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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Oct 18, 2010 02:00 PM "Hainan braces for typhoon" !!
There are competing airlines in China so it is worth to shop around. Don't buy China domestic tickets abroad: even on the net you will pay approx twice more then here... I paid for the ticket to Hainan 430 yuan - like 70 USD only incl taxes...
Traveling long time across China without the knowledge of the local language you are pretty well isolated from the news. But boarding my plane in Guangzhou impressive airport I got an english edition of "China daily". I opened it on board already flying to Hainan and I rode: "Hainan braces for typhoon"...
Strong typhoon Megi is on the Philippines now heading to South China Sea.
It was raining when we landed in Sanya. They have already flooding due to the heavy rains but only in the central-north part of the island...
I found the minibus shuttle going to the Dodonghai beach quarter. Blue Sky Hostel is almost empty - everybody escaped... How about me? Please keep eye on the typhoon forecast! Thanks...
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Oct 17, 2010 02:00 PM Hard sleeper, but not too hard...
The lower cathegory of the sleeper on Chinese Railways are hard sleepers. There are open compartments with 6 beds on 3 levels in every one. They provide clean pillow and sheets with thick blanket. Bud it is true that the bunks are hard...
It is very socializing style of travel - everybody is looking what you are doing and during the day all pax sit on the lower beds. That's why it is better to buy the middle bunk, if available...
I travel on a hard sleeper from Yongding to Guangzhou - like 9 hours only. And this will be the end of my rail odyssey through China. From Guangzhou I plan to take inexpensive domestic flight to Hainan Island.
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Oct 16, 2010 02:00 PM Strange houses of Hakka people
I am in Yongding - Fujian Province. And I know that it was a good choice to make a stopover. It is stunning rural area of rolling hills. Hakka people live here in their strange tulou - the roundhouses. I must tell you that I did not see such a buildings in the world. Can you imagine the building of the size and shape of Roman circus? Made of mud or earth if you wish... It is like little round castle 3-6 storey high with one gate only.
Inside there are galleries made of timber and rooms or flats on 3-6 levels where the Hakka still live... 200-300 flats in one tulou... People are cooking, cleaning, washing - the buildings are avlive!
I went by bus to Lulian (13 yuan from Yongding) and rented there the motorbike with a local driver - he took me to different tulou. I paid him 120 yuans - like 20 USD but it was worth... But... Chinese authorities established a post on the only road to tulou - they charge 100 entry fee for 3 places - you are receiving ticket with a UNESCO World Heritage Sign...
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Oct 15, 2010 02:00 PM Did you hear about Piano Island?
A bowl of sweet peanut soup and xialongbao dumplings for the breakfast - all cost me 5 yuan (less then 1 dollar) in the Xiamen street eatery...
Just opposite the old part of the city you will see little island of Gulang Yu. It has a Chinese nickname of Piano Island. Why? They say that many famous China's pianists learned and worked on this island...
Gulang Yu in the past was the place of the first European community, settled here in 19th century. A lot of houses from that era remained and the island still has its charm with narrow streets, banyan trees, colonial mansions and flowers.
I took a ferry to get to the island - it takes only 10 minutes each way and 8 yuan for RT ticked paid on return leg. It is worth to pay 1 youan more and get to the upper dack for the view of the skyline of Siamen and the roofs of Gulang Yu... Unfortunately catholic church - probably the nicest on the island was closed during my visit... Maybe you will be lucky to see it inside...
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Oct 14, 2010 02:00 PM Xiamen - tropical China...
I like this city from the first day... It is not like other monster-cities of China. Some half a million inhabitants only... Beautifuly located on the coast, with nice skyline and hills in the background... Easy to navigate, with simple bus system (1 yuan a ride). And it is warm and sunny here: trees are in blossom, people are easy-going. I am in the tropics, where day tempersture reaches pleasant 29 deg Celsius...
I stay in the international youth hostel (last stop of the city bus 1 from the station). Nice place, except... the mosquitoes. As usual in the tropics... They have nets in the windows installed but they are still inside. Bring your own net or the repellent to sleep better - I did not expect such a case!
Just 300 m from Nanputuo Temple - the main buddhist temple of the city. They charge 7 yuan entry fee but it is worth to be there early in the morning - before the tourist groups arrive... You will see chanting monks in orange dressing and worshippers lighting incense.
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Oct 13, 2010 02:00 PM China - how to get railway tickets...
