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Welcome to my travellog. Here you can read about my journeys day by day. 
Sep 16, 2007 06:00 PM Jewish Budapest
In the morning we tried to visit the St Stefan Basilica but it was closed until 2 p.m. as some conference was held there. We decided to come back and visit other places until the Basilica reopens. The building of the Parliament is located quite close to the Basilica so we went there to check if we can visit it. It turned out it's closed as some foreign politics were visiting it. Later on Laszlo explained to us it might have been closed as there is fear of civil unrest in Budapest in coming days and Hungarian politicians are afraid of plain people who don't like what is going on in the country and want to express their dissatisfaction.
It was after midday and we hadn't visited any place so we decided to go to the Jewish quarter hoping the synagogue and the museum are open. The synagogue is built in Moorish style and has quite unusual interior much more typical for catholic or protestant churches rather than a Jewish temple. We had a guided tour there and the guide told us it's the second largest synagogue in the world in terms of people it can hold at a time. After that we had an interesting guided tour around the Jewish Museum full of ritual tools, Toras, and exhibits from the time of Holocaust. Sometimes it was a really terrifying journey to the past. In the late afternoon we went again to the Basilica and this time it was open. I wouldn't say I was impressed by what I had seen - just another big church.
In the evening after returning to Laszlo's flat we had a dinner with him and a couple from Poland who were invited by Laszlo. We had a nice evening chatting with our host, who prepared for us a traditional Hungarian dish - letcho.
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Sep 15, 2007 06:00 PM First impressions in Budapest
We arrived in Budapest in the morning. The flight from Varna took less than two hours. It's very easy to get from the Ferihegy airport to the city centre. Just take a train from the stations located in five-minute-walk distance from the airport. The ride takes about half an hour and the ticket is as cheap as 300 HUF (1 euro = 250 HUF). After getting to the city centre we met our host - Laszlo, a very hospitable and sociable guy contacted through Hospitality Club. We went with him to his flat for a cup of coffee and then he showed us a piece of Budapest - the Gellert Hill and around. We also spend some time on the Castle Hill, which offers great vistas over the city, especially the Parliament building. In the late afternoon we took a long stroll around the city and get back to Laszlo's on foot.
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Sep 14, 2007 06:00 PM Going to Varna
A bus ride to Varna takes about 3 hours so we decided we can leave Veliko Turnovo at 2 p.m. and visit Tsarevets Fortress in the morning. And so we did. Before departing we had a lunch at Shtastlivetsa restaurant again - they have great food and it's a really excellent idea to eat there when in Turnovo. But for icecream go to Ruffy (they have their booths all around the town and you can geat your favourite icecream for peanuts (79 stotinka / 100 grams).
Leaving Veliko Turnovo about 2.30 p.m. we arrived in Varna at 6 p.m. Finding a relatively cheap accommodation turned out to be a problem and finally we stayed at Vaso Hotel (***) paying 60 leva for a double room with aircon.
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Sep 13, 2007 06:00 PM By bike around Veliko Turnovo
In the morning we rented bikes (Gorgona, ul. Zelenka 2, 10 leva per day) to explore the vicinity of Veliko Turnovo. First we climbed the road that leads to Arbanasi to have a good panorama of the town. Having arrived at Arbanasi we spent there a few hours admiring its unique architecture. The hilly terrain is perfect for biking and especially for me who loves dashing at breakneck speed. The region boasts many monasteries and we two. It's undoubtedly worth to go to the St Peter and Paul monastery (easily accessible from Arbanasi by bike).
Going back to Veliko Turnovo we stopped at St Dimitar church - the oldest one in Turnovo (erected in 12th century). Also the two bridges located near this church are worth a glance. One of them is a wood-plank one and the other is a beautiful arched bridge built from stone.
In the evening we went for a to Shtastlivetsa restaurant again. Try their specialty coctail - it's delicious and costs only 2 leva!
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Sep 12, 2007 06:00 PM Arriving in Veliko Turnovo
The plan for today was to get to Veliko Turnovo, as it turned out later, the most picturesque city we visited in Bulgaria. To get to Turnovo from Rila Monastery we had to go through Sofia. First we planned to go to Rila village and take another bus heading to Sofia or another bigger town to the north, but after getting to the bus stop we learnt there is another bus at 9 a.m. going to Dupnitsa with a good connection to Sofia (we had to wait in Dupnitsa only 20 minutes). Another problem was that our bus arrived at Ovcha Kupel bus terminal and buses for Veliko Turnovo leave from the Central Bus Terminal. We went there by taxi paying 10 leva (it was a rip-off). Be very careful when taking a taxi and read the stickers on the windows with rates per km and for the flag fall. Some drivers charge even 4 leva per km when the fair rate is 0.6 leva. Always insist the meter is running. On of the relatively honest taxi companies is OK Supertrans (there are some very similar names of taxi companies who charge twice or thrice the price of OK Supertrans, so make sure you take Supertrans, not Supershans, for example).
The ride from Sofia to Veliko Turnovo took us 3 hrs and we arrived to the town at 4 p.m. We planned to stay in a hotel that was recommended to us by a Dutch couple we met in Rila Monastery, but after leaving the bus we were approached by a lady who offered us accommodations at very decent price (10 leva per person per night). There is no problem with private flats/rooms in Veliko Turnovo and this is accommodations that finds you, not the other way round.
Having left our things in the flat, we took a stroll around the town. Turnovo is located in the gorge of Yantra river with many houses built on the hillside, making Turnovo a very unique and attractive place to visit. In the evening we had dinner in Shtastlivetsa restaurant, the best one in Veliko TUrnovo (we had recommendations from three sources: our host in Sofia, the LP guide book and the Dutch couple from Rila Monastery).
