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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Nov 14, 2010 07:00 PM Fever!!!!!
It is not my habit to complain for something stupid. But as an active
person I am very unhappy if I cannot work normally. So I write the true: I had a fever in the night, and even stronger during the day.
Dr Celine brought to me some new tablets. It seems that I am the first
victim of the cold cabin on "Marion Dufresne".
Can you imagine: they say that they can do nothing. The ship's installations were designed on this way. In the corridor the temperature is higher than in the cabin - I keep the door open if possible.
I strongly recommend to those of you who plan to sail this route in thefuture to bring an electric heater.
In every cabin they have at least two power outlets 220V, 5A - so 1000 Watt heater will work well and you have a chance to avoid the sick.
But "Marion Dufresne" is sailing onward. At 5 am we felt that ship's machine stopped. My cabin mate took his camera (a big gun!) and went quickly to the upper deck expecting that the whales appeared. Sorry, it was only a drifting buoy left by the fishing boat.
They picked up the garbage and switched the speed to "full ahead" again.
After French breakfast we were watchinginteresting film about elephant
seals (those who make love on the beach). Their weight is imposing (male can weight till 5 tons and female till 900 kgs. But even more
interesting is that they can dive 1600 m deep, and to swim up to 2500 kms during one journey!
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Nov 13, 2010 07:00 PM Sailing through the "Roaring Forties"
That's how the sailors call the latitudes from 40 degrees south. They have very bad opinion regarding strong winds and bad weather conditions. Nobody goes there unless forced. We go tothe Kerguelen Archipelago now - it is 1420 kms from Crozet to Kerguelen. Can you imagine? It is like crossing Europe
end to end! Captain estimated that we will need 2 days and 3 nights to reach Kerguelen, assuming that we will sail with a speed of 14 knots (standard for our ship). Since our departure from Reunion 8 days we met only one ship. Waves are high today, like the ones I experienced sailing out of the Bouvet Island. Believe me - writing this message I am wondering sliding with my chair around the cabin, according to the strong rolling of the ship. You need one hand to keep the table, and then you can use the second to write. Some of us do not come for the meals. Those who are sea-sick resistant have to act in the mess like in the circus - not to find their meal on the floor. If you slide with your chair on the floor it is better to leave you plate on the table... That's the ocean.
Do you still keep your fingers crossed for me? It is cold in the cabins and that's probably why I have a problem with my throat. But our ship' doctor Celine (what the eyes she has!) said that is nothingserious and gave me citron tablets to chew. She said also that the low temperatures in the cabins are observed on each voyage. So be prepared! This is not a cruise ship!
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Nov 12, 2010 07:00 PM Scientific Base Alfred Faure - Crozet
I had a chance to visit the base. 45 friendly people (French nationals only) work here in the summer, but only 22 during the harsh winter.
Marianna is at the moment the head person
(I was calling her Marianna - the Princess of
Crozet ? ) They have a little hospital and a doctor (not much work - he said). Boutique or the shop (souvenir T-shirts with penguins on sale) and the post office where they offer a lot of stamps, postcards, envelopes etc. Some
6 % of the total TAAF budget comes from the philately. I was impressed by the little catholic chapel - very nice inside, but can accommodate only 5 persons at a time. It is named Our Lady of the Birds. At 4 pm in the strong
wind (prognosis: 100 km/hour) "Marion Dufresne" set sails (or rather the
motors) to the east. Just 10 miles away we passed second-large island of the Crozet archipelago: Eastern Island. I must tell you that it is even nicer regarding the landscape then Possession Island. It remind me a ruined castle
rising from the sea. When we were sailing along its southern coast I took some nice pictures. And then. When we sailed out from the protecting island "Marion" experienced high swell of the sea. It was hard night for all of us.
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Nov 11, 2010 07:00 PM They make love just on the beach!
