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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Dec 07, 2006 07:00 PM Bye-bye Ecuador!
I am departing. It is time to get ready for the early morning flight. I reconfirmed my flight to the USA. Unpleasant surprise: they charge 31.60 USD departure tax - it is never included in the price of the ticket!
It was my second visit to Ecuador... I must say that Ecuador is very interesting destination for the backpackers: it has mountains, folklore, architecture and of course beautiful and unspoiled Galapagos - my dream who came true. It is cheap to travel city - to city. The accommodation is inexpensive and plentiful. Go Galapagos! Most of the people are nice to the foreign visitors. But why they do not return smiles? Yes, I know - I am still a gringo...
Bad news: There were military coup on Fiji where I am going soon. Well, we will see... Another adventure ahead!
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Dec 06, 2006 07:00 PM Quito - on World Heritage list
The old town in Quito is one of the most interesting places in South America is you like old architecture.
Colonial churches, convents, narrow streets full of the old houses with iron balconies... It is worth to spend there few hours. Come in the morning - some churches are closed in the mid-day and in the afternoon it is often cloide in December... The No 1 is Compania church - probably with the most ornate you can find in Ecuador. They charge 2 USD entry fee from foreigners - it is imposing but people do not pray there. To see the live church go to San Francisco - it is not as bright as Compania but you can see what the locals do. The entry is free of course but you must pay another 2 USD if you want to visit the monastery nearby.
It is better to be back in your hotel before the dusk. Gringolandia where most of chesp hostels are located has still bad reputation. If you want to try the nightlife - leave all valuables in the hotel... It is South America...
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Dec 05, 2006 07:00 PM End of the sail - are the tips obligatory?
It is my last day on the boat... Sunny but rough sea. In the morning we landed for only one hour on North Seymour Island famous for the nesting magnificent frigate birds. Can you imagine the big, red baloon under the neck of the male frigate - they want to attract the female on this way...
Our guide distributed two envelopes - tips for the crew and for the guide. Tips are not obligatory, but are expected... I disembarked at Baltra Island where the main airport of archipelago is located.
In the afternoon I took the flight from Baltara back to Quito.
Bye-bye wonderful islands - this will be the highlight of my RTW voyage - for sure!
In Quito I found new nice place to stay: Sunrise Hostal in Calama Street - Gringolandia. They charge only 10 USD per roomy room with bath... Have a rest, sailor!
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Dec 04, 2006 07:00 PM The best view on Galapagos?
There is little but very nice Bartolome Island close to the Santiago... The 600-m trail will take you up to the 114-m view point. And the view is just fantastic! Yes, they show this panorama very often on the postcards and in the tourist brochures. Two bays with the white beaches, emerald and blue waters of the ocean, volcanic peaks of Santiago and the Pinnacle or Sugar Loaf - the lonely rock where we will snorkel...
In the afternoon interesting walk on the fresh (one century old) lava flow on Santiago Island... One of the most interesting days on the Galapagos. Very strong sun - bring your sunscreen otherwise you will suffer!
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Dec 03, 2006 07:00 PM Dancing on the waves - Rabida Is
Is our boat safe? We had an excident... During the inter-island sail one of us - a nice guy from the USA felt down into the sea. Nobody saw this moment. Fortunately one of the crew looking into kilwater recognized the head of unknown man on the wave... Capitan stopped and turned the boat. We approech the feral fellow and took him out the water. Brrr... It is hard to imagine what can happend...
Today we had two landings: on the beach of little Rabida Island and then on Santiago Island. Snorkeling again - the crew is renting mask and snorlek for 10 USD per sail - no reason to carry your own to Galapagos. The bottle of beer on board costs 3 USD (in Quito - 0,90 USD). No comments...
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Dec 02, 2006 07:00 PM The biggest settlement on Galapagos
Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island. 12000 inhabitants - half of the total population of archipelago live here. A lot of bigger and smaller boats in the marina - little water taxis for one dollar will take you to the jetty.
