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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Apr 12, 2010 02:00 PM Unlucky in Wakkanai... 60 kms to Sakhalin!
I am in the northern tip of Japan - only 60 kms from the Russian port of Korsakov on the Sakhalin...
Sometimes the experience and the determination are not enough. You need also some luck to make your plan working.
It is snowing non- stop since the morning. I went to the Wakkanai port. I recognized two little Russian fishing boats. I went aboard to speak to the captain. -Russian authorities do not allow us to take the passengers! Sorry! They did not change the mind even when I offer discretly the bribe. In addition they said that the cyclone is coming from the east so they do not know when they will sail out.
Then I was trying to get to the second boat. Guard stopped me at the gate. Police car arrived soon. Two guys in the black coats, one of them speaking Russian. I have been investigated and taken for the control at the immigration services post. They searched my bag. Finally they said let me go, but they know that Russians are not allowed to take passengers on the fishing boats. There is a chance on big, cargo ships but at the moment there is no such a ship in the port...
First Japanese ferry will cross the straits to Sakhalin on June 8th - just let you know. Then it will be simple to go to Russia. But it will cost hefty 25000 yen for the one way!
It is still snowing - I decided to come back to Sapporo and look for the flight before snow will completly cover the single rail track to this last Japanese outpost...
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Apr 11, 2010 02:00 PM Through the snowy Hokkaido
It is more then 400 kms from Sapporo to the little port of Wakkanai at the northernmost point of Japan. Rail travel takes about 6 hours. I started at 12.37 - they are always on time! It is hard to believe but north of Sapporo there is more and more snow. Sun was shinning above the fields when we were meandring along the little rivers, at the bottom of picturesque hills. Less and less settlements... It looks like Siberia... Winter landscape... I reached little Wakkanai station when it was already dark. I found the youth hostel near the station closed. Fortunately the other one - on the hill was open. Cold inside, but the welcome was very warm. I am the only guest...
They say: no Russian ships in the coming days. Should I trust them?
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Apr 10, 2010 02:00 PM From the tropics of Okinawa to the snows of Hokkaido
All day on the trains! Superexpres shinkansen goes only as far as Hatchinoche on Honsiu island. Then I changed a train and we soon entered 53-kms long undersea tunnel between the islands of Honsiu and Hokkaido. After some half an hour in the darkness I saw the snows on the hills of Hokkaido. We arrived soon to Hakodate and I changed the train again...
The area of Hokkaido gives 20% of the area of Japan. But only 5 % of the population live here. The landscape is different, village houses are not as nice as in the south.
Hokkaido until mid-19th century was little known - Ainu people lived here. Later was colonized by Japanese and now it is hard to see Ainu here.
In Sapporo, in the late evening I found the Sapporo house YH, not far from the station. Almost empty place -they charge 3150 yen per dorm bed. One traditional Japanese bathroom for all - it is in the basement. Bring your earplugs - rail track is just nearby and you will count all trains passing by...
It is cold - only 4 deg Celsius - I dream again about the heat of Okinawa...
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Apr 09, 2010 02:00 PM Bad news about the ship and more...
In the afternoon I arrived by Hikari superexpress to Tokyo.
Somebody was waiting for me: Mirek and his Family - the Poles living temporary in Japan. Thanks a lot for your invitation and your warm hospitality! It was so nice to speak again Polish...
As you know, I plan to go to Russian Sakhalin from the top of Japan - Hokkaido island by sea. I got a bed message. Russian ship just sailed yesterday from Otaru and they do not know if there will be another one sailing in the coming days. I have to go to the port immediately to check availability - from the distance it is very hard to get any reliable information, if you do not speak Japanese.
Another bad news: Polish government jet crashed with our president and many other politicians on board. Tragedy... So sorry!...
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Apr 08, 2010 02:00 PM Superexpress like a taxi...
When I was first time in Japan some 20 years ago I was surprised that their superexpress trains go every 15-20 minutes... Now I use them without any limits, using my railpass.
I have been today to Himeji to visit the most magnificent Japaneese castle. The castle is really beautiful, especially that is surrounded by cherries in blossom -a lot of them! Entry to the castle cost 600 yen - it is worth to spend.
Then I took Hikari superexpress to Kyoto, to see again after years the big Buddhist temples near the station. Entry to Highashi and Nishi temples is still free but I found the biggest temple in Highashi covered by the special, modern roof. Temples are still impressive.
In the afternoon I took the Hikari back to Osaka - to see one more castle and famous aquarium - all in one day!