Tourist do not have priority on this ship - it is supply vessel sailing south to bring scientists and all they need to work in this remote region. In the morning we unloaded people and stuff in Laperouse Bay on the southern coast.
Before the clouds covered mountains I saw the highest peak on the island: sharp Pic du Mascarin - it has 934 m. They say that it is possible to climb it from the base (it takes 3 hours eachway). Then along the southern coast we sailed back to the base. Helicopter took us to the American Bay on the NE coast. Scientists have there little shelter accommodating 4 people. King penguins and seals are wondering around.
American Bay or BUS - like they say here - took the name from American sealers which worked here during few seasons in the early 20th century. We saw the foundations of their houses - but it is nothing special. Then we crossed a river (rubber boots are necessary) and took a walk up to the bottom of the Morne Rouge hill. Skuas, giant petrel and rockhopper penguins were on our way. But the biggest attraction was view in the La Petite Manchotiere - another king penguin colony. Penguins share the beach with giant elephant seals. And elephant seals were just making love in front of them. And I do not think they were ashamed!
Rain started when we returned to BUS and the evacuation to the ship by helicopter was rather dramatic - Pascal, our master-pilot decided to fly just over the surface of the water around the island.
Now it is the time to dry all stuff - they have free dryer on our deck.
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Nov 10, 2010 07:00 PM Crozet Archipelago on the horizon!
In Poland my friends celebrate our national holiday. I also celebrate it - thousands kilometers away. There will be the toast at the dinner for Poland and all my Polish friends. My French fellow do not know much about Poland and our history.
In the morning I saw for the first time the high, northern coast of Possession Island - the biggest island of Crozet Archipelago. The islands were discovered by the French expedition headed by Marion Dufresne on 22nd January 1772. Now you know why they named our supply ship "Marion Dufresne". Julien
Crozet was the first mate on this expedition and the archipelago got his name. The islands were forgotten for many years. Only in 1931 France sent there navy ship to confirm that they are still French. Icy wind on the open deck. Our helicopter takes to the shore people and equipment for the field scientific works during Antarctic summer. Then we sail along the picturesque northern coast with cliffs and waterfalls to Marin Bay, where scientific base Alfred Faure is located. Soon helicopter took us ashore.
On the coast, 1,5 km walk down from the base we visited huge king penguin colony. Busy and interesting day!
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Nov 09, 2010 07:00 PM Fourth day in the ocean
It is 2860 kms from Reunion to the islands of Crozet Archipelago. We already entered the zone of the "roaring forties" - 40 degrees and more to the South, infamous for the bad weather. And it is true: since today's morning the ocean around is no longer blue but grey, no more sun and the waves are much higher. In the mess they use already special, rubber table cloth, so the plates do not fall down.
In the morning we had helicopter security instruction. They have one little helicopter on board (capacity: 5 pax + pilot) It is 8-years old but looks much better than the ship. It seems that they prefer to send passengers to the land by helicopter then I the zodiacs.
I just want you to know that from the ship I do not have access to the web pages and to my standard mailbox. You can read my daily notes because I send them in the packages via satellite to my friend, who is uploading them to the GS portal (thank you Magda!). I will be able to response all your letters only on 2nd December. So please, be patient.
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Nov 08, 2010 07:00 PM Manchot - do you know such an animal?
During the long days at sea we have lectures and slide shows in the cramp conference hall. In French language of course. My French allows me to speak about travels and daily life, but
not about geology, environmental problems and
biology. It is easier to understand if you see it written on the screen. Today they spoke about manchots. Did you hear about such an animal? That's how they call penguins! What do they
invented!
For those of you who plan to follow my route here is the info which is not available when you plan the voyage: Basic plan of "Marion Dufresne" journey: Reunion- 4 days at sea - Crozet 3 days - 2 days at sea -Kerguelen 5 days - 2 days at sea - Saint Paul 1 day - Amsterdam 3 days - and 4 days at sea to
Reunion. Little changes are possible depending of the cargo and weather. So far I do not complain about the weather - it is sunny and the majestic wondering albatrosses are flying around the ship all day. I sleep better now.
