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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Apr 06, 2009 02:00 PM Kathmandu after years...
It was horrible night. The bus was crampy and old TATA junk. The road was bumpy and the people on the bus was not gently... It was not possible to sleep on board. -You must understand that you are carrying people, not potatoes!- I said to the driver during the first break. He was laughing, for him it was a joke...
We entered Kathmandu after 13 hours - at sunrise. My backpack was very dirty... Be happy you are here - on the lowlands they are on strike very often and then the roads are blocked! - said my neighbour. I took a little taxi to Thamel, found the quite hotel and took a shower...
Cup of coffee and then walk to the Durbar Square - the heart of the town. How is Kathmandu after 25 years? Sorry, it is not nicer! It is noisy, dusty, crowded and polluted. Many people wear face masks to avoid the smoke in the narrow streets... Sorry... The hit of the day was a walk to the Tibetan stupa in Bodnath - just few kms away - it is little enclave of the peace in the capital of Nepal... I prefere my first image of Kathmandu...
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Apr 05, 2009 02:00 PM Leaving Sikkim... entering Nepal...
I booked again the front seat in the jeep going from Pelling to Siliguri in West Bengal. They charge 175 rupees for 5-hours trip down the mountains. In Sliliguri - an important tansport hub - cycle rickshaw took me to anoteher jeep station - those cars are heading to the border of Nepal (32 km - 50 rupees).
There is only one borded crossing in Kakarvitta - they left me in front of Indian immigrations post and escaped. It was already hot afternoon when I got my exit stamp in the passport, I put my pack on my back and started to walk through the long bridge on the dry river to Nepal. Uff...
They issue Nepal tourist visas on the spot - what you need is one picture, 30 USD and one form to fill - after 10 minutes I got my visa. Bank nearby will change the rest of your Indian rupees and dollars or euro.
Welcome to Nepal!
It is 150 m from the Neleese immigrations to the Kakarvitta bus terminal. I recognized that all buses to the distant Kathmandu depart at 5 pm. It is long, 13-hours ride and they do not want to deliver you in the middle of the night... I bought the ticket - 910 Nepaleese rupees and took a shower in the one of few little hotels neat the terminal... Only one shop offers bread... It will be another night on the bus...
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Apr 04, 2009 02:00 PM I saw again Kangchenjunga - the third peak of the world!
Sikkim. You must be lucky to see Kangchenjunga 8,586 metres. I woke up at 5.30 to cook my morning tea. Then I saw through my window above the clouds the long range of white peaks. Himalaya! The central one was Kangchenjunga - third summit after Everest and K2... The spectacle took about 30 minutes, then all was covered again by the mist...
It is good idea to make a day tour from Pelling to Yuksom - the first capital of Sikkim. I found 2 companions and it cost us 10 USD per head to go by jeep with a local driver to three nice waterfalls, sacred lake and Yuksom - little, nice village "when Sikkim was born". At leat we saw some thatched houses on the high slopes and also nice, white rivers - we crossed them by suspension bridges. At the end we visited old gompa and photographed the stone throne of the first Sikkim's king. Yuksom is more atmospheric then Pelling, but you will not see Himalaya from this place...
Cold evening, brrrr... But it sems that the last one in the high mountains...
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Apr 03, 2009 02:00 PM Road to the clouds...
Sikkim. It was early morning when I said bye-bye to misty Gangtok. Our jeep was full - always try to buy a ticket a day before - you will not be cramped in the back seats... The price for the front is the same but you have here more space for the legs and a chance to take a pictures.
Narrow, but paved road was climbing mountains, up and up... to the clouds. Then little village, descent to the bridge in the valley and climbing again - more then 5 hours...
We reached Pelling in the mid-day. It is not a season so I found easily a nice room with the view from balcony for just 400 rurpees.
In the afrernoon I took a long walk to the nearest gompa - Tibetan monastery and to the ruins of Rabandtsee - the socond capital odf Sikkim (17th-19th century).
People come to Pelling mostly for the view of Mt Kangchanjunga - the third mountain of our world. Today the sky was covered by clouds. Lets wait till tomorrow...
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Apr 02, 2009 02:00 PM Tibetan monasteries and flowers of Sikkim
It is hard to find in Gangtok a flat going street. You are always going up or down. Most of the streets are very steep. And - can you imagine - it is very good exercise if you carry 20 kilo backpack!
Probably the only exception in MG Marg - wide walking-only street in the heart of the town with fancy shops and Sikkim Tourist office.
The best method to wisit the hilly are around is to rent a car with a driver. After bargaining I paid 800 rupees for 6-hours private tour. The highight were Tibetan Monasteries of Rumtek and Lingdum. The first one is the place where Karmapa - the leader of Black Hats sect should reside. For political reasons he is not there but mosatery still is very important and keeps the atmosphere...
Then I visited waterfall, Chuten Stupa and finally - Sikkim Flower Exhibition with orgy of colors and smells...
I saw handicraft emporium, but truly - it is hard to find in Gangtok any local folklore. Tomorrow I am heading by jeep (buses are unknown on this mountain routes) to Pelling in the West Sikkim (6 hours -150 rupees per head) - hoping to fing there remains of the old days...
