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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Jan 30, 2010 07:00 PM Hiking the Atacama hills...
There is a little museum in San Pedro. In front of the museum they installed interesting ¨Traffic light¨ - it shows the strenght of UV radiation. Today there is veven more then red light: blue light is flashing - it means the UV radiation is extreeme! Do not forget your high-factor sun screen coming here!
Sunday. 2000 people live in San Pedro but only like 100 attended the only Sunday mass. Interesting celebration anyway!
I took a walk to the entry of the oasis, then I climbed the hill with a white cross expecting the nice panoramic view. Yes - the view is great! But what a heat! On the cross I found the plaque dedicated to Juan Pablo II - the Pope from Poland. We are very proud of him...
If you are heat-resistant you can rent a bike (6000 pesos per day) or a horse to see the picturesque places around. The most popular day minibus tour to the lagoons cost 20000 pesos)
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Jan 29, 2010 07:00 PM Hot, bright sun of Atacama...
San Pedro. Why I am here again? First - I think that it is one of the most picturesque regions in Chile - worth to visit again. Second - it is locaded close to the point where the borders o Aggentina, Chile and Bolivia meet. I am headind to the unknown part of Bolivia and the most intersting trail goes just via San Pedro...
So far I try to adjust to the high altitude. It is very dry here (gentelmen - bring also your transparent lipstick). You have to drink a lot of water (2.5 l bottle cost 1100 pesos, they pay here 510 pesos for USD) But I as ussual boil tap water every morning and evening - this give me a chance to save some money.
The big attractions of the region are geysers and salt lagoons of wonderful colors. Some of them I saw years ago. Tours are offered at every corner, but they are expensive - at least for the backpacker. I wanted to go for a day to Tara Lagoon and Cathedral Rocks - they wanted me to pay 38.000 pesos -like 75 USD! Sorry! Instead I took a local bus for 1000 to the little pueblo of Toconao to see San Pablo churs and Jere oasis hidden in the little gorge (1500 pesos entry fee)... Hot, but nice day!
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Jan 28, 2010 07:00 PM San Pedro de Atacama
In the morning from the bus window I saw the Atacama Desert around. We crossed Domeyko Range (Ignacy Domeyko was Polish Scientist and Explorer working in Chile in the 19th century - pleasure for me to see this ¨Polish¨ range again...). It was almost midday when we reached the San Pedro oasis...
I have been here some 15 years ago... This is very hot but very nice place on the altitude of Polish highest peak - Rysy -2450 m above sea level. Walk slowly carrying your backpack!
San Pedro is very tourist place. There is a lot of small residenciale and hostales but it does not that it is easy to find cheap accommodation. I advice you to book in advance or to come by the early bus. I left my backpack in the first full hostel and wonder around for the best place. And I found it: it is very quite Residencial Vilacoyo, Tocopilla St 387. Single room with shared bath cost ne 8000 pesos and believe me - it is hard to find something cheaper. San Pedro is more expensivie then 15 years ago. In Santiago 1 hour of internet cost 600 pesos - here it is 1000.
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Jan 27, 2010 07:00 PM Cama was too short for me...
I spent last night in Santiago in Aji Hostel, close to Salvador metro station. They are worth to recommend. Nice, young team work there. Every Wed evening they serve free pasta and glass of wine to their guests...
When I was for the first time in Chile years ago I was surprised that wine is cheaper then coca-cola! Now you pay 1000 pesos for the bottle of standard table wine - same price is the coke!
It was 11.50 am when I bosarded Tur-bus coach at Borja terminal. I paid for the cama seat - like the semi-couchette but once in the bus I recognized that their cama is for the people of the height of 160 cm or less. I am 182! So it was not worth pay for that comfort! Durind 24-hours trip (bus was 1 hour delayed) they served three times snack boxes but sorry - no coffe in the morning...
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Jan 26, 2010 07:00 PM 32 deg Celsius! South America.
My friends from Poland write me that there is minus 20 deg Celsius. It is hard to believe but I had today plus 32 deg in Santiago de Chile. My laundry was dry after just a few hours!!
Well... I want to escape from the heat to the mountains...
Chili is more then 4000 kms long north to south. Distances are huge...
Let you know that domestic flights are very expensive. LAN looks like to be a monopolist. For the flight from the capital to Calama they want 360 USD. I decided to go there by bus - it will be 23-hours ride for some 100 USD.
There is a choice of bus companies. Tour-bus and Pullman Bus have the best reputation. On the long distances they offer standard service but also sleeping versions:
semi-cama is like comfortable airplane chair /37000 pesos/
cama - with more space and your legs are on the chair /54000/
cama premium is like a chairr converrted for the night into couchette /64000p/
I bought the cama -class ticket for tomorrow. - even farther then Calama, because Tour-bus (as the only carrier) has direct service via Calama to San Pedro de Atacama. I hope to send you my next message from the Andes. Lets take a shower now! It makes me a bit cooler...