There is not much vibration from the ship's motors because they are powered from electric generators. But you still feel the rocking and rolling. Fortunately for dinner they serve good wine, which is included in our daily menu. After
few glasses you will sleep better.
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Nov 07, 2010 07:00 PM Stranger in the (French) "paradise"
All announcements on the ship are in French and I try to follow them,
but it is also not easy because they speak very fast. It is their home
language and talking they use very sophisticated words and phrases to
proof how intelligent they are. Fortunately I have a English-speaking
cabin mate Gerard and he is often explaining what is going on. One of
the guides (we have 2 guides for 15 travelers) speaks English and from
time to time translates for me. I found that the half of their
conversation is polite bla-bla-bla-bla, just the garbage - not worth to
translate.
Captain announced that it will take us four days and four nights to get
to the place of the first landing on Crozet Island. I had a time to
visit all decks and (I am sorry to say that) I see that the ship is
dirty and requires a lot of paint. "Marion Dufresne" is sailing to the
islands of French Subantarctic only 4 times per year with the supply for
the French scientific stations, bringing new shift of the scientists and
taking back the old one. It has 50 people of the crew and space in the
cabins for 110 passengers (officials, people in charge, scientists and
the tourists). Most of this space is occupied by the young scientists
and technicians who repair broken equipment of the stations during these
days when the ship anchors at the island. On this voyage we - the
travelers - are the weak minority - it is only 15 of us and they said
they never take more then 20 - it depends on the number of the free
bunks. They said that the space for the tourists on `Marion` is sold
already for two years ahead. We feel like the chosen ones...
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Nov 06, 2010 07:00 PM French breakfast on the Indian Ocean
Sunday. In the morning I saw only blue ocean around. The weather is
sunny with some clouds and moderate wind. Our ship is swinging on the
waves up and down and I try to adjust myself to the new situation. Waves
are quite high: 2-3 meters. In the morning they serve self-service,
French breakfast: coffee, bread, butter & jam and some fruits. Every day
the same stuff. No eggs, cheese or meats, sorry. Instead they serve
your choice of cheese (but only the kids portions) during lunch and
dinner.
It is only 15 of us - the passengers on board of "Marion Dufresne". And
it seems that I am the only non-Frenchman on the ship. Wow! Maybe it is
the honor, but for this reason my life here is not easy. In the morning
captain invited us to the bridge for the introduction. In French of
course. In the afternoon we had the lecture about emergency
procedures and a trial evacuation alarm. But this is normal. I saw the
lonely container ship passing by. It was on the shortest route from Cape
Town to Singapore. Further south it will be hard to see any vessels.
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Nov 05, 2010 07:00 PM From Reunion to the cold South!
I got the message via e-mail that I can board the ship after 2.30 pm so
I decided to make in the morning another excursion - to the Mafate
Mountain Circus. There is no public transport like to Cilaos, but they
built a good paved road to the Maido view point on the edge of the
circus. My friend took me there by her car. It is only about 40 kms up
from Saint Paul but it took us more than an hour to get from the sea
level to some 2000 meters above. It is better to start early in the
morning because later the clouds cover the mountains and there is not
much to see. We were lucky! The view from Maido is exceptional: you can
see all mountain circus with small settlements in it, connecting paths
and pitons - single, sharp rocks rising from the circus.
At 2.30 pm I finally saw expedition ship "Marion Dufresne II" in the old
part of Reunion's port. With its 9000 BRT it is much bigger than the
Russian ships known from my previous sailings to Antarctica. And it has
a special deck for the little helicopter. They were waiting for me. I
got a lower bunk in the twin cabin with bath and was soon introduced to
the captain and fellow passengers. At 5.30 pm we set sails for the
26-days expedition to the cold South. I do hope it will be one of the most
exciting sailings in my life.
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