It's far from modern, it' hot, it's dusty, it's crowded, it's full of begging amputees and differences between rich and poor are more visible than in any other country I've been - yet Phnom Penh is extremely charming in it's own weird way.
Favourite spots:
Riverside promenade and markets, or just wandering the streets.
What's really great:
One doesn't LIKE Tuol Sleng, but it was certainly special and something I wouldn't have been without.
Sights:
Tuol Sleng. Wat Phnom.
Accommodations:
Spent most of the time at OK Guesthouse, near the Sofitel and Cambodiana hotels. $3 a night for a double with cold shower, standards according to price.
Also spent a night at Narin's No 1, which was reasonably nice but at double the price, and in too crowded backpacker area.