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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 05, 2016 09:00 PM Chengdu foggy, Chengdu smoggy...
Chengdu, the capital city of Sichuan province has 4 millions inhabitants. Here I am! The last expensive way to get from the airport to the city is to take the air shuttle bus no.1 in front of the terminal 2 (10 yuan) and go to the gast stop at Mishun hotel. Then change to the subway line 1 and go anywhere. SybwY and buses in Chengdu cost already 2 yuan per ride. The subway impressed me - very modern, with glass doors to the train, but the number of English subtitles is miserable... I disembarked at Wenshu and took a 20 min walk to MIX hostel. It is well-organized institution, but a little cramp. Single with shared bath costs here 80 yuan, but they did not mentioned that the bath is upstairs. So I am walking now up and down. Bring your towel - they do not provide them even to the private rooms!
It is already spring here - warm days. But as in such a big city I suffer a lot of smog. In the afternoon I found the big department store. I found there bread (5,80 for 450g loaf) eggs for 6 jao each and other eatable goods. But be careful - the price on display is not for 1 kilo but for 500 g! That's how the want to attract the buyers. Capitalism is already also in China...
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Mar 04, 2016 09:00 PM Jade Mountain Monastery
Can you imagine? Being in China in the traditional Chinese mansion, enjoying cherry tree in blossom I was listening to the tunes of my favoelomployeeseomposer – Chopin! My hosts have a huge collection of several thousands of CDs. They wanted to make me happy… Thank you! It is Saturday – free day today. After Chinese breakfast under thegcherry tree (little boiled bread balls filled with peanut and sesame) Julia & David decided to go with me to the bottom of Yulong mountain to show me traditional village of Naxi people living around Lijiang. They built their houses using mud and stone. The village still looks like centuries ago. Finally they left me at the Tibetan Monastery of the Red Hat sect. The name is very poetic: Jade Peak Monastery. In the gate they wanted me to pay 80 juan entry fee. I was staing there almost an hour looking at the people going through. More then 150 people passed through the gate. Nobody was controlled and asked to buy the ticket. Only me, because I look like the foreigner! That’s discrimination!
But I entered monastery anyway – to see there praying halls and famous Sacred tree of 10000 camelia flowers. I am not sure if there are 10000 flowers but it is the fact that the tree is more the 500 years old. It was saved during the Cultural Revolution by the monk, who risking his life was bringing the water to keep it alive. His portrait is there on display.
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Mar 03, 2016 09:00 PM Cherry Lodge in Lijiang
They offer daily direct bus from Tiger Leaping Gorge to Lijiang. It will cost you 55 yuans and on the way it is worth to have a seat on the left side of the bus for the nice views of the snowy mountains.
In Lijiang I decided to stay in Cherry Inn. Since the address was unclear (that's China!) I asked somebody to make the telephone call and they were so nice to come and pick me up. Before we arrived to their place I recognized that it is some 6 kms from the main attractions of the historic city. Uuuuu! But I changed my mind when I saw traditional Chinese mansion with a cherries blossoming in the courtyard.
In addition they offer free drop off in the city. English is spoken and the hosts have the deep knowlege about local culture. Great place to fee local style of life! And in the morning you will see the sun rising over the mountains right from your window!
Lijiang is one of the most interesting places in Yunan province. Naxi people live here and they preserve their customs and culture. The complex of the old town is now on the list of UNESCO World Heritage. Imagine kilometers of narrow, cocobbled streets, stone bridges on the channels bringing water from the mountains and wooden, beautifully carved houses.
They charge hefty 80 yuans for the entrance to the old city, but if will come early you have a chance to buy for this money two good dinners :)
The sun was strong and I was wandering 3 or 4 hours in this fascinating labirynth looking like the silversmiths make their rings, like they produce local sweets and how the pretty ladies pose for the pictures in the national costumes. Another great day!
