Welcome to my travellog. Here you can read about my journeys day by day.
Sep 06, 2007 06:00 PM Picking pomegranates
According to the plan today evening we take an overnight train to Nis (Serbia) to get eventually to Sofia. We didn't have tickets yet so we had to be a bit earlier in Bar, from where our train departs to buy tickets in advance. We wanted to take a whole compartment for ourselves but at first it was not possible. The lady said we can come back at 2 p.m. and meybe the ticket would appear. I don't know the workings of the system but finally we got the tickets and travelled all together.
After collecting the tickets we still had several hours of spare time as our train was leaving at 8:30 p.m. We didn't have anything to do but to stroll around. We took our backpacks (the guy at the left luggage office didn't appear to be trustworthy so we took the backpacks with ourselves. We decided to go towards the mountains and while walking we noticed a grove of pomegranate trees and picked some. It was a bit surprising for me as I had always thought they grow in warmer climate. We were also stunned that people grow kiwi fruit in their gardens as well as limes - with each and every travel you become wiser :)
We returned to the train station well before the departure of our train and we had a nice chat with the locals. People there were very friendly, curious and wanted to talk with us.
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Sep 05, 2007 06:00 PM A lazy day
This was probably the only lazy day during our trip. We got up late and from noon to late afternoon we layed on the beach sunbathing. I managed to take a few nice pictures when the sun was setting - the mountains on the coast were beautifully lit.
In the evening we went out to try a few kinds of local alcohol - it's great.
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Sep 04, 2007 06:00 PM Cetinje - the former capital of Montenegro
Yesterday we had two options for today (depending on weather) - either stay in Budva and go to the seaside or go to Cetinje, which used to be the capital of Montenegro. As the weather was rather poor we decided to go to Cetinje. It took us less than an hour to get there by bus. After arrival we realized it's a small town and at a glance nothing can suggest that once it was a capital city.
First we wanted to see the monastery. Fortunately it was open but the museum that houses many examples of Orthodox art was closed. Actually they could open it and organize a guided tour provided there are ten people to visit the place.
When we got to the museum of the first Montenegrin king - Nikola I - we decided to buy a ticket valid for all other museums in the town. Apart from the aforementioned museum there are two other museums worth a visit. These are the Art Gallery and the Historical Museum.
After visiting the museums we climed a hill where price Danilo is buried and from which opens a beautiful panorama over the town.
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Sep 03, 2007 06:00 PM The southernmost fjord in Europe
Today we visited one of the highlights of our journey - the town of Kotor which is located in the Kotor fjord. It's about one hour from Budva and connections are frequent (about hourly), so we didn't have problem with getting there and away.
The old town is quite similar to Budva, with narrow cobbled lanes and stone houses. Defensive walls are accessible free of charge and provide a good view of the fjord but it's much better to go on the top of the hill to see a wide panorama. When buying the ticket (2 euro) ask for a brochure - it's free. We also went to the St Tryphon's Cathedral (paying only 1 euro for three persons, normally it's 1e/pers, but we asked for a student's discount). Public lavatories are free of charge, but they often get closed (in case of water supply shortage).
After returning to Budva in late afternoon we went to the beach but didn't sunbathe as strong wind started to gust.
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Sep 02, 2007 06:00 PM From the mountains to the coast
Today we have to get to the coastal part of Montenegro and we plan to stay in Budva. This town is located centrally and it will be easy to have day-trips to other coastal towns like Kotor. We leave Zabljak at 7 a.m. and head for Niksic. In Niksic it turns out that we have a direct connection to Budva and don't have to change buses in Podgorica as we previously thought. We arrive to Budva in early afternoon. Soon after leaving the bus there are several people around us placing accommodation bids. Again we managed to find a room for 6 euro per person per night, but this one is much smaller than the one in Zablak and later it turned out there are often problems with water supply. In late afternoon we go to the beach to sunbathe and swim in warm and salty waters of the Adriatic Sea. In the evening we have time to stroll along narrow cobbled lanes of the old town.
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Sep 01, 2007 06:00 PM The second deepest canyon in the world
Durmitor National Park is among others famous from Tara Canyon - by some sources the second depest canyon in the world just after the Grand Canyon. It's 1.3 km deep. We couln't miss it and on the last day of our stay in Durmitor we hiked to Curevac, a rock promontory with breathtaking panorama of the canyon. To get there on foot from Zabljak it takes about three hours. We had some problems with finding the right way to Curevac, but a very kind couple gave us a lift and showed us the way to Curevac.
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Aug 31, 2007 06:00 PM Hike to the Cold Lake
The weather is poor all the time and it's too dangerous to go to high mountains. That's why we decided to go to the Cold Lake (Zminje Jezero) today. The hike takes less than two hours and all the time we were accompanied by a pack of five dogs. The lake looked gorgeous with subtle mist lingering over its waters. It drizzled all the time so we got soaked a bit. On our return way we in to Hotel Jezera where they have Internet access (1 euro per 30 minutes).
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Aug 30, 2007 06:00 PM The best of Durmitor National Park
On the overnight bus we got to Zabljak at 8 a.m. It was easy to find accommodation - actually it was accommodation that found us. Just after getting off we were approached by two women and after a while of haggling we decided to stay in a nice home in the very centre of Zabljak, paying 6 euro per person per night.
Just after leaving our backpacks we went for a hike in the mountains. First, we wanted to see the Black Lake (Crno Jezero) - the most famous one in Durmitor National Park. The highest mountain dominating the panorama is more-than-two-thousand-high Mt Meded. In the early afternoon we started climbing it. From the very morning the weather was great - it was warm and the sun was shining. Unfortunately, in the mountains weather breaksunexpectedly and rapidly and we were caught by a storm only several hundred meters of walking before the very top. When the wind started to gust we were climbing on a steep slope and it was quite dangerous as the stony hillside was slippery. Fortunately, we managed to hide behind a huge rock before it started hailing. Sadly, we had to resign from getting on the top and went down, when the rain and wind eased.
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Aug 29, 2007 06:00 PM At marshal Tito's grave
Yesterday we didn't manage to visit any museum so today we start with Etnographical Museum that houses a huge collection of traditional apparel from all former Yugoslavian countries. Afterwards we go to marshal Tito's grave. He's sometimes called the father of Yugoslavia and the grave with the accompaning museum give you the gist ofwhat personality cult may mean. In the vicinity of the grave there is another (smaller) etnographical museum, but definitely the one located in the city centre is much more worth a visit.
In the afternoon we go to the largest Orthodox church in the world - Sveti Sava. It's not finished yet. St Mark's church is also worth a visit and close to it there is another church but much smaller.
In Belgrade there are still many buildings damaged during the Balkan war with holes made by bullets. It's a really poignant view.
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Aug 28, 2007 06:00 PM First impressions in Belgrade
We get up at 5 a.m. not to miss the train. Not without hesitation our Swiss friend decides to go to Belgrade with us. We arrive to the Serbian capital at 9:30 a.m. and without problems we get to our host (found through Hospitality Club). She's not at home but left keys for us, so we just leave our things and go out to look around in the city.
In Belgrade there are many sights and museums to see, but it soon turns out that some of them are closed. This applies to the National Museum which is closed till 2010 (for renovation). The main sightseeing target for today is the Citadel and the Military Museum located there. From the Citadel there are excellent vistas over the city and the Sava River flowing into the Danube.
For dinner we have local junk food - Cevapi - it's quite OK and you can buy it everywhere.
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