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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
............ 
Mar 16, 2005 07:00 PM Sailing Lake Chad....
Yes - it is possible to rent a pirogue in the small remote village
on the coast of the lake. But the main problem is how to get to the lake! It is like 120 km from the capital city of Ndjamena -
no local transport available for foreigner....
You can rent a car in the Novotel hotel in Ndjamena - after bargaining it is like 120000 CFA per good a/c landcruiser.
In the villege you will pay 10000 to the local corrupted policeman and 10000 per hour for the pirogue... It is worth!
What a unusual place! The lake is shallow but there is a lot of birds, local people fishing - and the lanscape on the way is also attractive....
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Mar 13, 2005 07:00 PM I am in Ndjamena!
Yes, after two days of the driving by junk 4WD cars I reached the capital city of Chad. It is police country... Go to the main olice station just after arrival. You need 2 photos and 2 forms to fill until you will be registered. Ndjamena is very hot place.
There is suprisely nice cathedral, long Cherles de Gaulle main street and Marche where you will find fruits and vegetables - after your desert adventures. I stay at the Aurora Hotel for 8000 CFA /room with fan and bath/; the city is located on the Chari river - you will not see famous Lake Chad here...
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Mar 11, 2005 07:00 PM Waiting in the desert...
Niuigimi is Niger border town. No hotel. But there is a guy who know some english and he will be ready to host you in his house while waiting for the truck to Chad. Ask for Modo Gaptia.
You will sleep on the sand in their courtyard... If you are lucky you will find your truck after day o two... If you have companions you will be able to rent a 4WD car to nearest settlement in Chad: BOL - it cost us 250 000 CFA and full day of desert driving...
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Mar 10, 2005 07:00 PM How to get overland to Chad?
You will get your Chad visa in Niamey in one day...
Then travel trough Niger overland; From Zinder you must reach remote village of Diffa - there is local bus once a week - on Thu - I was lucky to jump on...
Departure in the dark at 5 am - arrival to Diffa at 4 pm.
Then look for the transport to Nuigimi. If you are lucky to find companions you can rent a 4WD car - write a contract in french. Make sure that petrol is included in the price.
After hard bargaining it was 66 USD for bumpy and sandy 130 km - like 5 hours drive... It is real African Outback!
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Mar 09, 2005 07:00 PM Zinder - Niger - 42 deg Celsius...
We were lucky! The once-a-week local bus passed throuth the sannds, gravels of the desert and after 7 hours ride in the dust and heat with friendly local people I landed yesterday in Zinder Niger. Central Hotel is colonial, run-down but charges me 6500 per room with noisy fan. Water is present in the early morning and late afternoon only; showers do not work....
I visited sultan s palace made of mud... Interesting...
Very few tourist call here.
One MINUTE of internet cost 200 CFA!!!
Now the new problem appears: how to enter the Tchad?
Fortunately there is again once-a -week public bus to Diffa at just tomorrow at 4.30 am - then there will be not public transport... It rises like the biggest challenge of this voyage... I am sure there will not be internet untill Ndjamena... Keep your fingers crossed, please!
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Mar 03, 2005 07:00 PM Tenere - The Desert of The Deserts...
It will cost you from 120 000 per day incl fuel to rent the landcruiser withe guide and local driver. 4-5 people share...
We spent 5 days driving through Air Mountains and TENERE Desert - the most beautiful part of Sahara. They call it in the literature The Desert of The Deserts.
Can You imagine 400-m high orange sand dunes? Here they are... close to the dark mountains... The scenery is unforgettable... We were driving from the morning till evening and sleeping under the starry sky of Sahara just on the sand...
Yes I can recommend our reliable guide from Agadez: ATTAMAN Hadja Ahamada and his driver Bashir
Phone +227440506 atman_hadja@hotmail.com - both inteligent, representing high skills - just try them
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Mar 01, 2005 07:00 PM Agadez Niger - what a place!
It is fantastic place, but avoid to stay in the center of the town - you will meet nasty souvenirs sellers every hour... The best option for the backpackers is Agreboun Hotel - 15 min walk from gare routiere - they charge 7 000 CFA per double with shower... We started from the animal market - camels, donkeys, goats, dust... But nice Tuareg people - proud and always ready for your photo...
Sandy, dusty streets reminds Timbuktu... The highlight is Grand Mosque with its mud minaret - you can even climb the tower paying some money to the guardian. But the best place to be is the terrace of the Air hotel at the evening where they serve cold Niger Beer for 1000 CFA so you can sip it and listen to the voices of Saharan town...
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Feb 27, 2005 07:00 PM NIAMEY - the capital of Niger
Heat - more then 40 deg in the shade during the day. Cold coca-cola /225 CFA/ is like a dream. You can drink and drink... I am resting, cleaning and preparing for the next stage of my Transafricana.
The capital of the one of the poorest countries has very nice center - with fancy hotel and new government buildings.
Strong army presence - do not try to photograph the only bridge on the river. Catholic Mission near the cathedral is the best and safe escape for backpackers - they charge only 8000 CFA for twin room with shower and fan.
Tomorrow I plan to take a bus to distant Agadez /16000 CFA - air-con - what a luxury in the desert!/ - new adventures ahead!
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Feb 25, 2005 07:00 PM 32 hours on the truck...
Gao - Mali. They wanted us to buy the ticket to Niamey in advance: 12500 CFA /9000 for local people/. Depart: 2 pm. We started from Gao at 4 pm: on the old Renault lorry there were packs of corn, smuggled goods and 60 squeezed passengers. This is all- gravel and sand route. Desert, sun and dust... Many unexpected stops /for praying/, shortage of water, border check-points in the middle of nowhere.... Yes - they /Malians/ charge 1000 CFA just for the stamp in your passport but do not register that you cross the border... Be prepared for the worst....
It was one of my hardest experiences in Africa...
But at the end I reached Niamey - the capital of Niger.
Here I am - and again I have /slow!/ access to the internet!
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Feb 23, 2005 07:00 PM Harmattan in Gao - the last frontier....
6 am bus to Gao, 6 hours of rather bumpy driving due to the huge holes in asphalt. Many police check-points... Then ferry on the Niger river.... We are in Gao. The harmattan dusty, sandy wind from the desert is blowing... Horrible time... Gao - once important trade point with caravans passing by has XVI-century tomb of Askia to visit /2000 CFA entry but the best and freeview is from the roof of nearby house/
It is worth to stay in Gao in run-down colonial hotel Atlantide - do not forget to bargain - we paid 10000 CFA per room with fan and shower. Take a pirogue trip along the coast of Niger - unforgetable experience /8000 CFA per hour/
I am looking for the transport from Gao to NIGER - the one/per week bus goes on Monday and is seems that the lorry will be the only solution...
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