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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Dec 09, 2019 10:00 PM From the Andes to the Atlantic
Check your car, fill the fuel tank to the maximum, pock extra amount of the drinking water, start early... In Tacka village (yes, there is petrol station) we said goodbye to the legendary RN40 road heading east. Road 25 crosses Argentina west to east. it goes through uninhabited demi-desert territories to the coast of Atlantic. It is a long way... I was a little bit afraid reading about a number of the holes in this road.
Yes, first part to Paso de Indios was boring , even depressing. We saw one passing car only every 30 minutes and the landscape was monotonous. Many lonely, abondoned farm houses in the middle of nowhere. In the little, lonely settlement of Paso de Indios they have now the fuel... But after Paso till Las Plumas the landsczpe is like in Arizona with cliffs, rock formations, canyons. Great to see! Then after Plumas (some 20 kms of gravel detour there) RN25 bacame flat and semi-deserted again. We did it! After 9 hours we reached Puerto Madryn on Atlantic coast. RN 25 is in the better shape then I expected - they repaired many holes (but no bumps) but it is still the challenge...
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Dec 08, 2019 10:00 PM Snowy peaks, flowering roads, national park...
The southern exit from Bariloche is very spectacular: flowers on both sides of the road RN 40 and huge wall of the mountains in the front. Then we enjoyed three mountain lakes and finally the Virgen waterfall around 70 m high. Oit is possible to climb the primitive path to the bottom of the fall, but use the path on the right side of the stream!
Then we reached little town of El Bolson, once the Mecca of the hippies. It has spectacular location between high mountains. Legendary route 40 took us later to the semi-desert area and to Esquel. Esquel is located at the mountain full of colors. Twin room with breakfast in the hostel costs us just 12 USD.
In the afternoon we still had enough time to drive 40 kms to the Alerces National Park. The lakes & mts landscapes are the main attraction but I expected to see also huge and old alerce tree. There is one 2600 years old - they say. But to see it you have to catch 11am boat taking people to the other side of the lake.
Too late. Of course there are many smaller alerce trees spread uout in the park - you will see them, but with their miniature leaves they are not too impressive. Summary: not worth 150 kms RT drive and 400 pesos entry fee :)
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Dec 07, 2019 10:00 PM The route of the Seven Lakes
San Martin de los Andes is a little lovely town located at the end of the huge mountain lake. To appreciate the beauty of this location you can climb to the mirador (viewpoint) overlooking the town. By walk it could be 40 min each way. By car -10 min, but be prepared that half of the road is a bumpy gravel. After taking the great pictures we started to drive again Ruta 40 - the part which is famous as Camino de Siete Lagos. It is wort the fame - the road goes though the forested mountains to.the seven different lakes and an Impressive waterfall. It is about 150 kms to Angostura - we were enchanted by the beauty of the nature. Imagine blue sky, yellow flowers, snows on the peaks... From Angostura we were driving along the huge Lagos Angostura to Bariloche, making nany stopovers on the lakeside for breathtaking views. Years ago I was going along this road from Chile by bus with no possibility to stop... Bariloche seen after years looks even more fancy. Santa waits in front of the city hall to.be photographed with the tourists... 31 deg Celsius :)
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Dec 06, 2019 10:00 PM On the level of the snows...
We departed early. But there was a long line to wait for the petrol in the only YPF petrol station. No jokes... The next possible feeling station could be 300 kms away... Petrol is slightly cheaper here - we arealready in the Region of Patagonia: 47,50 pesos per litre.
Just after leving Chos Malal we were registered by the police and we crossed a long bridge on big Neuquen River - great opportunity for pictures. Then it was more than 100 kms through the semi-deserted hills. At Las Lajas we left for sometime our Ruta 40 heading by RN242 to the border of Chile. The was good decision: the landscape changed soon: lovely green pastures, flowers, picturesque araucaria trees. Highly recommended area. But we were climbing the same time to the snowfields of the Andes. Just before Argentine border control post it was necessary to turn left to RP23, and this was the beginning of the harsh gravel. Scenery for next 90 kms was fantastic, but the road ver challenging.... :)
-Finally we reached in the afternoon big Alumine Lake - it was like a mirror for the snowy peaks. Alumine village has nothing to offer but Alumine River Canyon we were going onward on the dusty gravel road has a lot of fantastic views. After full day of heavy driving we reached beaitiful little town of San Martin de los Andes at 7 pm. 450 kms only done today, but on the gravel it was still a challenge. Great day! So far the car has no damages. :)
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Dec 05, 2019 10:00 PM At the bottom of the Andes...