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Apr 07, 2010 02:00 PM Sayonara, my nicest minshuku!
Shikoku Island. Japan.
Minshuku is usualy a little Japanese-style guesthouse. Hard to find if you dont know local language - no English script on the building... I like minshuku... I prefere them to the crowded backpackers institutions like Miyajima. For single tatami room you pay the same price like for the dorm bed in backpackers or YH: 3300 yen.
In Tokushima on Shikoku I stay in the Sakura-ji minschuku located just 150 m from the station. The lady owner do not speak any English, but is very polite. Me too! I got free yukata (mens version of light kimono) to wear, daily portion of green tea and every evening he were preparing for me Japaneese-style bath in the only bathroom.
Today it was the time to say -Sayonara! I was really very sad to leave this place. I went by train to the picturesque Iya Valley in central Shikoku. Nice landscapes there, but I must go north soon...
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Apr 06, 2010 02:00 PM Pilgrim on Shikoku Island
Few travelers go to Shikoku Island. It is off the main trail. Okayama is the only gateway to Shikoku if you travel by rail...
Shikoku is the island of the shines. In 8th century holy Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi started the pilgrimage from temple to temple around the island. Today thousands of Buddhist do that - mostly in segments, because all circuit covering 88 shrines is 1400 kms long.
I started early from the first temple of Ryozenji - very nice and atmospheric place, then walked onward to Gokurakuji to meet there a group of "real" pilgrims dressed in white, with traditional straw hats - you will see them the pictures. They were singing in the temple very nice. Then 2,5 kms walk to the next temple - Konsenji, and again 5 kms to Dainichiji through the bamboo forest. In the fifth temple - Jizoji rain started. I decided to come back to Tokushima. I visited 5 temples of 88... Not much maybe. But enough to feel the atmosphere of the pilgrimage on the unusual trail...
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Apr 05, 2010 02:00 PM Miyajima - World Heritage Site
Just 25 minutes from Hiroshima by local train or almost an hour by tram on the coast lies Miyajima-guchi. You will find there a ferry port and a backpackers institution. The reason to get there is famous Itsukushima temple on the Miyajima island nearby. You can stay like me in the Backpackers Miyajima - they charge 2500 y per bed in the 4 beds dorm. In fact it is 24-beds dorm because little rooms are separated only by courtains... Coin for the 5-min shower and free tea/coffee are included. They are located just 100 m from the ferry.
For those who has the railpass JR ferry is free. (otherwise pay 340 yen). Already on the approach to the island you will see famous "floating" red tori gate - one of the best known monuments of Japan. It is immpressive! The secret is to come to the island in the high tide time. When I was coming back from the island in the evening tide was low and it was possible to walk to the tori... They charge 300 yen for the entrance if you want to go into the temple. But there are more temples and pagodas on the island and you can climb to the summit of Mt. Misen for the view of the picturesque Inland Sea dotted by the little islands. The view is nice... Miyajima is tourist-crowded but still definitely worth a visit!
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Apr 04, 2010 02:00 PM Hiroshima...
No comments... Everyone knows this name. It was a sunny day when I was walking the streets of Hiroshima. Once in the ruin, now it is huge and elegant city with more then a million people living there. High buildings in the centre, heavy street traffic and street cars - that how they call trams. Some of their street cars are old junks driven by the drivers in the white gloves... Funny...
From the station I was walking about 2 kms to get to the Peace Park where A-bomb Dome stands like in 1945 - to remember those tragic days.
I took a photo of the Eternal Flame, memorial building, Korean and children monuments...
There is something else to see in Hiroshima: the old castle surrounded by the cherries in full blossom. I have been also there to take the pictures for you. I hope you will see them soon...
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Apr 03, 2010 02:00 PM For the Easter to Nagasaki
I start to use my Japan Rail Pass today. The first segment of rail travel will be to from Kagoshima to Nagasaki. With a pass I can reserve my seats in the trains for free but I think there is no need... We will see...
-------later;
The train was half empty. Japan Railways are efficient and operate on time. In Nagasaki I left my backpack in the station locker (400 yen)and went to visit the city.
What to see? There is of course A-bomb memorial and a new catholic cathedral (the bomb completly destroyed the old one). Some people say that the big statue in the Peace Park remind them Russian Socialism-time sculptures.
But Nagasaki has also interesting history: you will find there many old colonial buildings and monument of 26 crucified catholics...
I had a nice walk along the river with stone bridges and cherries in blossom... Nagasaki has tram lines going to all places of interest - the most convenient for the tourist is to buy day ticket for the trams (it costs 500 yen)
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