After visiting Pilsn and Znojmo a few years ago I always wanted to explore the Czech Republic a bit further. It is such a different world to neighbouring Germany, well every part of Europe is different to the next!
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The old city from the hill near the bus-station
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The aim of the group was at first to hit the centre of the Czech beer world “Budweis” very hard but while researching, our attention was directed always more to “Krumlov”, the nearby medieval town for its charm and UNESCO designation as a world heritage site and “Budweiss” then just became a daytrip.
Both cities are only a 3 to 4 hour drive to from Münich yet most still don't take the avantage of the fallen "iron-cutain"! Reasonable prices, basic accommodation and very important; festive food, entertainment and culture galore.
HISTORY: A whole line of landowners and lords built and expanded, rebuilt and renovated the city of Krumlov, starting from the twelfth century. That is a lot of time to build something very very special. Some damage happened near the end of the 30 years war when the the Swedes attacked (I didn’t know they came down so far south) but most of the damage was due to 30 years of communist rule. Recently the whole town and castle have been under various beautification and renovation projects resulting in a small city that can be very proud of it’s history, culture and very special atmosphere.
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| Favourite spots: |
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"Horni hrad" - the middle part of the castle
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The castle is a fairy tale experience even better that of “Neuschwanstein” in Bavaria. A pleasant slow climb via various inclined passages and courtyards takes one from the old town on the Vlata River about 100m up the lower castle tower or about the same height to the gardens beyound the famous “ Na plášti“ bridge, the whole lenght more than a kilometer.
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| What's really great: |
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Street service of a Bakery
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One can walk around with a map without being glared at! We like exploring he narrow cobble steets finding the historical sites and enjoying a place with authentic local folk as guests without being ripped off. This is not a tourist trap but an honest invitation to experience Bohemia. One can choose from a wide range of accomodation, restaurants and services. You will find smiling backpackers and the elite walking side-by-side, some drivin their fancy cars through the old-town, which is allowed but quite narrow. The hostels (from €10/night), food (€6 for a feast) and for services like taxi (about $1/mile). A pint of the best beer in the world costs is served cold for only 80c here!
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| Accommodations: |
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Whereever, cake for breakfast!
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Hotel prices in nearby industrial and business influenced Budweis were like anywhere in Europe (from €50) but in Krumlov there are hundreds of price-worthy hostels and guest-houses. For groups, there are a lot of rentable dormetries or furnished apartments to rent for 4 persons up for €12 - €35pp on a daily basis. Remember that one is more out-of-house that in-house here and one basically just needs a bed and shower, we were on a pub-cruise and our hostel at €20pp was perfect, needing only basically bed and breakfast for hree days.
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| Restaurants: |
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Another dungeon resaurant!
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I have listed a few restaurants under “tips”, the best of which is the tavern corner of the alleys called Šatlavská and Masná. We could list many more, this is not a gourmet quarter but a paradise for people who eat well. We could try only a few places and agreed that, where-ever we suddenly got hungry, we would stop and eat, were never disappointed! The quality, freshness and presentation was always very satisfying. Usually one waits about 20 minutes for drinks and almost an hour for a meal. This is very normal in Europe (particularly in the south and east) and hope US-citizens don’t get too jumpy when waiting. Also, I didn’t see any drink served with ice in it here.
Yes, the dungeons are dark, smelly and gloomy, reminded me of my experiences in the gold mines of Africa but an exiting experience!
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| Other recommendations: |
They say this river Vlata here was connected to the Austrian Danube by the very first continental railway in early history! That means the Mediterranean (via Black Sea) was connected to the North Sea hundreds of years ago, communication important for developement and trade.
The university city Budweiss ( České Budějovice ) is only 50km noth by bus (€8), train or taxi (€75).
There is also another UNESCO heritage site near (50km) west of Budweis which we hoped to see but missed, a row of colourful houses....
April is low season, I’m not sure what this place is like mid-summer?
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Published on Thursday August 9th, 2007
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Sun, Aug 26 2007 - 11:21 AM
 by marianne
| nice mixture of 'pivo', history and practical information. The dungeon restaurant photo is a bit dark, but that is the intention I suppose. |
Tue, Aug 21 2007 - 01:51 AM
 by downundergal
I would love to visit here and your report made me want to visit more so. I am surprised you managed to see anything at all with the temptation of a price of beer being 80c a pint!
Anyway it was a great read. Kerrie |
Mon, Aug 13 2007 - 01:18 PM
by eirekay
| Rudi, Terrific report with wonderful descriptions! I like the idea of wondering through the cobble streets! |
Sun, Aug 12 2007 - 08:54 AM
by shalini_md
| Good informative report that brings to life your earlier slideshow of Krumlov. |
Sat, Aug 11 2007 - 07:38 AM
by ravinderkumarsi
| nice report ,castle seems to be interesting ,I have seen some picture of Czech cities and they are excellent,good pictures . |
Fri, Aug 10 2007 - 12:08 PM
by sajjanka
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