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Welcome to my travel log! You will find here a lot more than in the travel reports, stripped from political correctness. Enjoy! 
Apr 02, 2011 06:00 PM Ghana - Elmina to Accra
Half of the day, I spent in Elmina on lingering in the fishing port, watching the commotion and trading when boats returned from the sea. It was very interesting. I took plenty of shots with my new camera, and even took a couple of video clips, which I normally do not do.
Then at 2pm, Isaac and I went to Accra. I had an early flight the next day, and I did not fancy setting out at about 3am to get to the airport in Accra for 7am. The idea was to travel to Accra today, and to stay at a nice hotel near the airport. Isaac wanted to go with me and he also decided to stay at the hotel as well. It was his first time in a nice 5 star hotel. He had also never had a pizza before, so we decided to have it. I must have ordered a wrong kind for him, as he did not like it that much. But he loved the starter. I ordered chicken skewers with sweet chilli sauce for him and chicken satay for me. He did not like mine, but he loved his. We later ordered an extra portion using the room service, as he could not stop thinking about it. We packed the pizzas and he took them to Elmina the next day.
Originally, I did want to go for wandering in Accra, but then after reaching the hotel, we decided to linger there and use the facilities. Actually, I did not care afterall.
While chilling at the pool in the evening, Isaac told me his story. Story, I had not known before. It was a sad story and very moving. He called me an angel.
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Apr 01, 2011 06:00 PM Ghana - In Elmina - giving time
I took three large bags of clothes and football kit with me to Ghana. Although it was not Christmas time, it was a giving time. And it made me feel good about ... me! :)
I took the load with me for Isaac, but the boy was very kind and shared the football kit with some of his friends and club team members. I heard that sometimes, the footballers would sell any extra kit to their team members. Isaac was not like that. He did not profit from the goodies I had brought for him. He gave away a pair of football boots, a couple of footballs and two sets of sheen guards. Uh, and also a couple of pairs of long football socks.
The rest of the goodies included t-shits, vests, pullovers, sport socks, trousers, shirts, jackets and underwear. And also belts and even a ladies' depillator. Loads of the goods came from my friends, who have now gotten used to my invading them before every trip to Africa.
As I brought the presents in two very nice Nike sports bags (those with side compartments for shoes), which I never intended to take back to Europe, I gave them away, too. One went to Isaac, of course. The other one went to his friend, Emmanuel, who is a goalkeeper in his team. And the third went to Isaac's best friend - a sixteen year old Bernard. I had to pack myself for the return trip into my camera bag. And it worked.
My last gift were the condoms. Including tailored and personal instructions how to put them on - as the graphics in the packets were rubbish. The boys listened carefully. Very carefully. I took a few sets of XL condoms for their comfort. It was very funny at some point, when the boys, after learning about the differences in size, started to exchange the packets. Interestingly, there was no shame to have condoms in plain sight in the middle of the town, and complete strangers (guys only) passing by kept asking if they could get some condoms, too. I was very pleased with myself that I decided to bring them.
I went up to see the Elmina Castle, strolled couple of beaches, lingered in the fishing port, visited the market and went on wandering in the town. It was a great, sunny and hot day.
In the evening, we went out for dinner and a couple of drinks.
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Mar 31, 2011 06:00 PM Ghana - it's been a while
I gave Accra a miss. A total miss! My 'adopted' son collected me from the airport and we immediately set out to Elmina. The trip took over 3 hours, but I noticed that the road was improved very dramatically. It is now in perfect condition. The driver had no problem accelerating to over 150 km/h.
After checking into the hotel in Elmina, Isaac convinced me to go with him to Cape Coast to see his football team. They have organised a football match specially for me, so I could see how good they are. I was not keen for Isaac to play this afternoon, as he had to leave his home early in the night to be in Accra in time for my arrival at 5 o'clock in the morning. But he insisted and I was impressed how much energy he still had to play.
The rest of the players were very nice, too and funny! I also met up with a couple of footballers, whom I met six years ago and who had heard that I was around, so they came to see me. One of them, Francis, plays for Ghana's Premier League.
In the evening, we had a meal and a few drinks in Elimna in a local bar under the stars. It was a great evening!
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Mar 30, 2011 06:00 PM Ghana - on the way
And so, I am sitting in the Virgin Atlantic Club Lounge at London Heathrow's Terminal 3. It is the best lounge I have been to. And I had been to VA lounges before, but this one is truly amazing. There are a number bars, table service, a deli, a spa, game rooms and plenty of seats. The ambiance is very cool and there is enough staff around to run at least three large restaurants. Funky music plays from the speakers at a comfortable loundness that allows conversations but also masks some of the buzz around, clinking of glasses and cuttlery.
I am not travelling in the Upper Class tonight, and I no longer have a loyality card with Virgin Atlantic, but since I have Star Alliance's bmi gold card, that gives me access.
