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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Jan 30, 2005 07:00 PM One way to Africa...
Yes, the last expensive way from Europe to Africa is by ferry via the Strait of Gibraltar. From Malaga bus station there are few buses per day to Algeciras. The ride cost 9,30 euro. Then you must walk 10 min to the ferry terminal - there are ferries to Ceuta almost every 2 hours - the last expensive one-way cost 19.30 euro. It was nice, sunny weather when we passed the picturesque Rock of Gibraltar. In the distance I saw the high mountains of Africa. After 35 minutes (it was fast, hydrofoil ferry) we entered part of Ceuta.
Welcome back to Africa!!. Ceuta is little Spanish enclave on African continent. Strange place! There is nice cathedral, huge city walls with deep mot, picturesque marina. But the real jewel is a little church of Our Lady of Africa - do not miss it!
Budget accommodation is expensive - after long search we found 4-bed room in Pensione Real for 60 euro (15 per person - expensive!) Tomorrow I want to to cros the border to Morocco - city bus no L7 to the frontier cost 0,55 euro. And then the real african adventure will start!
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Jan 29, 2005 07:00 PM For 29 euro to Malaga...
It was very good deal! I paid just 29 euro for almost 3-hours flight with Condor airline from Berlin to Malaga in Spain. Surprisely they even serve free sandwiches and soft drinks on the flight. We landed at 5.30 pm... Spain... I have been to Malaga as a student many years ago... Just at the door of the terminal is a stop of the city bus no.19 - costs only 1 euro, no baggage limit but have your coins ready when boarding. This bus will take you to the center. To the fancy avenues with a rows of palm trees. (There were snow in Berlin!) Spain... Nice, helpful people... Pretty ladies... Close to the cathedral there is cheapest accommodation in the city: Pensione Cordoba. Old house, very basic by acceptable for the backpacker (14 euro per person, shared bath). We took evening walk around the old part of the town - very nice illumitated. At the end we taste the wine in the small bodeguita - 1 euro per glass. To our trip through Africa!
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Jan 28, 2005 07:00 PM BACK TO AFRICA !
I am coming back to Africa! All experienced globetrotters know that Africa is the hardest continent to travel. But it also rewards you on the trail with more adventure and unexpected impressions. The idea of the expedition which will allow me to cover all Africa - "from end to end" was growing in my head since many years. And now I am ready for departure... My old rucksack is already packed up, this evening train will take me through the first stage - to Berlin. I think I have ahead maybe the biggest challenge of my traveler's life: the route marked through the hardest, unknown to me African countries. They are still like a mystery... You will find the draft of my route here: http://www.kontynenty.tpi.pl/Transafricana1.jpg but who knows - maybe I'll be forced to modify it... If there will be internet access on the trail (could be hard this time) you will find the news from the route in my travel log. Keep your fingers crossed, please!
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Dec 18, 2004 07:00 PM The longest delay in my travelling...
Lufthansa staff said they are not responsible for the mist
on the runway so they do not pay for our meals...
We started from Asmara to Frankfurt with 20-hours delay.
All onward connection of course were broken.
I spent 6 hours in Frankfurt waiting for flight to Copenhagen
and then another 6 hours in Copenhagen for flight to
Gdansk.
Finally today at 6 pm I saw again Gdansk covered by white snow. Minus 2 degrees Celsius. 30 hours after my scheduled time of arrival!
Welcome home! Tomorrow I'll buy the christmas tree!
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Dec 17, 2004 07:00 PM Bad luck! Waiting in the airport..... Africa...
Yes, I have beeen in the Asmara airport on time, paid 20 USD departure tax (USD cash only) and I got my boarding pass...
But Lufthansa plane did not arrive...
We are waiting already 10 hours.
Do you think LH is reliable carrier?
So far they did not distribute any vouchers for the meals....
Nobody knows exactly if and when the flight will arrive and depart...
Blue sky, hot morning sun, Africa....
Keep your fingers crossed - I want to be home for Christmas!
Will I?
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Dec 16, 2004 07:00 PM Dreaming of the white Christmas... in Africa
It is my last day in Eritrea. Here are already christmas trees in the windows of the shops and my closest internet cafe "Olympia" (close to central post office - recommended!). No water in the hotel in the morning - I am still in Africa...
It is the time to spend the rest of my Nakfa for small gifts, to take the cheapest option to go to the airport (bus no.1 from the main street - costs 1 Nakfa= US 5 cents) and to take flight home in the evening...