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Mar 02, 2016 09:00 PM Hiking the Tiger Gorge
Chinese legend says that desperated tiger escaping the hunter jumped through the rough Jinsha river at the place where it is only 25 m wide. In addition the huge boulder lies here in the middle of the river (they call it Tiger Stone). Now it is the main tourist attraction. Buses full of Chinese tourists are coming here - to the place called Upper Rapids. It is close to the main road in Qiaotou... The place offers great view, but to be closer to the river you have to take the solid stairs - about 200 m down. Few tourists decide to go down the gorge to see middle and lower rapids. I did. There is a nice mountain road sneaking some 300 mabove the river offering many great views and the traffic on this segment is minimal. Ambitious people took the trail - path going above the road, but this sulution offers rather the views og the surrounding peaks and walls then the views of the river. It took me full day to walk from the Upper Rapids to the lower ones where I live in Tibet GH. But what a day!
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Mar 01, 2016 09:00 PM Tiger Leaping Gorge
Do you like the marvels of the nature? This is the place for you!
It took me 2 hours and 35 yuans for bus ticket to get from Shangri La to the little village of Qiatou. Then I made a call to the chosen Tibet Guest house and 30 minutes later we were driving to the gorge. At the beginning we stopped at the nat. Park desk and I was forced to pay 65 yuan entry fee. :( plus 20 yuans for minibus transfer to the guesthouse.
Tiger Leaping Gorge has an opinion to be one of the most deep and picturesque gorges in the world. It is 16 kms long. Since few years there is paved mountain road going along the Jinsha River some 200-300 above. Tibet Guest House (booked via booking.com) was very good choice. Very nice location - facing the gorge and huge mountain. Completly empty before the season, reliable staff. And traditional Tibetan architecture with lovely terrace and verandah.
As for such attractive lacation the price for the room is very reasonable: 50 yuans for upstairs room with shared bath or 100 for downstairs ensuite. It is only 2000 m above sea level here, I took a breath and go for my first walk - to the end of the gorge. It took me 2 hours each way, up and down, but the views were great.
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Feb 29, 2016 09:00 PM Little Potala?
On the outskirts of Shangri La, hidden in the side valley there is Tibetan monastery of Sumtseling. To get there you have to board city bus no 3 (only 1 yuan). There will be surprise at the end of the route: the bus will stop at the big building, security guy will enter and they will take all tourists off. The bus will go onward to monastery with the local people...
You have to buy ticket in the big building for hefty 150 yuan, then on the other side of the building you will board specian tourist bus and it will take you to the monastery gate. I was very much impressed when I saw Sumtselling for the first time.
In front of the monastery there is little lake - you can walk around in 40 minutes enjoying the reflection. I cross the gate, then there are long stairs up to the main terrace, quite an effort on the level of 3200 m.
On the main terrace the monks were conducting ceremonies blowing horns and making offerings - what an interesting event - they allowed to take pictures (forbidden inside the temples).
I spent more the 2 hours visiting the temples one by one. Can you imagine 4-strey high statue of Tsongkhapa?
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Feb 28, 2016 09:00 PM The mythic Shangri La
Do you know the "Lost horizon"? Or the black & white movie based on this story? It is the fiction, but who didn't dream about the isolated from the world valley of happiness where the people live 120 years and more? Here they came to the conclusion that the valley around the town of Zhondian looks most like Shangri La and... changed the city name to Shangri La. For commercial reason of course. :) Here I am!
I stay in Shangri La in the old mansion - old city area. Just 200 m up o the hill there is Temple of the 100 Chicken. Funny name - isn't it? After the big fire of 2014 they are now restoring shops, stylish restaurants, guest houses. I am on the level 2300 m so it was not easy to climb tge stairs to the temple. But it is worth - not only for two ornate temple buildings but also for the unusual prayer wheel some 15 m high - I didn't see such a huge wheel before.