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Jan 25, 2010 07:00 PM Back in the hot Santiago the Chile
They wanted me to come to the pier on Robinson Crusoe Is at 8.30 am. It was windy but clear morning. Soon we started to sail by the little fishing boat around the island to the airstrip... From the eastern side the sea was OK. We passed one more time Puerto Ingles where the cave of the Robinson vel Selkirk is visible. Then on the western side we got a lot of high waves, spays and so on. It took us 1,5 hour to get to the Bahia del Padre where about a hundered fur seals were greeting us again... I had still almost an hour to hike the hill from the airstrip for the great view of the only sandy beach on the island - Arenal Beach. The picture with the little Santa Clara Island in the background will be nice!...
Little aircraft from Santiago landed at 11.30 bringing only 4 passengers and soon we started the return way. Sorry - this is not sightseeing flight so the beautiful island soon dissappeared. Two hours later I saw again foggy and smoggy Santiago. City bus 403 (400 pesos) took me to the hostel. It is time to make the laundry and to prepare for the next stage of the trip - that´s backpackers´ life! But what a island was it!
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Jan 24, 2010 07:00 PM Stormy Robinson Crusoe
Stormy weather, but the sun is shining over the island and the highest peak El Yunque - 915 m is easy visible. I plan for the afternoon the last possible trek - to the bottom of El Yunque (there are 4 trails from the settlement - not so well mantained by the National Park, I did three of them so far).
Tomorrow, if weather permits little plane will come from Santiago and I will fly back to the continent. Keep you finger crossed, please!
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Jan 22, 2010 07:00 PM Hiking Sendero Chile
I am still on Robinson Crusoe Island. The island is 22 kms long but they have only 400 m of paved road - in the settlement. To go aroung the island they use their little boats.
There is a famous trail Sendero Chile going from the airstrip to the settlement via the pass of Mirador Selkirk. I took it today. To get back to the airstrip I took a little open boat transporting lobsters. Weather was windy and I was spayed many times by the waves. We landed late - it was 1.30 pm when I started my solo walk. First part look me through arid and sandy areas of Tierras Blancas, great views and strong wind! At 5 pm steep climb to the pass. And great view to the both sides of the island from the Mirador Selkirk, They say that from this point Robinson vel Selkirk was wathing the ocean for ships passing by... After 6 hours non-stop walk I reached San Juan Bautista at 7.30 pm
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Jan 20, 2010 07:00 PM Climbing the cliffs...
My third day on Robinson Crusoe Island. I am surprised: only 600 people live here - all of them iin the only settlement of San Juan Fernandez. Ther cats the lobsters and fish - these are the main sources of income. Tourism seems to be the other one but so far I saw only four tourists on the island - I am the fifth one! Almost all surface is the National Park and recognized Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. There are trails goin up to the mountains - The highest peak has 915 m above the sea level. I was climbing Cerro Salsipuedes overlooking the bay where San Juan Bautista lies. It took me 1.5 sweaty hours each way but he views from the ridge and the cliff on the other side were fantastic. I plane next excursion for tomorrow... The only problem is that is is hard to predict the weather - it is very changeable: it was raining in the evening and I saw the rainbow over the bay before sunset.
In the tiny city library there are two computers and you are free to put your name on the list and browse the internet. Unfortunately computers are very slow and connection brokes are very often...
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Jan 19, 2010 07:00 PM Robinson Island - info for future travelers
Trying to arrange my travel to the distant Robinson Crusoe Island I was sending e-mails few month ahead to Armada de Chile and Lassa Airlines. No response. Then I made several phone calls from Poland to Chile. The people on the other side of the line did not speak any English. It was very hard way to comunícate regarding my poor Spanish… Now, staying on the island I know all I needed. And here I completed for you gold-worth, updated information about how to get to the island.
1. Last expensive way: Chilean Navy three times a year send from Valparaiso to the island navy supply ship. Capacity for the passengers is 150 or 70 if they send smaller one. February, June, December – but the dates changes. One-way price for the foreigners was 27000 pesos. Takes 27 hours to RC. Local people have priority to board.
2. Little private freighter *Antonio* sails once per month with food, construction material etc from Valparaiso to RC island. Now officially Antonio cannot take passengers for security reasons, but I have good news - they are just adopting few cabins to be used for 10 pax. They will be ready in April 2010 –they say – this could be a great chance for you since *Antonio* stays like 5 days on the island so you can visit RCI and come back. Contact: www.transmarko.cl
3. Lassa airline (desperated, I took their expensive flight) has no competitors. They send their 7-seater usually on Tue and Fri 9 am. You can try also ATA airline – less frequent – they carry local people on the govt subsidized flights – good luck: www.aerolinasATA.cl
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