It is hard for me to imagine to be for Christmas out of Poland...
The voyage to the Horn of Africa is almost completed - is was very interesting, adventurous and surprising... I would like to recommend to you Eritrea - just read previous entries in my travelbook and you will understand why... The cheapest option to fly here is Eritrean Airlines flight from Rome or Milan. Good luck and Merry Christmas to You!
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Dec 15, 2004 07:00 PM Climbing to Debre Bizen...
It takes one hour of drive by public bus from Asmara to Nefasit.
Get off at the school. The path to the mountain orthodox monastery of Debre Bizen starts here. You problably will be surrounded in a minute by kids. Everybody want to be your guide. Be polite, say thank you... Their knowledge of english is limited to few words only. You really do not need the guide. Just follow the path - all way up to the top of the ridge, there is no descends or forks on the way... No entry for the women or any female animals... Take enough water - no streams or wells... Nice mountain views, strong sun, a lot of sweat... After 2,5 hours of climbing you will probably reach the monastery on the ridge. 2400 m above sea level. It was established in 1386 by abune Filipos. You are above the clouds. Picturesque small houses made of stone, locked church, medieval atmosphere. Nobody will ask about your permit issued in Asmara. Nobody speaks english. The monks will invite you to the guest room where you will see portrait gallery of the abbots (take your shoes off). You will also get a cup of tea and home-made bread. You will sign the visitors book. Very few names there since the beginning of the year... Do not be afraid to ask if you can see one of their houses or cells - they are very primitive...
Control your time... You need again about 2 hours on the stoney path to be back in Nefasit... I was walking all the back route in the mist - wet but happy to see such unusual place!
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Dec 14, 2004 07:00 PM What a nice peple! But what a bureaucracy!
Asmara, capital of Eritrea... It is hard to believe, but if you want to visit any place of tourist interest out of Asmara, Massawa or Keren you need to apply for the special permit, or sometimes even two permits...
I want to visit the monastery in the mountains. People from the Ministry of Tourism sent me to one of the churches in Asmara to obtain the permit. Sorry, not this church... They sent me to the other one. OK!. Application form, passport, payment of 70 Nakfa. ~Wait.... Here you are...
To visit archeological sites in the south of Eritrea you have to go first to the tourist info office opposite the cathedral. Passport, the plate number of the car you go - they will fill the form. Then they will send you with that form to the stationery (around the corner after Ambassador Hotel) to make 2 copies (3 Nakfa). When you will be back you will get your permit signed and stamped... But it is not yet the happy end! Then you must take a bus no. 12 to the National Museum. Present there you permit from the tourist office, pay 50 Nakfa - and you will get your next permit!
Then you can go to the travel agency (I recommend TRAVEL HOUSE close to the post office - looks the most reliable) to organize your tour...
I spent all day arranging my permits... I am tired... But I still think that the people here are very nice!
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Dec 13, 2004 07:00 PM The most proud and most honest people in Africa?...
Today I took a bus ride back to the capital city of Eritrea...
The trip started at the dusty square in Karen in front of the former railway station building. No more rails here... The station stands now surrounded by sand and dust as a strange relics of the former glory of the colonial railway...
There were no bus when I reached terminal - but the people heading to Asmara were waiting forming straight line in the middle of the dusty square. I - again the only white person - went with my backpack to the end of the line... They were little courious of that but I registered many smiles of symphaty...
Then we spent 4 hours on the road climbing picturesque mountains. At the destination driver called me to give me 3 Nakfa of change (like 15 US cents).... That's like they are here:
proud, honest, helpful... I visited already about 20 african countries and I did not meet such a nation on the Black Continent... Come here and try before it will change!...
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Dec 12, 2004 07:00 PM On Monday only - you won't forget!
Every Monday morning two kilometers north of Karen takes a place big livestock market... Fascinating event - especially for the foreigner! I spent there more then 3 hours... Of course the most exotic section of the market is camel's place. There were about two hundereds of them - from big ones to funny babies... The adult camel cost up to 10000 Nakfa... Roaring, dust, men in traditional costumes, transactions, complaints, trial rides... And me - the only white person in the cowd of approximately 2000 people and animals! Did you see camel market in Tunisia? How many camels and how many tourist buses were there?
On Keren market I was free to take pictures (trying to protect my camera from ever-present dust)... There were also donkey section close to camels and - on the upper terrace - goats and the cattle... Unforgettable day! Plan to be here on Monday!
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