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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Oct 05, 2020 08:00 PM Volcano on Volcano Island
Only 1 km away from Lipari Island (20 minutes by ferry - 5,50 euro each way) you will find high Volcano Island. The volcano, once very active now is sleeping, giving the opportunity to climb to the rim of former crater. That's what I did today. The weather in the morning was sunny. They checked my temperature when I was boarding the ferry. Half an hour later in Porto Levante on the other side of the strait I started my hike. Smoke on the top of the mountain was visible already from the port and I felt there also the smell of sulphur. There is only one way up and it is well marked so you do not need a guide. On the outskirts of the village you leave the asphalt turning left to the slope. Gravel path leads you in many zigzags to the lowest point on the crater rim (1 hour walk from the port). There is not only nice view of the carater (some 100 m deep) but also the panoramic view of the sea with the other Eolian Islands. You will see in the distance the conic shape of Stromboli, closer is Panarea, on the left is Salina with its two mountains and Lipari is right in front of you. Unfortunately it was already cloudy when I reached this point - I wish you to have the sun so the see around will be blue... :) OK, once of the rim you canhike onit to the highest point, having different angles for your pictures. I reached the summit 1,5 hours after departure from the ferry. I checked the altitude - it is 388 m above the sea. Then you have two options: to come back the same way or to continue anticlockwise on the rim passing the sulphur fumaroles. Smell, gas, yollow colour of the stones.... You will be coughing, crossing the hot ground, but it is an interesting experience...
First drops of the rain dropped down when I was taking pictures... Hurry! I started to hike down... No single shelter on the slope... I reached the port completely wet. But what the experience!
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Oct 04, 2020 08:00 PM Eolian Islands
From Milazzo there are two kinds of ferries sailing to Lipari (Eolian) Islands. The ride on the fast one to Lipari will cost you around 17 euro while the ticket for the slow one - only 12. I decided to take the slow one because I expected that it has an open deck to enjoy fresh breeze and take the pictures. Mistake! The big boat was completely closed!
Imagine that there were only 2 tourists aboard plus few locals....
After an hour at sea I saw the first island - Volcano, closest to Sicily. We left there few people and a car, sailing soon to Lipari, visible few kilometres away.
Lipari is the capital of the archipelago and the transport hub for six other islands. I landed in a small port located at the bottom of the huge castle. I found my accommodation in the labyrinth of the narrow streets, sometimes only 1 meter wide... Then I was climbing to the castle with 3 churches inside the walls. Cathedral of St Barth is the most imposing. Most of the buildings of the castle are occupied now by the museum. On the western side below the c castle is the old port of Marina Corta - very atmospheric place with a groups of local old men sitting and chatting hours and hours...
Lipari Islands are volcanic islands so tomorrow I plan to go and see some volcamic activity on the nearby Volcano Island. Unfortunately it was cloudy in the afternoon - I pray for the better weather tomorrow.
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Oct 03, 2020 08:00 PM Milazzo Peninsula - prickly pears
Everybody knows Taormina and Agrigento. But who knows Milazzo on the Sicily? This little port located on the 7- kms long peninsula is a base for the ferries heading to Eolian or Lipari Islands. That's my destination! I took a train to Milazzi station (unfortunately located 4 kms from the port) Then I shared the taxi to the town (Avoid travel in Italy on Sunday mornings - the bus driver still sleep). I found my accommodation (Milazzo Beach - a jewel! Sra Dominga broke my heart!) and... There is a huge castle built by Frederick the 2nd overlooking the long and empty pebble beach - it was nice walk in the sun. At the end of the beach you will find remote steps up to the top of the cliff. What a view from there! Then there is a dirty, overgrown path on the cliff heading to the cape....
Wow! Nobody knows it, I call it prickly pear's trail. So many cactus and fruits on them! See the picture... And the views from the cliff are extraordinaire! But better take good trekking shoes! The end of this trail is near antenna hill. Bush- breaking end...
I was walking onward by road to the end of the peninsula to find there parking lot with the cars of Sunday's Italian tourists. The strange lighthouse is not accessible there but you can take a comfy walk to the cape cliff. For me the prickly pear trail where I was alone was much more impressive!
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Oct 02, 2020 08:00 PM To Sicily....
The low-cost airlines still fly in Italy so I fly today with Volotea from Pescara to Catania for just 19 euro.
In Catania airport in front of the terminal there are 3 ticket kiosks for bus companies - there was the direct bus to Messina at 1.10 pm for 9,30 euro - I took it immediately!
The road goes along the coast - through many tunnels, but the weather is hazy... It was nicer , when I was here for the first time - in the 70-ties!
Messina... From the unimpressive railway station I took a long walk to my B&B passing the nice Cathedral Square (see cathedral on the picture) with the impressive clock on the tower - full of gold-platted fugures. Then there were coastal promenade withe the monument dedicated to Russian Seamen (!) and nice Neptune's Fouintain (but without the water) :)
Sorry, my B&B in Messina was poor - without working a/c (mosquitos arrived through the open window) without internet. It happen...
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Oct 01, 2020 08:00 PM Corno Grande - 2912 above the sea...
You know that I love the mountains. Today, in the sunny day I tried to climb go the top of Corno Grande - the highest peak of the Apenines.
