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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Dec 10, 2007 07:00 PM Wadi Rum - under the stars of the desert
I have been to Jordan before but it is my first visit to legendary Wadi Rum - place of haunting moonscapes, with hues of red and brown that change all day, twisted sandstone cliffs in a sea of fine sand. Much of "Lawrence of Arabia" was filmed here... Wadi Rum is located one hour drive from Aqaba. At the entry you have to pay 2 JOD entry fee.
The place is beautiful but commercialized. They charge 22-24 JOD per overnight in the Beduin tent and two meals... If you want to visit most picturesque places by 4WD vehicle it will cost you extra 65 JOD per car...
I was walking 4 hours by foot enjoying the great scenery... Then I stay in the tent at Beit Ali Camp - some 3 km before Visitor Centre (take care - they charge extra for each cup of the tea!). Night was very cold but what a stars in the sky!
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Dec 09, 2007 07:00 PM In the green Aqaba - Jordan
Port in Aqaba is located some 5 km south of the city centre - if you are coming by ferry you have to take a taxi. They charge 2 dinars per cab from locals so you should not pay more then 3. Your dollar is worth here only 0,70 dinar.
I stay in the old Petra Hotel close to the bazaar. (There is also new, luxury hotel of the same name). In the old one they charge 5 JOD per room with shared bath and I have great view of the Bay of Aqaba.
First impression from Jordan: it is more expensive then Egypt. So if you like the beaches it is better to stay on Egyptian coast of Sinai. In Aqaba city there is not mouch to see except the little Turkish fort... But the city is green and pleasant... They charge 1,50 dinar for one hour of slow internet.
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Dec 08, 2007 07:00 PM How slow is fast ferry to Aqaba...
If you want to cross Aqaba Bay by ferry you must be very patient. There are like 3 ferries per day: Two slow and one fast. Fast ferry is not so crowded and it costs 70 USD plus 50 pounds departure tax. Slow ferry is only 10 USD cheaper.
Go right along the port fence from the main gate - there is AB Maritime building to buy your ticket. Wait in the line - take care if you will convert the money - they are not honest... Wait 10 min or so for your passport and ticket.
Then you can go to the main port gate, go through the security... Than you have to find immigration and exit card in the big, dusty hall. Get you exit stamp and wait... Everything is pretty disorganized, no information...
The fast ferry shoild depart at 3 pm. We departed an 4.30...
1,5 hour sail... I am in Aqaba - in Jordan!
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Dec 07, 2007 07:00 PM Colored Canyon on your own...
I decided to visit the most interesting Sinai's canyon on my own... They requested 250 pounds for the day tour by 4WD car... From Nuweiba I went to the chackpoint on Cairo road. The policeman were surprised, but they put me on the truck. After some 8 km you must get off in the middle of nowhere - there is only little police post on the gravel road.
From this place it is 12 km to the canyon by 4WD bumpy road. I was waiting there more then 2 hours - the police do not allow you to walk... In the midday there were no cars going up the canyon. Policeman were very nice to me: they offered me a tea and chobz (local flat bread). I was already desperate when two jeeps turned up into the gravel road. They took me into the canyon!
The view from the rim is nice, but then you are walking down by narrow path, the main attraction are the gaps - tiny corridors in the 60-m high rocks. Be prepared for some exercises! We returned at dusk... Great tour - just for free!
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Dec 06, 2007 07:00 PM The road to Taba - Sinai
The coastal road from southern tip of Sinai (Sharm) goes north initially not on the coast but inland - through the mountains and desert. Only the last part of this route: from Nuweiba to Taba offers nice coastal panoramas. I decided to take a public bus to see this part of Sinai - the ticket from Dahab to Nuweiba or Nuweiba to Taba costs just 11 pounds (2 USD). I enjoyed the views - there were only 5 people on the bus and the driver was so kind to stop just before Taba for the picture of nice Saleh al Din castle built on the little island... I had 2 hours to explore tiny Taba.. Nice excursion just for 4 USD! I returned to Nuweiba for the night - there is plenty of empty beach camps to stay from 20 pounds a night...
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Dec 05, 2007 07:00 PM Snorkeling in the Blue Hole...
Egypt - Sinai. Dahab - once a silent backpackers outpost now is changing his face - they built here nice promenade along the coast. More and more hotels require payment in euro or dollars (30 euro per room). But thanks God there are still also "Beduin Camps" where you can stay for 25-30 pounds - like 6 USD. So if you came here - look for the camp like "Sindbad" .
Sun is strong - my laundry is almost dry after few hours...