Nights are very cold and the only good think is that they provide electric blankets. Sorry, beds are Very hard. After days of rice and noodles I found round the corner little Tibetan bakery - smaller bread costs 10 y, big one - 20 y. Bon apetit!
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Feb 27, 2016 09:00 PM 3600 m above sea level
Deqin, China. The doorstep of Tibet. You can see many people in Tibetan clothes. Early in the morning I start to hitchhike on Yunan-Tibet highway trying to get to Feilai Si – little Tibetan monastery, which is 10 km away. Taxi drivers wanted 40 yunas each way. I was surprised – in this remote corner of China hitchhiking is surprisingly good! First I Visited Little monastery, which lies below the highway. Nice place, but from here you cannot see the main attraction of the area: the ridge with the holy mountain Kawa Karpo. The magnificent view opens about 1 km west where they built recently many hotels. I was excited, the view is breathtaking. But they try to make a bbusiness on it. On the left side of the road they built the big terrace, put a fence, an they charge 150 y entry fee “to the national park”. Do not be stupid – take the pictures from the gate! The all range was in white – unforgettable view.
The mountain Kawa Karpo (Chinese: Meili Xue Shan) 6740 m is one of the most important sacred mountains in eastern Tibet. Kawa Karpo is part of a larger mountain range with 13 prominent summits. The mountain range has the name Taizi Shisan Feng (Mountain range of the 13 princesses). The highest peak, which is also named after the mountain god Kagebo, is seen as a perfect pyramid from many sides.
An ancient pilgrim route leads around the Kawa Karpo mountain range.
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Feb 26, 2016 09:00 PM On the doorstep of Tibet
Oh, yes - this was lucky day... The morning flight departed on time. Before landing in Shangri La I had opportunity to enjoy the panoramic view of the snowy mountains. Shangri La has new air terminal in Tibetan-like style. I was running through expecting that there will be city bus waiting in front of the stylish building. Nothing like that! Expensive taxis only (40y). But there were people vith little van collecting Tibetan monk from the same flight and they offer me free lift to the bus station. It took us about 20 minutes to cross the legendary city - I will be back here!
-I want to buy the ticket to Deqin!? - no problem - the lady in the window sold me the ticket for 58 yuans. Bus is departing at 10.30... It was around zero Celsius, but lovely sun was shining when I was waiting with other passengers in the courtyard of the bus station. Well, it is China... The bus was 1,5 hours delayed, but I was still happy.
We started to climb the mountains. Yunnan - Tibet highway offers wonderful views. Now I know that this segment (Shangri La - Deqin) can be added to the most beautiful mountain roads. We were climbing to the snows... The highest pass is on the level 4292 m! On the western side of the pass even more snow, but the road was passable. What a journey for just 9 US dollars!
We reached Deqin (they pronounce [decin] after 4,5 hours. Deqin is the last settlement before the border of Tibet. It lies in the valley, but still on 3500 m above sea. Deqin has strong Tibetan flavor... I found warm room in the hotel 200 m from bus station and in the eatery nearby ordered for 9 y a plate of my favorite dumplings. No, I cannot go west into Tibet - foreigners are not allowed to travel this route, even with the local escort. And that's why so few tourists are coming via this fantastic road!
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Feb 25, 2016 09:00 PM Little detour - Kunming
Just let you know, that Chinese superpower few years ago blocked access from China to my private website - I do not know why. My new diary was accessible during last few days, but today I cannot connect to it, so maybe the superpower decided to block also my travel log on kontynenty.net If this is true I will be able to publish there when I'll move back to Malaysia on March 9th. As you can see GS access is not blocked (yet) :)
In the morning in Chengdu aiport I saw that the only flight to Kangding was cancelled again, so my decision of rerouting was right: I bought new ticket and now I am already in Kunming/Yunan. I was here years ago so it if just a stopover. A chonce to adjust to the altitude -it is 1900 m here and I feel it. Tomorrow morning I will fly onward - close to the border of Tibet. See the Kunming airport imposing terminal on the picture.
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