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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Feb 01, 2008 07:00 PM Sailing Banda Sea...
The sea is so far not so rough. I am the only white passenger on board (2000 pax capacity on the ship). I introduced myseff to the captain. Now I have free access to the bridge. Today in the late afternoon we reached Kota Ambon on the Moluccas (Maluku - they say). Till 2004 here were fights between Christians and Muslims. Now it is already peaceful... Nice, friendly people, but the knowledge of English is almost zero...
Tomorrow we will reach Bandaneira - famous Spice Island...
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Jan 31, 2008 07:00 PM Bau Bau - like Bora Bora...
The ship was 2 hours late. When I embarked they announced that they have a problem with one engine and they do not know if they will sail... Eventually we sailed at 1 am...
Today I visided first port: Bau Bau with narrow streets, fishing boats and tiny wooden houses...
I like this twin names like Bora Bora... There were more of them on my trail: Niki Niki, Puka Puka on the Pacific, Langa Langa in the Solomons.... Our ship is also sailing to (hmmm... I am ashamed... you know: F F) there willbe new interesting name to the collection...
Food on the ship in included in the price: three times a day plain rice. For breakfast you will get extra one egg and tea, for lunch extra tail of the fish and for dinner fish vith boiled vegies... But I am sailing so exciting waters...
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Jan 30, 2008 07:00 PM Lucky me: I have the ticket! But where is the ship?
In the PELNI office they sold me a ticket for today's sailing of the passenger "Bukit Siguntang". In five days it it should take me via the South Moluccas to Sorong in Papua...
I have been in the harbor - no ships there. They say that "Bukit" must come in the late afternoon. We will see! After driving Timor's bumby roads end to end I think I need a little rest aboard...
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Jan 28, 2008 07:00 PM I have my visa!
I am back in the capital of East Timor. I just got my visa to go back to the Indonesia.. OK. It will be laundry day. Can you imagine how dirty and sweaty am I?
Tommorow there will be another 12-hours drive in the minibus trough the bumpy mountain roads to the Indonesian Timor. In Kupang I hope to catch the boat going to the Moluccas and Papua... So far no idea how to get from Indonesia to the Philippines...
Keep your fingers crossed, please!
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Jan 27, 2008 07:00 PM East Timor - the real outback...
In the evening truck left me on junction - on the main road to Baucau. It was like 4.20 pm... The local people in the dirty, tiny shop were courious: Mulay wants to go west! No transport at all at this time!. And of course they were right!
100 m away I found "Medicos" - the remote medical mission from Japan... They are catholics... They were so surprised to see me there... They offered to me hospitality. Even basic rice taste so good if you are surrounded by the Japaneese friends!. I was telling my travel stories - also about climbing Mt Fuji...
Then they woke me up at 4 am: the only bus to Dili is departing between 4 and 5 am! I was staying on the road from 4 till 6.15 - the bus did not arrive! So I took a microbus to the next village (two tyres broken - one by one) then the next minibus, and the bus... It was very tiring way through the outback...
But thanks so much dear Japaneese Friends for your warm hospitality!
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Jan 26, 2008 07:00 PM It is me - yours Malay!
In the different parts of the world local people called me: ferenj, yovo, khaladja... Here in East Timor - when I am passing the villages the kids call me: MALAY, MALAY!
I was staying almost 2 hours at the outskirts of Baucau waiting for the transport heading further east - to Los Palos. Fortunately there was mikrolet (thet's hoe they call here crowded, crampy public microbuses) going east. I wanted to see Los Palos - once colonial town - now destroyed with many abandoned buildings. the main attraction is catholic church with national-style roof...
Then I found NISSAN truck going to Tutuala - the village on the eastern tip of Timor Island. 32 km of bumpy road. In the villages single samples of Fataluku-style houses - the locals do not care to preserve this interesting national style.
Do you remember my stay on Tutuila-American Samoa?
Now I visited Tutuala - the village with he nice view of the Timor Sea. Little pousada offers there overnight stay for 5 USD.
