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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 08, 2023 10:00 PM I crossed the Green Line..
Since the collapse of the Berlin Wall there is only one capital city which is divided by two: it is Nocosia, the capital of Cyprus. Today in the morning I took the bus from Larnaca, where I live to Nicosia. Round trip to ticket (they call it day ticket) costs 7 euro and the journey takes 1 h 15 min, if no traffic jams. I landed at the city walls of Nocosia. Benetians ruled here in 16th century. They build around the city ideally circular chain of the ealls with 11 bastions. If fotographed from the air it reminds a snowflake. Funny and unusual! I took a walk along the walls. Imagine, that regular street goes now on the top of the wall! It was worth to stop at Famagusta Gate - one of four old city gates. Then I was crawling narrow street of the old town, visiting couple of orthodox churches, photographing abandoned mosques. Imagine that in the heart of old Nicosia they just built enormous church with bright iconostasis...
There is only one border crossing to North (Turkish) Nicosia open for walkers and bikers only. It is north of Pafos gate. They call it Lodra Palace passage. In the nicely restored palace now reside UN soldiers who stay in the buffer zone. Passport control on both sides, no crowd. I crossed the Green Line - as the locals call the demarcation zone. There are many abandoned, destroyed houses in this zone - the view is depressing...
The image of North Nicosia is not as bright as in the south. But apart from the bazaar I foun one intereresting places: two caravanserais housing now shops, galleries and restaurants. The huge church of St Sophia, converted by Ottomans into mosque is under restauration.
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Mar 07, 2023 10:00 PM Pottery from Larnaca
Best wishes for all charming ladies on the occasion of the International Women's Day!
Every Wednesday at 10 am the Tourist Office of Larnaca offers free walking tour of the town with the guide. I decided to join such a tour today because local guides usually have great knowledge about places. Old lady took us through the labyrinth of the narrow streets pointing the most interesting places and the free Medical Museum. But the highlight of the tour was the visit in the pottery workshop where the master demonstrated the production process of the dishes. On our eyes he made so called Pitagoras cup - a cup vacuum pumping off all the liquid from inside when the initial level exceed defined amount. So funny!
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Mar 06, 2023 10:00 PM Walk to Cape Greco
Another sunny day! I took an intercity bus from the Lar naca beachfront to Aiya Napa. It cost only 7 euro for the day ticket=round trip. It is some 45 kms to drive, bot it took us more than an hour to the to the monastery stop. Only in 1974 Aiya Napa was a small fishing village. Now the monastery is closed, asking for restauration but around there are plenty of luxury hotels, bars and restaurants... I took a long, 8-km walk to the Cape Greco - the southeasternmost point of Cyprus. On the exit from the town near Marina Hotel I found interesting sculpture park. and then... The road is good, but the hitching is very hard!.
I reached Cape Greco anyway. Just before the sunset the lighting was nice. I was surprised - the cape is not on the high cliff but on the flat rock! Actually it is not possible to go to the point because this area is fenced - restricted for the lighthouse. It was still a great, tiring day and unusual place!
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Mar 04, 2023 10:00 PM Sunny Cyprus...
I have neen here already with my son Adam. 28 years ago! Cyprus today isore or less the same. After heavy militarized and suspicious Israel is like sample of liberty. I took a long walk, visiting the centre of Larnaca. It's fort on the beach and netx to: the Grand Mosque (not too big in fact). The most impressive landdmark is St Lasarus church with a bright iconostasis and silver sarcophagus housing the remains of the saint. From there I took a 5-kms walk to the aqueduct on the outskirts of the town. Few tourists go there, but it is worth to see: about 500 m long and well-restored. See the picture! Then again 5-kms walk to my pension threugh the peripheral streets with prange trees aroun small houses... A 1-litre box of Spanish wine cost just 2 euro. I think I deserved it, especially after "dry" Israel! :)
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Mar 03, 2023 10:00 PM Flight delayed 2,5 hours..
Saturday or Sabbath in Jerusalem. Imagine that I found inexpensive solution to go to the airport! Here is the message worth at least 60 USD: on Ben Yehuda 23 (pedestrian street) upstairs there is shuttle agency operating also in Sabbath. Go there the day before, give address and they will pick you up on time. Payment - 66 NIS cash only directly to the driver of the van.
It took us almost an hour to reach airport. Let you know that different controls took there at least another hour. Be early!
Ironically my wizz flight to Larnaca was delayed 2,5 hours. I landed on Cyprus only before 5 pm. Immigration is easy. I went then to the upper (departure) level, turned left and there is the bus stop of 425 bus going to the center of Larnaca. One ride costs 2 euro paid to the driver _ cash euro only! The bus goes slowly, sneaking on the way so it was already dusk when I reached the door of my pension. Welcome to Cyprus!