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Sep 11, 2007 06:00 PM Hiking to the tomb of St Ivan Rilski
Today we could sleep longer to make up for getting up early recently. About midday we left the campsite for the Rila Monastery to see it again in full daylight and to visit the main church. The murals inside are breathtaking and so is the whole monastery. It's a pearl on architectural map of Bulgaria and definitely is a must-see for everyone visiting Bulgaria. In the afternoon we went to hike in the mountains surrounding the monastery. There is an easy and well marked hiking track leading to the tomb of St Ivan Rilski - the most important saint in Bulgaria, whom you can find on one leva coin. He is as important for the Bulgarians as is George Washington for the Americans. The hike to the tomb takes about 2 hours and we were walking through forest making an easy ascent. You can go down taking another path, and we decided to go this way. First, the descent is relatively steep but then we walked along an asphalt road. The distance on our way back was shorter and we managed to get to the campsite before dusk.
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Sep 10, 2007 06:00 PM Going to the Rila Monastery
Yesterday there was something wrong with the stove in our room - there was a lot of smoke inside, so we decided to sleep in the main chamber of the hut. In the morning we were woken up by the hut's caretaker who was setting up fire in the stove. Having had breakfast and saying bye to Aneta and the caretaker (a very nice and helpful woman) we headed for the cableway station. On the track we met some tourists who wanted to climb Mt Musala and they asked us for some advice. The way down (as well as upwards) by cableway took us about 25 mins. In Borovets in was considerably warmer than in the high mountains, but still it was chilly.
We take a taxi to Samokov (2 leva per person). In Samokov we learnt the next bus to Dupnitsa is at 2 p.m. so we had time to go for dinner. We went to a restaurant recommended by a local woman. We got there easily but problem started inside. It turned out that nobody from the staff speaks English, German, Russian. They only speak Bulgarian. We managed to say what food we wanted and were assured it would be ready within fifteen mins, but in the end we had to wait more that half an hour and then eat in hurry not to miss the bus.
We arrive in Rila after 4 p.m. and there are no buses to Rila Monastery today. Together with a couple we met in Rila we take a taxi to the monastery (5 leva per person). About 5 p.m. we're in the monastery. It's breathtaking - all walls are colourfully painted and the location is excellent as well - the monastery is surrounded by high mountains and we could discerned several snow-capped peaks.
Doubles in hotels near the monastery cost 60-70 leva, which was too expensive for us. We rented a bungalow on a campsite located ca. 15 mins of walking behind the monastery. The campsite is basic, but has hot showers and the bungalow (double) costs 20 leva.
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Sep 09, 2007 06:00 PM In the Rila Mountains
And again we had to get up early - our bus to Samokov (en route for Borovets in Rila Mountains) was departing at 7 a.m. When we got up, it turned out that Dessi, our host, baked a bread for us!!!
Without any problems we arrived to Borovets, a small town in the Rila Mountains and a good starting point for the highest peak - Mt Musala. In Borovets we met Marek and Aneta, a nice couple from Poland. Together we took the cableway to get a bit higher. Then we still had to hike for about an hour to get to the Musala hut (2389 meters of altitude) in which we stayed. After getting out of the cableway car it turned out the weather conditions are poorer than we thought. The snow was deep and it was thawing making hiking more difficult. In the early afternoon we decided to try to get on the top of Mt Musala. After about 2 hrs we realised we wouldn't manage and started to descend. We didn't have proper equipment for such conditions, including snow up the waist. It's unbelievable that a few days ago we were sunbathing at the Adriatic coast.
After getting back to the hut we hang our things in the main chamber to let them dry. The evening we spent chatting and sipping Bulgarian wine.
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Sep 08, 2007 06:00 PM Mosque, synagogue and tserkovs
Sofia is a melting pot of cultures and religions with a synagogue, tserkovs and a mosque in close proximity. This diversity is partially a legacy of Ottoman occupation over Bulgaria.
We got up early as we have only one day to look around the city. We got to the city center taking a taxi - they're cheap but rip-offs are a real nuisance. Our host - Dessi - gave us several pieces of advice what to see and where to eat, so we had no problems walking around the city.
We started with several orthodox churches. The ones that are worth visit are Sv Nedyela Cathedral, St Alexander Nevsky Tserkov and the Rotonda. It was Sunday so in many churches there were services going on - it was more dificult to visit them, but on the other hand we could see how the rites were performed.
At Alexander Nevsky Square I bought several crocheted and embroidered serviettes (all hand-made).
One of our favourite spots in Sofia was Banya-Bashi Mosque. It was built in the 16th century.
The change of guards in the President Palace is a must-have - you can't imagine how pitiful it can look like.
In the evening our hosts took us out to eat at a traditional Bulgarian restaurant. It had wooden benches inside and live folk music. We really enjoyed it and the food there was exquisite.
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Sep 07, 2007 06:00 PM Another day in journey
According to the timetable our train should arrive in Nis at half past eight, so we set our alarm clocks at 7 to refresh ourselves and pack things.
When we woke up it was bitterly cold in our compartment as the heating didn't work. On top of that it turned out that the train is deleyed three hours, so we could have slept a bit longer today.
After arriving in Nis we took a stroll around the city but there's nothing interesting. Our train to Sofia was also delayed and we left Nis an hour later than planned. The train was full of smugglers who carried cigarettes from Serbia to Bulgaria.
After arriving in Sofia our hosts (contacted through Hospitality Club) picked us from the train station and we went together for a pizza.
Although we were dead tired having spent two days in journey, we talked with our hosts till 1 a.m. - they're so interesting people!
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