I have ny next segment of rail journey - not much - just over 1000 kms... :))
I tried to buy my ticket few days ahead. At the station there is usually a crowd waiting in front of the ticket office. Do not expect a special English-speaking desk... So It is better to ask in your hostel - let's them write for you on the piece of paper in Chinese where and when you want to travel...
I did. The clerk in the window was looking at the paper and he said: tickets for today and tomorrow only! I found somobody speaking some English to explain, but the answer was the same... There should be a special window at the big stations for advance, 10-days purchase - but who knows where?
In the big towns there are little railways booking offices in the downtowns. Ask at the hostel - your chance will be better there. That's what I did. They charge 5 yuan more per ticket but they shold know few words of English and they are likely to find you other connection in case if there is no space on the train of your choice. I have my ticket to Xiamen! Let's go!
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Oct 12, 2010 02:00 PM Les baguettes de Hangzhou
Do you remember a lovely song "Les biciclettes de Belsize?"
Well, now - in 6-million Hangzhou I sing it "Les baguettes de Hangzhou" Why? After a number of consecutive days on rice and noodles only I have just round the corner French patisserie where they offer fesh and crispy French baguettes /7 yuan each/. Oh la,la!
I stay in the Mingtown youth hostel conveniently located on the West Lake, close to the center of the city. They charge 40 yuans for the dorm bed with a YH card.
I do not speak Chinese and often I have problems. But they are easy to solve. Today I wanted to buy a honey. Shopkeeper did not understand what is honey but after my short demonstration (with bzzz... bzzz... (what the bees do) and mniaam... mniaam... - he brought me a jar of honey (for 15 yuans). Everybody had a fun!
The nicest part of old Hangzhou is located around the West Lake. Can you imagine green hills with pagodas, temples, gardens. Boats sailing to the small islands on the lake? - People say that it is like a the image of traditional Chna in the pill... I took a walk around the lake. The weather unfortunately is wet, so it is only half of the pleasure... May be next time...
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Oct 11, 2010 02:00 PM Guanyin Goddess Statue - 33 m-high!
There are many temples on the Putuoshan Island. Those on the green mointain ridge are connected by the path - I was going from temple to temple enjoying the views and the atmosphere of the sacred places... Eventually the path took me to the main Puji Temple - biggest on the island. Ponds full of the lotus flowers are there and huge statue of the Buddha of the Future. Crowd of pilgrims inside...
But the best-known place on the sacred island is the huge, open-air terrace with the 33-m high statue of the Goddess of Mercy - they call her here Guanyin... Well, with hundereds people around it is hard to contemplate the landscape. But this is China - 2-mln city is recognized as small one... It is very hard to find the place to be alone! Now I should tell you something sad: on arrival to the island they charge hefty 160 yuan "as the fee for the entry to the scenic area" - if you are pilgrim or not - that's also China!
Back on the mainland I plan to take the train to Huangzhou - another historic place... Cloudy, rainy evening - I pray for the better weather!
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Oct 10, 2010 02:00 PM Putuoshan - The Sacred Island
Do you remember when I was climbing Mt Emeishan?
There are four sacred places for the Bhuddist believers in China.
I saw Emeishan. Putuoshan Island is the next one. The island is small enough to visit all in two days. Ningbo - the 5-mln city act as a gateway to Putuoshan - in the bacck street on the Old Bund I found "Passenger Ferry Terminal" (Signs in chinese only).
They sell here tickets (73 yuan) for combined bus+speedboat service. 4-5 departures per day.
The bus segnent to the port of Dixie takes more then an hour. Then they will lock you in the speedboat (no open decks - I do not like it, but no choice!) for another hour ride through the bay.
A lot of pigrims come to the island byt also group tours. For the foreigners it it out of the main trach place - I din not see any other "Lawai"... Hotels on the island are expensive, no hostels. But a charming lady was waiting for me in front of the terminal. She wrote "100" on the piece of paper and took me to her house. I like this - such a homestay gives me opportunity to know more about the locals. I bought a kilo of plain rice in the shop (7 y) and she boiled it for me ioin the kitchen. Tasted like in the French restaurant!
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Oct 09, 2010 02:00 PM China: beer is close, but bread far away...
Just over the stone bridge, some 50 m from the Mingtown Youth Hostel I have a little shop to buy my food. Popular Tsingdao beer -big bottle - cost there only 4 yuan, an egg -0.60, but you will not find there such a basic product like a bread :))
To get it you have to go to the downtown - in the bakeries sellind cakes you will find it paying 9 yuan for 300 g - expensive!
My laundry is already dry so it is time to pack up an to say bye to Suzhou - in the late afternoon I plan to reach the island of Putuoshan....
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