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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Dec 02, 2006 07:00 PM The biggest settlement on Galapagos
Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island. 12000 inhabitants - half of the total population of archipelago live here. A lot of bigger and smaller boats in the marina - little water taxis for one dollar will take you to the jetty.
In the town white houses surrounded by trees in blossom.
Just on the outskirts of the town - Darwin Scientific Center where you can learn for free about the land tortoises and the iguanas.
In the afternoon we took a tour to the highlands of the island. A lot of land tortoises live there in their natural environement. Some male longer then 1 m. Something very special! We have new cook on the boat - maybe there will be something else then rice and meat diet!
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Dec 01, 2006 07:00 PM Galapagos - Floreana Island
Morning landing on the brown beach of Punta Cormorant. Just 50 m from the beach there is lovely lagoon with pink flamingoes. We took a walk to the view point on the little peninsula - what a views of emerald waters and red rocks with cacti trees on the top! On the other side of peninsula there is white beach: 4 pairs of sea turtles were sailing there close to the coast - the guide said the they do sex... Hmmm...
Snorkeling at Corona del Diablo - picturesque group of rocks in the sea. I saw my first shark during this trip there... and a lot of color fish!
In the afternoon we visited Post Office Bay where since more then 2000 years sailors have their courtesy post box. Visitors are checking the box (in fact - the barell) and everybody is taking letters to his next destination... A lot of fun!
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Nov 30, 2006 07:00 PM Punta Suarez - Espaniola Island
We spend days on the island sailing during the night island to island 5-6 hours is normal... The motor of our junk boat makes such a noise that it is difficult to sleep - bring your earplugs with you!
In the morning we landed near the little lighthouse on Punta Suarez. Marine iguanas - a lot of them - were waiting for us. Close - at the sandy beach there were kindergarden for baby sea lions - they learn in the shallow water how to swim guarded by big male - the beachmaster. What a view - you can stay hours and look how they play...
We took a walk alond the coast where we found hundereds nests of marine birds: masked boobies, blue-footed boobies and waves albatrosses. At the end of the trail there is imposing blowhole with the fountain of the water up to 25 m high.
Evening in the picturesque Gardener Bay with sea lions on the long, empty beach...
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Nov 29, 2006 07:00 PM Galapagos - dancing with sea lions...
Visiting Galapagos you are always escorted by licensed guide - he says what is allowed or not - that´s why the animals are not shy if you are close to them. On the Bachas Beach we ware walking just 1 m from the laying sea lions, iguanas... There were also flamingoes in the little lagoon. Sea turtles and mantas were sailing close to our boat... Just fantastic!
Today in the morning we were sailing to the South Plaza Island. Dry landing on the little stone jetty where six or seven sea lions lie... Long walk in the dry landscape whe thousands of sea iguanas live... Many photo opportunities...
In the afternoon we were sailing to Santa Fe Island and snorkeling from the boat. For the first time in my life I was swimming with sea lions. They were very courious seeing me in the water and I really din not know what to do when they come close just looking eye to eye into my mask... No, they are not dangerous... It is one of this experiences of your life. Unforgettable! Of course there were plenty of color fish but there are also other places to see them...
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Nov 28, 2006 07:00 PM Junk boat to Bachas...
Heading to Galapagos you must fly first - the archipelago is located about 1000 km west of the continent. There are 3 flights per day and the RT fare is 391 USD tax inclusive.
After 2-hours flight I landed on the Baltra Island - they dont care about the passport but about 100 USD fee to be paid by every foreigner entering Galapagos - they call it National Park fee. OK! Transfer is included in the price of sailing - my guide was waiting for me in front of the terminal building. The bus took us to the nearest bay where my ¨Cormorant¨ anchored. First sea lions were waiting at the jetty on the banks constructed for passengers. And the boat: -Wow! Can you imagine little, crampy and old boat dancing on the waves? Four crew only... (What you expected - this is the chapest available...) They were just repairing the boat motor - I and 10 other passengers were waiting 4 hours, but thanks God they did it... Welcome aboard! When the motor is on you must shout to the other so they can listen what you want... We are sailing to the Bachas Beach on the Santa Cruz island!
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Nov 27, 2006 07:00 PM ... to Galapagos, Galapagos...
Ecuador. In the morning I took a bus from Riobamba to Quito - road transport is dirty cheap in Ecuador - for 4-hours drive I paid 3,85 USD. And this was not a junk bus like in Pakistan!
I was lucky today: when were passing volcano Chimborazo (completly covered yesterday) I had a lovely view of this majestic mountain with the top covered by snows...
