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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Mar 12, 2023 12:00 AM Sumela Monastery
Greek Orthodox monastery in islamic Turkey? Well, before Ottomans here were Greeks and Bizantium... Imagine that 45 kms inland from coastal Trabzon in the mountains, on the altitude of 1200 m above the sea there are nicely restored remains of the monastery. Now it is museum only but till 1974 the monks were still praying there... Imagine huge outcrop of the mountain and on the rocky wall below the chapel with frescos and cells. It is not easy to get there if you do not have a car - it is far from the settlements, but I joined the offered tour by microbus - it cost me 17 euro RT. The microbus took us to the parking in the deep valley. Then you can buy ticket for the shuttle going further up for 20 TL. Once there it is only the climbing - like 20 minutes by well maintained path to the monastery door. Here foreigners are forced to pay 125 TL entry fee (locals only 60 - what a shame!) and you are free to visit monastery buildings. They are on the different levels so there is still up and downs! The place is unforgettable although I saw similaronument in Vardzia, Georgia. Strong wind was blowing when I was descending, but fortunately no rain. Great place, great day!
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Mar 11, 2023 12:00 AM Crossing border to Turkey
Marshrutka from Kutaisi to Batumi goes every hour and you can flag it at any place on the road. They charge 20 lari pp. In Batumi tjey will drop you in the city center - just 30 m from the tourost info kiosk. It is worth to go there to grab some brochures and ask for info. Another minibus to the border - no
88 departs from little square some 300 m away. For jusy 2 lari they will take you to Sarpi border crossing. Before the season i was waiting only 30 min on the Turkish side. No money exchange in Turkish Sarpi but they accept lari to cover bus ride from the border to Trabzon. Normally in they charge 130 lira, 1 euro is worth 20 lira.
The road goes there in the nice landscape - just on the coast, at the bottom of the mountains. In Trabzon, 200 km from the border I found accommodation just near the otogar - bus station (an apartment fre 20 euro) and toot the walk to the main city square with the monument of Ataturk. There is lovely square around with crowd of the people wondering around, I used pedestrian street to go from there to the bazaar. It offers not only many shops squeezed in narrow streets but also few mosques. Trabzon is nice!
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Mar 10, 2023 12:00 AM Flying to Georgia
I took city bus 425 in Larnaca to get to the airport. They charge 2 euro for the ticket - cash only! Allow enough time because it is short distance but the bus is sneaking in the town. I was on time anyway. There is a long marathon in the duty free departament... Wizz plane arrived on time. 2 hours 10 minutes in the air and two hours time change and we landed in Kutaisi in Georgia. What a nice terminal they built in Kutaisi! European level!
Years ago I saw here old soviet construction... What a change!
My host from Gio hostel picked me up from the airport. His house is big with the roomy rooms. But the only bathroom is downstairs. 15 euro per night only. Wecome to Georgia!
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Mar 09, 2023 12:00 AM I crossed the Green Line..
Since the collapse of the Berlin Wall there is only one capital city which is divided by two: it is Nocosia, the capital of Cyprus. Today in the morning I took the bus from Larnaca, where I live to Nicosia. Round trip to ticket (they call it day ticket) costs 7 euro and the journey takes 1 h 15 min, if no traffic jams. I landed at the city walls of Nocosia. Benetians ruled here in 16th century. They build around the city ideally circular chain of the ealls with 11 bastions. If fotographed from the air it reminds a snowflake. Funny and unusual! I took a walk along the walls. Imagine, that regular street goes now on the top of the wall! It was worth to stop at Famagusta Gate - one of four old city gates. Then I was crawling narrow street of the old town, visiting couple of orthodox churches, photographing abandoned mosques. Imagine that in the heart of old Nicosia they just built enormous church with bright iconostasis...
There is only one border crossing to North (Turkish) Nicosia open for walkers and bikers only. It is north of Pafos gate. They call it Lodra Palace passage. In the nicely restored palace now reside UN soldiers who stay in the buffer zone. Passport control on both sides, no crowd. I crossed the Green Line - as the locals call the demarcation zone. There are many abandoned, destroyed houses in this zone - the view is depressing...
The image of North Nicosia is not as bright as in the south. But apart from the bazaar I foun one intereresting places: two caravanserais housing now shops, galleries and restaurants. The huge church of St Sophia, converted by Ottomans into mosque is under restauration.
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Mar 08, 2023 12:00 AM Pottery from Larnaca
Best wishes for all charming ladies on the occasion of the International Women's Day!
Every Wednesday at 10 am the Tourist Office of Larnaca offers free walking tour of the town with the guide. I decided to join such a tour today because local guides usually have great knowledge about places. Old lady took us through the labyrinth of the narrow streets pointing the most interesting places and the free Medical Museum. But the highlight of the tour was the visit in the pottery workshop where the master demonstrated the production process of the dishes. On our eyes he made so called Pitagoras cup - a cup vacuum pumping off all the liquid from inside when the initial level exceed defined amount. So funny!
