the Navmag ferry is the only practical route north from P. Natales unless you want to retrace your steps north thro Argentina The accommodation is basic, if you are over 30 avoid the dorms. The food is good and copious
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19th October Day 36
Morning spent preparing for the boat. Sent washing to laundry, 1500peso a kilo. Bought some basics for the boat, water ,coke etc. Posted Dans birthday present using registered post. No real confidence it will reach him as the post office man was very slow. No luck finding a hair dresser for Jenny who will soon look like an old english sheep dog. Why does my beard appear to grow twice as fast as the hair on my head- no mens barber anywhere. Found a hairdresser later who gave Jenny the shortest cut imaginable, ideal for travelling she insisted . She then attacked me and my beard,a very enjoyable experience for me!! Embarqued at 9.00pm with about 70 other tourists. The cabin was very compact; Fortunately our young German, Peter, is very discreet and I don’t think it will be a problem sharing with him. Met again this German/ Canadian lady from the refuge who had fallen and hurt her back there. We suggested she try's for an upgrade like us as the youngsters in the ‘dorms’ are heavily ladened with booze so it could be a bit rowdy. She struck lucky and now has a cabin to herself.
20th October Day 37
A good nights sleep and set sail at 6.00 am. Woke to see the White Narrows, the boat passing through an 80m wide channel with a strong current. Good breakfast with everyone very friendly. Very windy but the sea is calm. Visited the bridge, it has all the latest navigational aids but still uses paper charts Met a french couple who have been travelling for 7 years!! It seems we have now moved from the tourist excursion circuit since leaving Ushuaia. We are now in what appears to be the the backpacker circuit.. Everyone is either European or American. There exists within the general group a small contingent of ‘professional’ travellers who seek out an audience to listen to their exploits.
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Two of these together, which we have in the form of an obnoxious Californian and a garroulous Brit from Australia, have a ‘ who has the largest dick’ competion on naming places visited. It is no coincidence that both are travelling alone, having left wives at home. I am just reading ‘ Under the Net’ by Iris Murdoch and her thoughts about communication being a constant form of embellishment and responce seeking seems very apt in our present circumstances. The ‘genuine ‘ traveller, in which of course we include ourselves, are rather few and far between. We will stay here until noon waiting for the weather to improve before attempting the Golf of Penas. We may continue on this boat to Puerto Mont depending on time and weather.
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21st October Day 38
A very windy night with speeds up to 60 knots ( I am told). Woke to see Puerto Eden, a tiny settlement just before English Narrows and the shipwreck. We will stay here until noon waiting for the weather to improve before attempting the Golf of Penas. We may continue on this boat to Puerto Mont depending on time and weather.
We eventually left Puerto Eden at 3.00 pm not knowing the route, all will depend on the weather when we reach the Golf of Penas. Sea sick pills will be on sail for 500 peso each. Eventually we turned back into channel because of the wind and wave heights and anchored by a ship wreck – an ominous sign.
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22nd October Day 39
A clear morning with the boat starting at 4.00 am to cross the Golf. I took the pills thank God. We steamed fro 12 hours in the open sea with 4m waves. We pitched and rolled all day. Jenny slept but I felt quite good and even managed some lunch. We were very few who took lunch. I spent hours on the bridge and spotted two whales but only briefly. Took some pictures of the sunset in the Southern Ocean. This Ocean is notable for its long swell whiched reached 4m in the late afternoon. Went to bed, first looking at my feet above my head and then below my head as the boat rolled up to 20°.
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Published on Wednesday January 9th, 2008
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Wed, Jan 09 2008 - 09:52 PM
 by adampl
| May I suggest you upload it as travel log entries rather than a report. |
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9 votes