The beach is 8 km down... One more very remote place...
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Jan 25, 2008 07:00 PM Colonial Timor...
Till the independence in 1999 it was the colony of Portugal. I took a public bus to Baucau - second town of East Timor. There is no terminal in Dili - just come in front of Lita Supermarket in the morning - buses depart when full - no timetable and no chance to depart in the afternoon. Crowd inside - yes- there is a/c - the windows are open... the driver is the lord - stops for talks and to buy fresh fish. 3 USD only for 3 hours drive along the coast... You will pass nice villages under palms with poor churches... Nice hills overlooking the coast - great panoramic views...
In Baucau I found the guesthouse Laro sae close to mercado municipal - 10 USD per room. No fan, no mosquito net, no shower - mandi only - but this is old, clolonial, atmospheric place. There is more comfortable "Pousada Baucau" but they charge 55 USD per night.
Baucau has colonial - partly ruined Mercado building, the church and is located 330 m above the sea. o see nice beach I was walking down 5 km and 5 km uphill back. Good exercise but is was worth!
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Jan 24, 2008 07:00 PM There are Backpackers in Dili!
Dili - the capital of East Timor. 35 deg or more.... I see a lot of UN cars on the streets of the capital city. There are still refugee camps in different parts of the town... But after 1999 independence fightings and 2004 civil war it is quite now.
Can you imagine: there is little hostel in Dili run by Henry from Australia?... Dorm bed cost 10 USD and you have to care about your food... Imported food - mostly from Austalia is expensive. And they use here US dollar as a currency...
I just returned from the long walk to the end of the Bay where on the high rock Christ the King is looking to this poor country. Like in Rio - but who knows about the one in Dili? Great pictures from this rock...
In the morning I stayed in the line in the Indonesian Embassy - they issue only 50 visas per day. Single entry visa costs already 45 USD and they promised it will be ready in 3 working days - I have to go back to Indonesia! Tommorrow I plan to take the local bus further east - it will be another adventure I am sure!
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Jan 23, 2008 07:00 PM Show me your money & welcome to East Timor!
He asked: -Are you sure you really want to go that way?...
From Kupang - the capital of west (Indonesian) Timor there is daily minibus to Dili - the capital of new country: East Timor. 12-hours ride cost 170000 INR and they will pick you up from your hostel.
They wanted me to be ready at 5 am. They arrived at 6.20 and we departed at 7 am... The road through the mountains to the border is all paved. There are limited holes but it was repaired so many times that it made it very, very bumpy... Now I understand the initial question... When we reached the border after 9 hours I was sticked down to the plastic seat... Last part of the road - from Atambua ist the worst part of this international route. :)
On the indonesian side - no problems - stamp and let you go withe the back on the back through the mad to the gate. On the East Timor side they were suspicious: yes, you get visa on arrival - it costs 30 USD but you must show them your money for the costs of stay. I show. Welcome to the East Timor!
We had still almost 3 hours to drive to Dili along the picturesque coastal road...
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Jan 22, 2008 07:00 PM How to get the Indonesian Ships timetable...
Very hot and humid! Strong sun! Dream about a shower... Sorry - in the cheap Meliana Hotel I have only Mandi in my room. Mandi is Indonesian national version what you know as a bucket shower: Some water in the bucket and a big cup to spray yourself. Enjoy!
Indonesia has thousands of islands and a passenger fleet PELNI to serve them. I would like to use them... Timetable is the problem. I wanted to jump on TATAMAILAU going to the Maluku and Papua but today I know that it is broken and repairing in Surabaya shipyard. When will be ready for service - nobody in Pelni office knows. But if you will find the office you will see that they are computerized. Some staff know how to use it... Routings are published 2-3 weeks ahead and send by fax to the local branches. I have info about the other ship departing in 10 days - I hope is will be not broken on the way... A plate of plain rice -nasi- cost me 3000 INR (30US cents) - that's very healthy diet!
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