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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Apr 23, 2010 02:00 PM In the snows of Anadyr - Chukotka
You will need a special permit from the Russian authorities to enter Chukotka. They check the permit before you will go out from the plane in Anadyr. I got my permit after waiting more then 3 months. An agency from Moscow (the middlemen) helped me to arrange it. An they took some extra money. Now I know that you can address directly to the NORTOCO agency in Anadyr - Chukotka to arrange the permit. Contact person is Natalia Belyokonyeva ph +7 924 6677014 e-mail nortoco(at)mail.ru on such a way you will avoid the additional cost I paid.
There are two airlines who fly to Anadyr from Moscow: Transaero and Yakutia and once per two week there is the flight of Vladivistok Avia from Khabarovsk. But Vladivostok Avia is not reliable airline.
I put on me all my warm stuff from the backpack and took a long walk around Anadyr. There are two orthodox churches (the upper one is very nice) giant monument of St Nicolas watching the Bering sea and Lenin monument...
One of the two main streets is also called Lenin St. At Lenin Square I found an interesting Chukotka museum. Entry is free. And the lonely city bus going up and down is also free - can you imagine?
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Apr 22, 2010 02:00 PM Landed in Chukotka...
It was long flight over snowy Siberia... I celebrated my nameday (the day of St Wojciech - 23rd April) on the plane before we landed the remote airport in Anadyr.
Anadyr is the capital city of the Autonoumus Okrug of Chukotka - the Russian territory just opposite Alaska.
A lot of snow here, strong sun and minus 10 deg. Celsius (only minus 10 - thanks God!).
The airport lies some 8 kms north of the town - to get to the town you have to cross 3 kms-wide bay called Liman. Thanks God it is still completly frozen so the cars go freely on the ice.
Anadyr city surprises me. I expected to see half-ruined post-Soviet outpost like Tiksi. But what I see is a nicely painted town with some modern houses, cinema, supermarket...
Only 49000 people live on whole Chukotka and around 15000 in Anadyr.
I found the accommodation in the private homestay - I pay 900 rouble for the warm room on the 5th floor. Lets have a rest and adjust to the ne time zone...
Thanks, dear Friends to all of you who sent me a wishef for my Imieniny=the Nameday celebrated by Poles!
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Apr 20, 2010 02:00 PM My friends from Sakhalin...
I travel alone. But every day of such a round-the-world voyage brings me a new adventures and meetings with a new people. In remote Yuzno-Sakhalinsk I found many nice and helpful people: Natasha - talented painter, Olga - the photographer, Kurils lover, Anna - charming director of Tchekhov museum, Igor - knowledgeable writer and photographer... Thanks a lot for your help and the wonderful time we spent toogether...
Natasha and Olga took me to the countryside - in the great lanscape we drove to the still frozen Lake Tunaycha. Then onward to the coast to meet swans (they are coming here from the south announcing the springtime) and to enjoy the great sunset...
I am waiting for the air connection to Chukotka. Sorry to say goodbye to my new friends in Sakhalin...
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Apr 19, 2010 02:00 PM How to get to Kuril Islands?
This chain of volcanic islands is famous for its beauty and unspoiled nature... It is very hard to get the information how to get there. I came without complete knowledge. Now let you know more: Yuzho-Sakhalinsk and little port of Korsakov are the gateways. You need a special permit to go to the Kurils. Friendly "Intur-Sakhalin" (former Intourist) will help you to obtain the paper. Contact Ludmila Ivanova intourist-sakhalin(at)isle.ru ph.420278 -Russian only or Marina (same phone) who speaks basic English. They need 5-6 days to complete the procedure. The cost of the permit is eqiuiv. of 20 USD in Roubles.
Transport: there are erratic flights only to Kunashir Island, often cancelled due to the foggy wheather. The only passenger boat "Igor Forkhudinov" sails weekly visiting 3 island one by one (Iturup, Sikhotan,Kunashir) before returning to Korsakov and make same route in the opposite direction. One way fare is 3500 roubles, due to the big demand book well in advance!.
The ship start sailings in April/early May - it depends of ice situation. I come this year too early - they to not operate yet -the first sailing will be at the end of April...
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Apr 18, 2010 02:00 PM Yuzhno-Sakhaklinsk...
We have still here piles of snow along the streets and a white mountain Gorny Vozdukh overlooking the town. I took a long walk to see the places of interest. Probably the most interesting is the museum located in the former Japanese headquarters ( till 1945 Southern Sakhalin was the possesion of Japan - they call it Karafuto). It is pagoda -style building with interesting exibitions inside. Second-nice will be St Innokyenty Russian Orthodox Church. I found also new and nice catholic church of St James. During the Russian Empire time Sakhalin was a penal colony (like Australia in early days). Russian writer A Tchekhov was here in 1890 - his little museum is also worth to see in Kurilskaya St. I have lovely sunny weather, but the spring did not arrive here yet...
