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Salzburg - A travel report by Alexander
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Salzburg,  Austria - flag Austria -  Salzburg
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alexsbg's travel reports

Salzburg, on a sunny summer afternoon

  15 votes
Can I help you? You won't hear this often in Salzburg. To be intrusive is a no-go here. Even beggars avoid it - if you find them at all. But if you ask someone comming along, you may be surprised how friendly and helpful the people are. report of the month contest
Jun 2004

St. Peter's Cementery
(courtesy of a home page I do not remember, sorry)
St. Peter's Cementery (courtesy of a home page I do not remember, sorry)
For centuries, the city was ruled by the Catholic clerus and the archbishops who formed the historcial centre. Salzburg is traditional and conservative in a literal sense. There are the many historical buildings, the city centre (on UNESCO's list of the world's cultural and natural heritage), the classic music and of course, Mozart. You cannot escape this most famous son of the country, it already starts with your arrival at the W.A. Mozart international airport! But there is more to it than Mozart and the Salzburg Festival of classic music. When you are due with the musts that are well described in your tourist guide, you are probably ready for something different. Are you? Then follow me... This little excursion starts at Grünmarkt (green market) in front of the Collegiate church. This is not only a name but indeed a market, open from Monday to Saturday. If you like fresh fruit, vegetables and cheese, then foster your daypack here. Two corners away from Grünmarkt you will find the entrance to St. Peter's abbey, one of the oldest Benedictine cloisters in the world. The Peterskeller restaurant on the right of the abbey church is probably as old as the cloister itself (mentioned in 803 a.d.), but we are not going for lunch now. What I want to point you to is right behind the two courtyards of the abbey: St. Peter's Cementery which is more a picturesque and lovely garden than a graveyard. Stroll through the garden and read the plates on the graves - you'll find a lot of well known historic names who are buried here. Including Michael Haydn, the famous physicist Paracelsus and Mozart's sister Nannerl. Across the Gothic St. Margaret's Chapel, seven iron crosses remind of a man and his women who met an uncommon fate: they were tickled to death by their husband.

Favourite spots:
St. Peter catacombs
St. Peter catacombs
If you like the atmosphere, I recommend to visit the catacombs which are built into the rock above the cementery. The 1 Euro entrance fee is worth it. A short walk to the Great Festival Hall (actually behind it) brings us to Clemens-Holzmeister--Stiege, a flight of stairs that lead up the Mönchsberg hill. The stairflight is next to the entrance of the public Altstadt car park. I really hope you are a good walker ;-) From here on, the view gets better with every step you climb. Can you imagine to walk these steps every day, up and down, Summer and Winter time? If you live here, you have to. That's the price the residents pay for the beautiful view (okay, there's a street on the other side of the hill... but some houses can only be reached per pedes apostolorum, really...). On top of the hill, you have the choice: turn left and visit the Castle Hohensalzburg (if you haven't already, this is a very good opportunity), or turn right and come with me.

What's really great:
Check their webcam!
Stadtalm ( Check their webcam!
Our next stop is the Stadtalm, a restaurant with an outdoor-dining garden and probably the best view over Salzburg. It's situated on the edge of the cliffs, above Pferdeschwemme and Sigmundstor. Have a break, enjoy the view! I am meandering one of many footpaths on the Mönchsberg in the meantime. We'll meet at the museum, which is currently under construction.

Mönchsberg Museum
(under construction)
Mönchsberg Museum (under construction)
For pictures visit:

Hotel Schloß Mönchstein by twilight
Hotel Schloß Mönchstein by twilight (
Walked enough for the day? The Mönchsberg lift at the museum building brings you down to earth. If you are keen on joining my company for the rest of the walk, it'll be another 20 minutes downhill walk to Mülln. The area is named after the mills that were once there. We'll pass by the pictoresque Hotel Schloß Mönchstein with its famous wedding chapel and visit a platform with a huge fence, built to prevent people from committing suicide (the place was quite popular for that). We'll march past the Augustinian Church of Mülln (no more church visits, please) and eventually reach the Augustinian Beer Hall, which is only a few steps away from the church. The former monastery is indeed a genuine piece of Salzburg. Remember my tip at the Grünmarkt? I haven't done this for ages, but it was usual for the guests to bring their own food and just buy the beer. Anyway... Don't wait to be served! Get your Maß of beer yourself and ... Mahlzeit!

Other recommendations:
Salzburg travelogue picture
Student's pilgrimage from Toscaninihof to the church of Mülln (almost the same route as described above, note that it ends at the church, not the beer hall!) on Friday, August 6, 2004. Meeting point: Toscaninihof, Clemens-Holzmeister-Stiege at 9:30 p.m (details at

PS: If you haven't met anyone but tourists on this hot summer afternoon, you may wonder where the Salzburg citizens are... They flee from town and take a break on one of the many shores in the Salzkammergut lake district. But that's a different story...

Published on Wednesday June 2th, 2004

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Sat, Jun 05 2004 - 12:09 PM rating by kathmandukitten

What a wonderfully interesting report! Fantastic reading!

Wed, Jun 02 2004 - 05:52 PM rating by mystie21

I love your little walk through! Great report.

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