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Apr 01, 2009 02:00 PM Sikkim in the mist...
I arrived to Sikkim. It was independent kingdom until 1975 - like Bhutan it was considered one of the last Himalayan Shangri Las.... How it looks like now?
It took me 4 hours driving in the mist by jeep from Darjeeling to reach the capital city - Gangtok. On the way there was check point at the border - passports and permits of the foreigners were controlled there and registered.
Road became much better then. And Gangtok appeared like a large Indian town on the slopes of the mountain.
I found Sikkim more expensive then Dar - the small room in Travel Lodge costs me 500 rupees. In the afternoon I climbed the hill to the Enchey Gompa - the oldest capital's monastery. Then I took a long walk along the ridge to the former Royal Palace (sorry - closed for visitors). Then there was a nice surprise: I found the gate to Tsula Khang - former Royal Chapel - now a monastery - and I had opportunity as the only guest to see the ceremonies in the temple - young monks were playing traditional instruments - I had a great time...
Now it is the time to order my favourite Tibetan dish - momo dumplings (just 15 rupees per plate) and to have a rest - tomorrow there will be another busy day! I hope that the mist will go down...
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Mar 31, 2009 02:00 PM View of the Himalaya...
Yes, today in the morning the sky was almost clear and I saw from the roof terrace majestic and snowy Himalaya range!
Darjeeling where I stay has plenty of steep, narrow streets... It is a bit tiring to walk around - also because of less oxygen in the air.
I took a walk to the oldest gompa: Bhutia Busty Tibetan Monastery - you cannot go there by car, walking only. Location is nice and since few people go there it is well worth a visit.
Then I visited Happy Valley Tea Plantation - 25 percent of Indian teas comes from Darjeeling so it was worth to see how the production looks like... Interesting...
I am heading to Sikkim. Before I have to arrange a travel permit to this former kingdom. It is free. I visited two offices - quite far walk and now my permit is ready. It is time for the rest and preparations to the tomorrow's departure by shared jeep... It cost only 130 rs to Gangtok!
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Mar 30, 2009 02:00 PM 2nd class to Darjeeling...
Lonely Planet is not updated again: the morning train with steam locomotion from Kurseong to Darjeeling do not operate any more. They introduced another one at 3 pm.
Why I want to travel via this hilly railroad? Because it gives very attractive views and gives you the idea how they travelled here more then 100 years ago. UNESCO put this narrow-gauge railway on the world heritage list.
It is also comfortable and dirty cheap if you travel in the 2nd class: the ticket cost me 23 rp - like half of the dolar...
I saw the steam train: it arrived at 1 pm with 2 carriages only - it really looks like a toy!... I have nice pictures.
But... the locomotion generates plenty of smoke - it is picturesque but not very pleasant if you seat is at the open window... That's why I decided to take diesel version departing from Kurseong at 1.30 pm.
Great views on the way, tea plantations, and the other attraction is that in the villages train goes through the main streets - since it goes like a snail you have enough time ti look into the shops, workshops and stalls...
We arrived to Darjeeling late afternoon. I found the cheap room at new Tranquility Hotel up on the hill with grat view. Recommended! The owner invited me for the meal since the businesses close early here - it is more then 2000 m above the sea level and evenings are cold....
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Mar 29, 2009 02:00 PM By Indian railways and junky bus...
It is a great deal to travel around India by rail! They have now computerized reservation system, prices are resonable and they are almost on time...
I just used this mode to travel by experess train from Assam to New Japalnaguri in the West Bengal. Second class berth for 6 hours-400 kms travel cost me 700 rs- like 15 USD. Breakfast and lunch on board was included.
Then I took motocycle rickshaw to the bus terminal in Siliguri. Siliguri is a gateway for travel to Darjeeling and Sikkim.
I wanted to use famous toy train to go to Darjeeling but I decided to board this train in Kurseong - to skip the less attractive part of 8-hours jouney.
Lonely Planet is not updated: I was waiting for the bus not 30 min but 1,5 hour. We also departed with 30 min delay (it is India...) The road goes all the time along the narrow raiway track. Views are the same, but the bus is faster. It is also less comfortable, cramped and the road is bumpy after first 10 kilimeters. I reached Kurseong - little town on the mountain slopes in the dark and mist... Night in Delhi Durbar Hotel cost me 300 rs - they will bring you bucket of hot water to have a bucket shower. Do you know what is bucket shower? :)
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Mar 28, 2009 07:00 PM Guwahati - the capital of Assam
In the mid-day I arrived to Guwahati. The capital of Assam province lies on huge Brahmaputra river. It has more then million inhabitants, crowded streets and interesting state museum. But the highligt of the place is Kamakhaya Mandir - the temple located on the hill above the city. It is dedicated to the first wife of lord Shiva - Sati. People come here to pray for fertility.
I spend more then an hour in this temple wandering around plocal people paying, offering, resting... There are also animals - nobody cares about them.
I had there a great time. Photographs are allowed. But if you want go inside the temple you have to buy a ticket (Like wealthy locals do) or stay for hours in the long line.
I have access to the internet - in Guwahati it costs 25 rs per hour. Tomorrow I plan to take a train to West Bengal Hills.
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