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Apr 17, 2010 02:00 PM Russian Far East
In the tiny Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk airport everything was smooth: no questions from immigrations, no questions or bribe suggestions at the customs (but they screen all luggage). In front of the airport (left side) bus 63 was waiting just for me (other 11 pax took a taxi). I paid 14 roubles for me and another 14 for my backpack (it is worth to have some Russian money - I did not see any exchange office in the airport).
Bus took me to the railway station. It is not busy (no rail connection to the mainland Russia) so the institution of the babushka-room does not exist here. I went to the cheapest hotel in town - Moneron Hotel just near the station. A room with share bath and WC costs already 1100 roubles (1 USD is worth 29 roubles). From the window I see Lenin Square with a huge statue of Lenin. In the reception you can read main local daily paper: Sovyetsky Sakhalin. No much changes...
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Apr 16, 2010 02:00 PM Time to say: Sayonara Japan!
From the instruction for the guests in my business hotel room:
A TAKEOUT OF BUILT-IN TOWELS IS PROHIBITION !.
Aren't they funny? Yes, I had a lot of fun here in Japan.
This is fortunately the last day of the validity of my Japan Rail Pass so I will travel to the airport without extra cost. In the morning I will took a train to Sapporo (4 hours) and then a special train to the New Chitose Airport. In the late afternoon I have my flight on little DASH Caribou. In the evening I should land in Russia. Please, keep your fingers crossed...
7 hours later:
Can you imagine? In the huge and modern Sapporo airport they have free internet facility in the international arrival hall! So even before your check-in you can use it - waiting for your flight. I am already after check-in to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. They said there will be 12 passengers only on this flight - what a luxury! It is the time to go to the security control. So, Sayonara Japan!
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Apr 15, 2010 02:00 PM The fourth corner of Hokkaido...
It took me four hours by express train to get from Sapporo to Kushiro... Kushiro is little-known, tidy town in the south-east of Hokkaido Island. Youth hostel is located here quite far from the station so I decided to try Japanese -business hotel- It is worth to know: paying only 600 yen more you get single room with private bath, fridge and TV, yukata cloth and unlimited usage of internet...
It is Palude Hotel - just 3 min walk from the station...
Kushiro area is known for its white cranes - one of the symbols of Japan. But I was traveling onward - to the easternmost point of Hokkaido - Cape Nosappu. At the beginning by futsu - local one-carriage train. Then by bus. I had sunny day! From the futsu window I saw on the way many deers... Then there is a bus from Nemuro to the cape.
And from the cape -where many monuments are erected - I saw Kuril Islands. Since the second war it is Russian territory, but claimed also by Japan since it is so close to Hokkaido...
Wonderful sunset on the elegant city bridge in Kushiro... It seems to be my last evening in Japan... Sentimental me... But I like Japan...
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Apr 14, 2010 02:00 PM Japan. The nostalgy of Otaru...
It is only 40 minutes by train (my railpass still works) from Sapporo to the little, charming port of Otaru. When Japan open the doors for the West at the end of 19th century Otaru was one of important gateways. Many buildings from that era remained... Warehouses and banks, there is also picturesque canal and romantic gas lamps around. One of streets - Nichigin-dori was called The Wall Street of The North due to the many banks. In the former building of the Bank of Japan now is a museum where you can see old banknotes and coins. Thick steel door of the treasurer will take you to the place where they kept money... Otaru is definitely worth to see!
Good news: with a help of my friend in Poland (thanks a lot Bogus!) I go electronic ticket for the just-introduced flight to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk on Saturday. I hope I will not be the only passenger and they will not cancel the flight... Russians sometimes are unpredictable...
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Apr 13, 2010 02:00 PM Sapporo beer... Jengis Khan for dinner...
I am back in Sapporo trying to find my way to Sakhalin.
This is quite young town - designed at the end of 19th century. Wide streets, high buildings and more then 1,8 mln inhabitants. World knew a little about Sapporo before the winter olympic games in 1972. I remember that another Wojciech from my country got a gold medal in jumping during this games.
The most atmospheric place in Sapporo is the old fish market - a little quarter of old houses where they sell more lobsters then fish... The landmark of the city is a old clock tower. Close to the old one is a new one TV tower - like a miniature of Eiffels in Paris...
Still snowing here. In the afternoon I took a train to get to the famous Sapporo brewery for the free tour. All production automated, only 100 people work there. At the end you have allowance of 3 glases to drink in 20 minutes... Thank you!
Back in Sapporo I decided to try local speciality - a meat dish called Jengis Khan. Not bad - in fact the first solid meal since my visit to my Polish friends near Tokyo... Bon apetit!
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