I took today a long - 5 km -walk along the coast - north - to the Blue Hole. Located in the nice scenery it is great place for diving and snorkeling. You can rent there your mask and snorkel for 10 pounds and jump into the warm water to enjoy the wonderful views of coral gardens and nice fish... I saw already one Blue Hole - on Palau Island but that close to Dahab is easy accessible and offers great snorkeling. Many agencies offer day tours from Dahab to the canyons of Sinai. Typical price for day tour is 150 pounds. That's much... I'll try to find other solution to see picturesque places around...
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Dec 04, 2007 07:00 PM Sinai. Monastery of St Catherine...
This famous monastery is located in the narrow valley - just 4km - one hour walk from my camp in Al Milga. It is a must if you are visiting Sinai - the scenery is just fantastic.
Roman Empress Helena buit here in 4th century the chapel on the place where God from burning bush spoke to Moses... Then - in 6th century they built walled monastery of Sta Catherina.
The monastery is open from 9 to 12 only. Entry is free, but they charge 25 pounds for visiting the museum with containing iteresting icons and manuscripts (optional). You can see the ornate church and the a bit dirty chapel of Burning Bush. What is bad? - more and more people want to see the place and in the morning there is a crowd of tourists. It is better to come around 11 am to have little more privacy. Few people climb the rocky slope on the left side for the better picture of the monastery - I did! Hope to show you this picturesque spot soon.
In the afternoon I took the one-per-day bus from St Catherine to Dahab on the Gulf of Aqaba. Bus departs at 1 pm and it took 2 hours to reach Dahab. Cost: 16 pounds. Try to have front seat for the great views!
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Dec 03, 2007 07:00 PM Climbing legendary Mt Sinai
Most of people want to be at the summit of Mt Sinai at sunrise or at sunset. Hmmm... At about 3 am a horde of people from big tourist buses start from the Monastery car park. There are two trails to the top: camel trail (easier) and stone steps (hard). You have to have one local guide per group (50 pounds fee). Take warm closes and some water - there are also shops on the way to buy soft and hot drinks...
Sorry - I wanted to avoid the crowd and I started from the monastery at 11.30 am. The camel trail was completly empty and I had opportunity to enjoy in the silence the the great views of the mountains. I reached the summit after 2 hours non-stop climbing.
This is the place where God delivered his Ten Commandments to Moses... How does it look like? There is little chapel (locked) and little mosque (open, but nothing to see). The highlights of this place are the views of the mountains and the desert on the horizon...
Due to the cloudy sky I decided not to wait for the sunset - it took me another 1.5 h by hard steps to get down to the monastery. Very tiring but what a great day!
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Dec 02, 2007 07:00 PM By bus to Sinai...
There is only one bus per day going from Cairo to St Catherine in the center of desert Sinai Peninsula - it departs from Trugoman Station in Cairo (they call it now Cairo Gateway - just follow brown signs...). The ticket cost 40 pounds (1 USD=5.5 pounds) and it is better to buy it a day in advance. Dont trust them if they will tell you that it is 7 hours drive - it took us 8,5 hours.
We crossed Suez Canal by tunnel, then there was only desert around. This is not luxury, a/c bus - but they do not take more passengers then seats...
Unfortunately the most attractive part of juurney - through the oases was alrady in a dark.
The route ends at Al-Milga village near the mosque. The owners of small hotels and guesthouses are
waiting for travellers. I can recommend Sheikh Musa Camp - you can sleep there in the dorm with shared bath for just 15 pounds. Dinner cost 20, substantial breakfast -15... Great stars over you... Cup of tea at the fire... Good night traveller!
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Dec 01, 2007 07:00 PM Saying -Hallo again!- to the pyramids...
Cairo... Did you ever jump with a backpack to the running bus? That's how it works here. O my poor backbone!...
I'll tell you the true: I hate those huge, crowded, smoky cities - but is is just unexpected stopover...
Egypt is cheap. I stay in The Happyton hotel close to Ramses Square for 50 EGP (like 10 USD) in the single with bath and breakfast included.
In the morning I went by two public buses one by one to Giza - dirty cheap - 1 pound for 2 rides. You can also bargain with taxi driver - will be more then 25... The entry to the area will cost you 50 pounds... Be careful - they try to cheat you on every place: I have been asked 5 pounds for the bottle of coke (it costs 1 pound in the shop)... But the average Egyptian is helpful: they will wait on the stop with you to put you on the right bus.
It is hard to believe... 31 years ago I was crossing Africa from Tanzania to Egypt - then I saw the pyramids for the first time. They are still impressive. Just escape from the tourist crowd and enjoy their magnificence...
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