Sunny morning in Mendoza. The liter of petrol costs here 55 pesos - we filled the car tank to full to avoid problems in the countryside. It was 9 am when we started to drive the famous RN40 road... It goes all over the way south - at the bottom of the Andes. Till Tunuyan there were vineyards around and snow visible on the peaks reaching 5 to 6 thousands m above sea level. Then we found ourselves in the semi- desert. The most impressive part of this segment were the canyons around Rio Diamante crossing. See the views on the picture. Then we stopover for the meal in the green township od Malargue. RN40 took us again through deserted hills to Bardas Blancas. We crossed the bridge and... what a challenge! More than 110 kms driving on the stoney/ gravel road. Nice views of the Rio Grande river but I was really afraid about our tyres - no settlements on thd way to repair! We were lucky: with reduced speed I reached after 2,5 hours the bridge on Rio Barranca - the border of the Neuquen province. No single control in such a remote point... Good asphalted road took us up and down the mountains 150 kms away on the RN40 - to the town of Chos Malal - this was the first possible overnight point. We did today 655 kms, but the gravel segment should be multipled by 3 :) Good night from the bottom of the snowy Andes
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Dec 04, 2019 10:00 PM 643 kms to Mendoza
Wow! Blue sky. strong sun. We are driving west through the mountains of Argentina. First two hours we were climbing up to the Parador of Condor enjoying great panoramic views of the rocks, high slopes and deep valleys. There were nice waterfall "The tear of the Indio" right above the road. Then from the La Posta pass there were nice descent to the Mina Valley. Much more green here on the way to Dolores. In the afternoon we made a short stopover in the colonial city San Luis. The cathedral is under restauration , but Santo Domingo church is interesting and they two shady plazas with monuments and fountains.
Then finally we reached good highway no. 7 heading to Mendoza . Police and sanitary controls on the province border. They introduced highway fees - 80 plus 60 pesos on this segment. Hot day! More then 30 deg Celsius in the sun. We arrived to Mendoza only at 7 pm. In the evening the city is nicely illuminated - especially the main Plaza Independancia. People are srtolling along main San Martin Ave. With High Andes in the background city has many green avenidas and parks. I must confess I am tired. The bottle of regular wine cost here around one dollar. Let's drink for the great day... We plan to drive even more tomorrow!
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Dec 03, 2019 10:00 PM Buenos - end of the cruise...
After two days in the stormy Atlantic today in the morning "Costa Pacifica" docked in the port of Buenos Aires. It was the time to say goodbye to all friends (I will miss you dear Russians, Hungarians, Americans!) I disembarked at 10 am after a solid breakfast. Uuuu, no changes in the dirty terminal..... Outside of the building crowd of the people waiting for taxis. Hard to see here the other backpacker.... I - the backpacker know my way - turn right, go some 1,5 km along the noisy street full of the big trucks.. Pass the road works and at the exit from the next port gate under the viaduct there is bus stop of 45 bus heading to universitaria via Aeroparque airport. The bus cost less than one dollar. At the moment I am waiting in the AEP airport for my flight to Cordoba. Good free internet here! My Polish friend is also in the air on the other flight. I should meet him in Cordoba around 5 pm.
Later: everything goes well - we rented the car - big logan and reached in the evening Vlilla Carlos Paz. Twin room with a kitchen costs here only 1 USD. Payment in dollars is accepted. Buenas noches from Argentina!
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Dec 01, 2019 10:00 PM Storming in the Atlantic
This was surprise for everybody on the ship. In the night after leaving Rio our ship stasted to dance on the waves ( and we started to dance on the dance floor - but this ws a challenge!) The captain Valentino ordered to lock the doors to the open decks. The life on the ship bacame little boring (unless you have a good friends) The concert of two tenors in the theatre - nice, popular songs...
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Nov 30, 2019 10:00 PM In the legendary Rio again...
The entrance to the Guanabara Bay is very spectacular. It was 7 am when we were approaching one of the most picturesque places in South America - Rio has very spectacular location. But today the weather is hazy, hazy. No blue sky... Anyway - it was great again to pas along the Sugar Loaf, Copacabana before docking near the bridge... I used old method to reach the beaches from the cruise terminal : free taxi from jewellery shop. They left me in Ipanema. I saw the precious stones, they offered me a piece for 1400 USD then I said thank you and I took along walk along Ipanema and Copacabana Beaches. Memories... . On Sunday the beaches were full of tourists, pretty local girls - the Cariocas. Great walk, refreshing memories. In the afternoon I took the subway to Cinelendia stop (4,60 reais - you can use credit card) and walk to the modern cathedral with great stain glass in the roof. Few people know that just nearby -at the back of
Pertobras huge building is the last stop of Santa Teresa historic tram. Funny archaic car will up and down, crossing high viaduct - for just 20 reais.
Oh - I was happy walking back to the dock. A lot of homeless people sleeping on the card boxes, but also the strong presence of the police... What a day in Rio!
Now we will be sailing two days at sea to Buenos Aires - the cruise will reach the end... Ahoy!
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Nov 29, 2019 10:00 PM Salvador - Bahia
I am again in Salvador - Bahia state, famous for great colonial monuments and Afro-Brazilian culture. It is for me great place to explore, but already on the ship we received the official warning: take care on the streets, do not wander the side alleys, keep your watch in the pocket... Brazil... Aha... there are also improvements: the wifi connection in the terminal works good!
I am always fascinated again when arriving to Salvador Bahia - today I found much more tourists then years ago but it is still nice with such an explosion of the colors and music (no drummers parade today but they still drum on the Jesus Square. The cathedral is open after restoration and the charge 5 reales for the entrance which will allow you to see golden altars. There are ladies in the national costumes hunting for the tourist to offer paid picture... Something new: young men are pointing palms, sun etc... on your naked arms or legs. Great place to be - for just 10 reales you can buy the straw hat protecting you from the strong sun. Tomorrow we will have day at sea on our way to Rio de Janeiro.
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