In the town white houses surrounded by trees in blossom.
Just on the outskirts of the town - Darwin Scientific Center where you can learn for free about the land tortoises and the iguanas.
In the afternoon we took a tour to the highlands of the island. A lot of land tortoises live there in their natural environement. Some male longer then 1 m. Something very special! We have new cook on the boat - maybe there will be something else then rice and meat diet!
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Dec 01, 2006 07:00 PM Galapagos - Floreana Island
Morning landing on the brown beach of Punta Cormorant. Just 50 m from the beach there is lovely lagoon with pink flamingoes. We took a walk to the view point on the little peninsula - what a views of emerald waters and red rocks with cacti trees on the top! On the other side of peninsula there is white beach: 4 pairs of sea turtles were sailing there close to the coast - the guide said the they do sex... Hmmm...
Snorkeling at Corona del Diablo - picturesque group of rocks in the sea. I saw my first shark during this trip there... and a lot of color fish!
In the afternoon we visited Post Office Bay where since more then 2000 years sailors have their courtesy post box. Visitors are checking the box (in fact - the barell) and everybody is taking letters to his next destination... A lot of fun!
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Nov 30, 2006 07:00 PM Punta Suarez - Espaniola Island
We spend days on the island sailing during the night island to island 5-6 hours is normal... The motor of our junk boat makes such a noise that it is difficult to sleep - bring your earplugs with you!
In the morning we landed near the little lighthouse on Punta Suarez. Marine iguanas - a lot of them - were waiting for us. Close - at the sandy beach there were kindergarden for baby sea lions - they learn in the shallow water how to swim guarded by big male - the beachmaster. What a view - you can stay hours and look how they play...
We took a walk alond the coast where we found hundereds nests of marine birds: masked boobies, blue-footed boobies and waves albatrosses. At the end of the trail there is imposing blowhole with the fountain of the water up to 25 m high.
Evening in the picturesque Gardener Bay with sea lions on the long, empty beach...
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Nov 29, 2006 07:00 PM Galapagos - dancing with sea lions...
Visiting Galapagos you are always escorted by licensed guide - he says what is allowed or not - that´s why the animals are not shy if you are close to them. On the Bachas Beach we ware walking just 1 m from the laying sea lions, iguanas... There were also flamingoes in the little lagoon. Sea turtles and mantas were sailing close to our boat... Just fantastic!
Today in the morning we were sailing to the South Plaza Island. Dry landing on the little stone jetty where six or seven sea lions lie... Long walk in the dry landscape whe thousands of sea iguanas live... Many photo opportunities...
In the afternoon we were sailing to Santa Fe Island and snorkeling from the boat. For the first time in my life I was swimming with sea lions. They were very courious seeing me in the water and I really din not know what to do when they come close just looking eye to eye into my mask... No, they are not dangerous... It is one of this experiences of your life. Unforgettable! Of course there were plenty of color fish but there are also other places to see them...
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Nov 28, 2006 07:00 PM Junk boat to Bachas...
Heading to Galapagos you must fly first - the archipelago is located about 1000 km west of the continent. There are 3 flights per day and the RT fare is 391 USD tax inclusive.
After 2-hours flight I landed on the Baltra Island - they dont care about the passport but about 100 USD fee to be paid by every foreigner entering Galapagos - they call it National Park fee. OK! Transfer is included in the price of sailing - my guide was waiting for me in front of the terminal building. The bus took us to the nearest bay where my ¨Cormorant¨ anchored. First sea lions were waiting at the jetty on the banks constructed for passengers. And the boat: -Wow! Can you imagine little, crampy and old boat dancing on the waves? Four crew only... (What you expected - this is the chapest available...) They were just repairing the boat motor - I and 10 other passengers were waiting 4 hours, but thanks God they did it... Welcome aboard! When the motor is on you must shout to the other so they can listen what you want... We are sailing to the Bachas Beach on the Santa Cruz island!
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