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Mar 07, 2023 12:00 AM Walk to Cape Greco
Another sunny day! I took an intercity bus from the Lar naca beachfront to Aiya Napa. It cost only 7 euro for the day ticket=round trip. It is some 45 kms to drive, bot it took us more than an hour to the to the monastery stop. Only in 1974 Aiya Napa was a small fishing village. Now the monastery is closed, asking for restauration but around there are plenty of luxury hotels, bars and restaurants... I took a long, 8-km walk to the Cape Greco - the southeasternmost point of Cyprus. On the exit from the town near Marina Hotel I found interesting sculpture park. and then... The road is good, but the hitching is very hard!.
I reached Cape Greco anyway. Just before the sunset the lighting was nice. I was surprised - the cape is not on the high cliff but on the flat rock! Actually it is not possible to go to the point because this area is fenced - restricted for the lighthouse. It was still a great, tiring day and unusual place!
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Mar 05, 2023 12:00 AM Sunny Cyprus...
I have neen here already with my son Adam. 28 years ago! Cyprus today isore or less the same. After heavy militarized and suspicious Israel is like sample of liberty. I took a long walk, visiting the centre of Larnaca. It's fort on the beach and netx to: the Grand Mosque (not too big in fact). The most impressive landdmark is St Lasarus church with a bright iconostasis and silver sarcophagus housing the remains of the saint. From there I took a 5-kms walk to the aqueduct on the outskirts of the town. Few tourists go there, but it is worth to see: about 500 m long and well-restored. See the picture! Then again 5-kms walk to my pension threugh the peripheral streets with prange trees aroun small houses... A 1-litre box of Spanish wine cost just 2 euro. I think I deserved it, especially after "dry" Israel! :)
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Mar 04, 2023 12:00 AM Flight delayed 2,5 hours..
Saturday or Sabbath in Jerusalem. Imagine that I found inexpensive solution to go to the airport! Here is the message worth at least 60 USD: on Ben Yehuda 23 (pedestrian street) upstairs there is shuttle agency operating also in Sabbath. Go there the day before, give address and they will pick you up on time. Payment - 66 NIS cash only directly to the driver of the van.
It took us almost an hour to reach airport. Let you know that different controls took there at least another hour. Be early!
Ironically my wizz flight to Larnaca was delayed 2,5 hours. I landed on Cyprus only before 5 pm. Immigration is easy. I went then to the upper (departure) level, turned left and there is the bus stop of 425 bus going to the center of Larnaca. One ride costs 2 euro paid to the driver _ cash euro only! The bus goes slowly, sneaking on the way so it was already dusk when I reached the door of my pension. Welcome to Cyprus!
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Mar 03, 2023 12:00 AM Last walk through Jerusalem...
Millions pilgrims and soldiers through the ages walked the cobbled streets of this magic city. I am the one... But in the morning I visited the grocery market just off the Jaffa Street. Prices are lower here (kilo of bananas 5-6 NIS) and it is important to make shopping because on the evening everything will be closed due to Sabbath.
Then I took the walk to the parliament building. It is isoloted, but the menorah monument is wirth to see. Israel museum is just nearby (55 NIS entry fee).
After a long walk I found myself in front of Damascus Gate to see the enormous crowd of Arabs swimming out of the Old City.
It is Friday - holy day for the Muslims and they just finished their praying in the Mosque on the Rock. So interesting!
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Mar 02, 2023 12:00 AM Dead Sea & Masada
When I was in Israel years ago I was swimming in the over-salted Dead Sea, but I did not have enough time to visit Masada. Today in the morning I went to the central bus station in Jeru. On the info window they printed for me great weekly timetable for the green bus 486 going there. But they do not sell paper tickets! You have to buy electronic card for 5 NIS cash only and then load on the card 32 NIS for round trip ticket. Could be cash or credit card. We departed at 9 am heading to Allenby Bridge, but turning right before it. The road goes along the Dead Sea. The only attraction on the way in the deserted landscape is En Gedi oasis with palms and lush vegetation. Then nice mountains on the right side and turquoise, hazy Dead Sea on the left. We reached Masada after 1,5 hour drive.
What is Masada? It is fortres in the ruin, located on the 300-m high lonely mountain. Just after Christ Israeli rebels were defendin Masada attacked by Roman legions. They lose, but for Jews Masada remains heroic place. And it is on the UNESCO World Helitage List. You can use cableway to get up (77 NIS round trip or 44 one-way) If you want to climb the comfortable path in the heat (approx. 50 min each way) you still have to pay 33. Strange! Great views from the top and good explanation of the ruins - allow at least one hour on the upper level! Absolutely worth to see!
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