It looks great at approach - see the picture. The trailhead is at the observatory on Campo Imperatore. It is disappointing : no maps, no info desk, no trail scheme. I started my walk at 9.30. Half an hour later I reached first pass - around 2300 m. On tbe other side of the pass first
wet snow appear. Snow was fresh - snowfall was few days ago. Not easy to go without crampons... views are great... After steep and risky climb I reached the ridge on the level 2500. Strong, icy wind here.. the panoramic views are great, but you should rather look where do you step. More snow... No chains, no security ropes... In the summer it could be OK, but today you can easily slide down.... Before final, steep climb to the summit I decided to give up. I do not beat any records and there is a limit of the risk I can accept. 2700 m - more than enough! . The descent was not so easy too... But what a views!
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Sep 30, 2020 08:00 PM Romantic Castle, medieval Santo Stefano...
Old Italian lady - funny owner of the bed & breakfast I stay in Sulmona had a mercy on me: for "included" breakfast instead few dried biscuits with jam she brought (after short explanation on Polish cuisine) from the shop few slices of ham and a flat rolls... I was feeling much better, starting today's journey... Soon I started to climb mountain roads, enjoying the views of the little townships located on the top of the hills. The main attraction of today's route was the romantic castle of Rocca Calascio - see the picture. Built on the level 1500 m in the 15th century offers great, 360 degrees panorama. The highest peak of the Apenines was also visible.
To reach the castello you must leave the car in the park and climb to the ruins by foot a bit more then 20 minutes... It is worth! The same mountain road took me later to San Stefano di Sessanio. This little town was founded by Medici family. It preserved medieval character - it is the stone labitynth without any inclusions... Restauration works are in progress... It will be a jewel for the next season! I stay at empty residence "Belvedere" enjoying really great view from my window and resting before tomorrow's heavy hike. :)
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Sep 29, 2020 08:00 PM High passes, canyon, snowy mountains - all in the sun!
Nights are cold in the mountains, but when the strong sun appeared today it is gets much warmer. At 9.30 am I was ready for departure. Soon my rented lancia ypsilon was climbing the narrow, mountain road heading to Scanno. From the pass on the way there were great view of the surrounding peaks. I must confess that very often I stop the car in the dangerous places to take the pictures. Shame on me! But the traffic on this roads is so weak that I decide to break the law :) Today the car of "carabinieri" were passing by, while I was taking video and they even didn't stop!
Picturesque little town of Scanno lies in the valley, close to the beautiful mountain lake. (on the picture) From the lakeside narrow road goes down to the deep and very impressive canyon. This canyon is the challenge for the driver... So many dangerous turns...
I was happy to drive back on the regular road to the old city of Sulmona, located at the bottom of snow-capped mountain range. Sulmona is a city of artists, and has really wide Piazza Maggiore, where local people promenade in the evening. Most of them in the masks...
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Sep 28, 2020 08:00 PM Hiking to Monte Tranquillo
Lovely sun since the morning! At 9.30 I was already on the trail - accompanied by a friendly white sheepherd dog. Can you kmagine that he was following me 7 hours - to the pass on the lewel 1717 m and back? OK. Italian mountain trails are marked, but it is very poor marking. Climbing to the Tranquillo I was forced to use GPS to find my way... just below Tranquillo there is a lonely, locked church Santa Madia de Monte Tranquillo with a great view. - see the picture. It took me 2,5 hours hiking to get there. But it is worth to continue the hike to the pass between Tranquillo and Pietrooro 1717 m to see the view of the range and the valley on the other side of the pass. I didn't see any path to the summit of Tranquillo. You can continnue the hike along the range, but remember that the next path down into the valley is after the 3rd peak... I returned home after 7 hours on the trail - tired but happy...
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Sep 27, 2020 08:00 PM It is raining in Apenine Mountains!
I spent the night in the lovely, Alpine-style, cozy hotel "Garni Astoria". It was nice to see the blue skies ovef the mountains from my balcony. But is was already cloudy when I was departing at 9 am. Uuuu... But the views were still great when I was driving down to Castel di Sangro (discounted supermarket is here to buy the food before going up to the villages) and then along Sangre river to the nice and long Lake Barrea - see picture. Village Barrea, overlooking the lake is very picturesque. Think about staying here for the night, if you will come here. Then I made a stopover in the little hill-village of Opi. The cobbled streets of Opi are really steep! They describe Opi as "borghi piu belli d'Itali" - one of the most beautiful townships in Italy. I liked especially flowers in the windows. At the top of the hill there is a viewpoint "belvedere" offering panorama of the valley. But it was raining and mountains were covered by clouds.
So I drove to Pescasseroli - little resort town, center of Parco Nazionale d'Abruzzo, Lazzio e Molise located on the level of 1200 m. Many trails go from here to the peaks and passes. In the park office they offer detailed map for 12 euro... Thank you... What I really want is a good weather for hiking. Maybe tomorrow?
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Sep 26, 2020 08:00 PM Back in the mountains...
Oksana, my friendly host for goodbye offered me a jar of her home-made jam. This is not an Italian behaviour! You have to have Slavic soul to be so generous to the stranger! Thank you my dear !
Driving initially in the direction of Napoli soon I turned left and started to climb the slopes of the Apenines. The road was empty on the Sunday morning so I stopped several times for the pictures, especially to photograph little, remote towns and settlements stuck to the green mountain slopes.
The only bigger town on the route was Castel di Sangro. Then the road became steep and I found myself on the level of the clouds...
In the middle of the mostly cloudy day I reached the historic town of Pesconstanzo. It is small, but has roman-baroque basilica Santa Maria del Colle. Sunday service was just going inside... There are more stylish houses in the narrow streets and Piazza del Municipio.
Rain arrived and I escaped to look for my accommodation for the night. I will sleep on the level 1400 m above the sea! Let's pray for the sunny weather for tomorrow :)
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