Now I am in Quito. week ago, after landing here I was shopping few hours for the best option of the tour to the legendary Galapagos Islands. Here is a lot of agencies and the prices vary from one place to the other. For same boat and days the prices difference was as high as 90 USD! Finally I bought the best, 8days/7 nights option at PAM tours - they had the best price and the company looks reliable.
So after a night in Gringolandia, tommorrow morning I am flying to the Galapagos to board immediately my boat. It is hard to know how will be the net access there - it is not a liner but a boat for just 10 passengers. Do not panic if the you will get next message from me after a week... Ahoy!
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Nov 26, 2006 07:00 PM How to avoid the fake money...
I am still in Riobamba - Ecuador 2600 m above sea level. The day after elections the situation so far is peaceful... I planed for today excursion to the first hut on the slopes of the volcano Chimborazo - the highest in Ecuador but the coluds are covering the mountains around and since it cost quite a lot of money (transport by rented car 35 USD for two and entry to the Nat.Park 10 USD pp) I decided to change my plan. I visited little village of Guano not far from Riobamba. Guano is famous for the handmade production of the carpets and the nice scenery around.
I already mentioned that the local currency is USD - the US notes, US coins including onedollar and the local centavos with the value of the US cents... If you are bringing here US cash you are OK, but... There is a lot fake dollars in circulation so the shops do not accept 100 USD notes to avoid problem. I saw also in some hostels warnings: we do not accept 100USD notes. Well - the advice is: bring as much as possible small USD denominations. If the locals will give you change in USD ask for the coins - the notes in circulations are so dirty that is is not easy to check if they are fake or not... Good luck!
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Nov 25, 2006 07:00 PM Ecuador - on the roof of the train...
Did you ever travel on the roof of the train? In Ecuador it seems to be one of the main tourist attractions: the narrow gauge Andean Railroad was buillt ant the nnd of 19th century. It goes from Quito in the Highlands to Guayaquil on the coast.
Now only one segment - from Riobamba to Sibambe is open. The most spectacular part: Alausi - Sibambe will take you from the level 2600 m to 1600 m in the breathtaking mountain scenery via the seriesof switchbacks carver in the rock, advancing and reversing... Yes, it is the great fun! I bought my ticket day in advance at Riobamba station - it cost 11 USD to go down to Sibambe and back to Alausi. We started at 7.30 am. Unfortunately on Sunday it was not the steam train but one-carriage ferrobus, but still with the places on the roof. We reached Sibambe at 11 am - taking pictures of the famous rock El Nariz the Diablo (The Devils Nose). Then we returned climbing the mountains to Alausi, where on Sundays they have colorful market. Another photo opportunities...
I returned from Alausi to Riobamba at 3 pm by bus (1,50 USD). A lot of noise on the streets - trumping cars are crawling the city with flags and music. They have presidential elections today!
I saw yesterday trucks with soldiers in the town. I hope the end of the election will be peaceful... You never know - it is South America!
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Nov 24, 2006 07:00 PM Market day in Guaranda - Ecuador
It is worth to stop in Guaranda if you will come there at the end of the week - Saturday is the market day when people from the mountain settlements are coming to the town to sell and buy goods. It is hard to believe but I was the only tourist strolling around the colonial streets and the bazars and enjoying the atmosphere. Ladies from the countryside wear here fancy white hats, embroided blouses and few skirts, one over the other... They carry babies and all loads on their back. They do not like to be photographed so you must be very discret. I took some good photos, but one angry lady was also throwing potatoes - Esculpe!-' was not enough...
In the afternoon I took another bus climbing to the snows: the ride from Guaranda to Riobamba took us 2,5 hours and cost just 2 USD... Tomorrow I want to travel by second famous Andean Railway... I hope the weather will be clear!
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Nov 23, 2006 07:00 PM Riding 4000 m above sea level.
Most people travelling to the south of Ecuador go directly via Ambato to Riobamba. But those who like to travel far from the beaten track have an interesting option: to take the picturesque mountain road climbing to 4000 m from Ambato to Guaranda and to proceed by Guaranda - Riobamba route.
I just did it and now I know why they write in the guide book that it is not the road for faint-hearted people. The driver was driving like crazy man, approeching the serpentines with the speed of 60 km per hour and more... Local people in the bus did not react - for them it is normal... Through the window I saw lamas and vicunias and picturesque villages on the slopes of the mountains.
In Guaranda I find accommodation in Hotel Bolivar (10 USD per room with bath) There was nice view from my window - Guaranda is surrounded by seven hills - sometimes they call it Rome of the Andes.
Food is inexpensive in Ecuador: in the market they charge 4 cents for banana, 40 for papaya, the rolls cost 6 cents pp. The bottle of San Miguel rhum cost just 2,50 USD. But take care ' you are in the high mountains!
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