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Mar 02, 2023 10:00 PM Last walk through Jerusalem...
Millions pilgrims and soldiers through the ages walked the cobbled streets of this magic city. I am the one... But in the morning I visited the grocery market just off the Jaffa Street. Prices are lower here (kilo of bananas 5-6 NIS) and it is important to make shopping because on the evening everything will be closed due to Sabbath.
Then I took the walk to the parliament building. It is isoloted, but the menorah monument is wirth to see. Israel museum is just nearby (55 NIS entry fee).
After a long walk I found myself in front of Damascus Gate to see the enormous crowd of Arabs swimming out of the Old City.
It is Friday - holy day for the Muslims and they just finished their praying in the Mosque on the Rock. So interesting!
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Mar 01, 2023 10:00 PM Dead Sea & Masada
When I was in Israel years ago I was swimming in the over-salted Dead Sea, but I did not have enough time to visit Masada. Today in the morning I went to the central bus station in Jeru. On the info window they printed for me great weekly timetable for the green bus 486 going there. But they do not sell paper tickets! You have to buy electronic card for 5 NIS cash only and then load on the card 32 NIS for round trip ticket. Could be cash or credit card. We departed at 9 am heading to Allenby Bridge, but turning right before it. The road goes along the Dead Sea. The only attraction on the way in the deserted landscape is En Gedi oasis with palms and lush vegetation. Then nice mountains on the right side and turquoise, hazy Dead Sea on the left. We reached Masada after 1,5 hour drive.
What is Masada? It is fortres in the ruin, located on the 300-m high lonely mountain. Just after Christ Israeli rebels were defendin Masada attacked by Roman legions. They lose, but for Jews Masada remains heroic place. And it is on the UNESCO World Helitage List. You can use cableway to get up (77 NIS round trip or 44 one-way) If you want to climb the comfortable path in the heat (approx. 50 min each way) you still have to pay 33. Strange! Great views from the top and good explanation of the ruins - allow at least one hour on the upper level! Absolutely worth to see!
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Feb 28, 2023 10:00 PM Climbing Mount Olives
Sunny day in Jerusalem. I started my walk under the walls of the old town heading first to Zion Gate. There are interesting places to visit near Zion Gate: room of the Last Supper and King David Tomb. The tomb is especially interesting because Hassids are praying there in their traditional dressing. Then I wal walking to Dung Gate and onward - to Valley of Kidron to see enormous necropolis with the outstanding tomb of Abshalom. On the other side of the valley there is Mount Olives with famous Gethsemane chirch at the bottom. If you are fit you can climb steep street to the great viewpoint offering the best panoramic view of Jerusalem. On the top of Mt Olives there is Pater Noster church but it was closed till 2 pm. The view was great... The descent less impressive... :). It is also possible to ride a bis to the top... Uff, hot, but interesting day!
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Feb 27, 2023 10:00 PM Wandering 0ld Jerusalem
This is the city of 3 religions, one of the most interesting cities of the world regarding the history. It was sunny morning when I war walking to the Jaffa Gate dominated by the Tower of David - the most impressive part of the Jerusalem city walls. Once inside narrow and atmospheric David street took me to the Western Wall - holliest place for Jews. They are coming here to pray at the wall of their destroyad temple. On the other side of the wall is famous Dome of the Rock Muslim temple. Foreigners are alloved to visit this guarded area only from 12.30 to 13.30. It is worth to wait to get there on the wooden bridge from Western Wall area. Golden dome on the blue walls of the temple are very impressive... Only Muslim can go inside - to pray. Then I was following Via Dolorosa yo the Catholic Church of the Holy Sepulchre... Very spiritual day!
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Feb 26, 2023 10:00 PM By train to Jerusalem...
It took me an hour walk to reach Hahagana train station - closest to Yaffa. I crossed many small, busy streets enjoying the everyday views of Tel Aviv. The station was also small, but at the entrance security screened all luggages. A ticket for 40- minutes journey to Jerusalem costs 24 NIS. No senior discounts for the foreigners! They respect only their own seniors... The only station on the route was Ben Gurion airport! Then I saw through the window hills dotted by many white stones and darkness of tunnels. Jerusalem station is deep underground and you need to use lift to get to the daylight.
I went out and I sew the different city than 32 years ago: they destroyed stoney houses with iron balconies and built modern high buildings... Uuuu... And the works are still on!
Just opposite Navon train station you will find Central Bus station packed with shops. I was walking another half an hour along Yafo and King George streets to get to my Jeru Capsule Hotel. It has nice lobby with free tea & coffee, but that's all. Tomorrow I will stroll old Jerusalem...
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