The bag drop experience earlier was somewhat disappointing, I have to say, but I am sure it could have been much worse, given the crowds and that a number of flights were departing to countries, where queuing is not necessarily as sophisticated as it is in the UK. Where I am used to. The shopping at the terminal was also below average, and I mean the service. The till lady asked for my boarding pass and asked me if Accra was my final destination. I said yes, and then she asked if I was going to changing anywhere enroute. So, this is where I got annoyed. She has just seen my boarding pass and then she asks whether I was actually travelling in a different way that it is stated on the pass. Strange. At least I am here in this great lounge and can stuff my face with free food, drink and pudding. Better here and now rather than being treated with an economy class aircraft food. :)
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Mar 29, 2011 06:00 PM Ghana - the return
So, it has been almost six years since my last visit to Ghana and just over six years since my first. I went to see the country for the first time in late March 2006 to see the total eclipse of the sun. Then, my last visit was in August the same year. As with my second visit to Ghana, this one is also for a specific purpose. I am visiting a small football team in Elmina that I have been sponsoring since my first trip to this historic town. And, I am also going to visit the boy, whom I have been sending to school there. It has been six years, so I expect that he has grown!
This time, I am bringing footballs, football boots, football jerseys, football sheen protectors, and, although I have not planned to, some cash – as I expect the boys will manage to extract some of that from me as always. To support their footballer lifestyles, I am also planning to bring some condoms. I would never be able to convince them to limit their celebrity-style celebrations with the girls, so at least I will try to twist their arms to do it with some degree of protection.
My ‘son’ has asked me for a laptop. They have started doing computer classes at the school, and he would love to have one at home for practice. Although, I am sure it would be used for playing games and videos mostly. But maybe also for more frequent communication with me and perhaps even video calls!
I am also bringing a bag full of clothes, which I managed to extract from my friends in London as I ended to devour my own wardrobe. I have not seen him for a considerable length of time, I could only guess his size, judging by some photos he had sent to me about two years ago. So, some of the things might not fit at all. But at least I will take all the measures and will know for the future, and he might want to share the load with some of his football mates. I am also taking a digital camera for him. He knows nothing of this, so it should be a nice surprise. This way, I could ask for more frequent photos, which should help me with any future clothing judgements.
In Ghana, I will probably just visit Elmina and Cape Coast. There would be no time for anything else, I do not think. I might also stop by a couple of other forts on the way from Accra, but only for a short while to take some up to date photographs. Most of the time, however, the lads would want to spend with me on socialising and that will be difficult to decline. It will be hard to share myself amongst some thirty-plus strong team.
Tomorrow, I am stepping on the airplane. For the first time, I will fly to Ghana direct – aboard the Virgin Atlantic flight.
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Mar 05, 2011 09:00 PM Torun (PL) - the honey ginger bread
Good, bright and sunny weather returned to Torun. It was great to again wander a little more. This time, there was a plan to get some of the Torun famous ginger bread. The most interesting part of Torun is really compact. One can cover both, the Old Town and the New Town, thoroughly in a long day. Unless one will enter every single church and chapel and examine each Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassical (…) façade in detail, then a weekend is a must. Plus a slower pace also allows for the full appreciation of how this medieval urban gem is layout out.
The city has one remarkable museum. It is the Tony Halik Travellers’ Museum located on ulica Franciszkanska. It is based in a small old house and dedicated to Mr Tony Halik, an extremely popular Polish traveller, who did a number of TV series about his travels to the most exotic of places. The museum presents photos taken by Polish explorers during their journeys in the remote parts of our planet. The admission is free. At the time of my visit, there was a special exhibit dedicated to New Zealand.
One of Torun’s curious sights is its own medieval leaning tower. In no, even smallest, detail does it resemble the famous leaning tower of Pisa. The Torun’s tower is less spectacular, however has a better story about it, I think. For this one, one of the many legends has it, had been erected this way on purpose – to be leaning towards the pavement. Apparently, it was a bet between two knights. One was claiming that it was impossible to build a leaning building. The other wanted to prove him wrong. The other legend has it that the Great Master of the Teutonic Order ordered one of the knights, who despite the promise of the celibate flirted (or more) with one of the Torunian ladies, to build the tower crooked like that so everyone would see his deviation. One can try (in vain) standing against the leaning tower facing the pavement with their back against the front wall. Unless one is Michael Jackson, this is an impossible task. The tower today houses a bar/restaurant called the Torre.
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Mar 04, 2011 09:00 PM Torun (PL) - in the discovery mode
Weather on Saturday was less bright and less sunny than on Friday. It was still cold, but not too much, so it was almost pleasant to walk around the medieval centre of the city. A light lunch in the Prowansja Restaurant (ulica Szewska 19) in the Old Town, washed down with an excellent wine, put me in a good mood. Wandering around the Old Town and the New Town made more sense after that.
I was under the impression that Torun still had a fair bit to do in order to renovate and revitalise some of its monuments. Sadly, it was too obvious that the city had underinvested its appearance for a very long time. Some ancient structures were in an alarming state of disrepair, mainly the old warehouses and free standing residential buildings, most of which could be converted in fantastic hotels or pensions. A large number of the fabulously preserved little side streets within the city walls looked scary and unwelcoming (it might have been done on purpose, although I did not really think so), and which would look superb with clever and delicate street lighting. Having said that, I do have to admit that it was clearly visible that the city, supported by the European Union, was spending millions and millions of euros on the renovation of some grand palaces, mansions and prominent buildings, as well as the city walls, gates, towers and bastions.
And there was a lot to see on this rather compact territory: The Old Town Townhall, the Church of the Virgin Mary, the University Building, the Gothic Granaries, the Renaissance Granaries and the Baroque Granaries, the Dambski Palace, the Artus Court, the Meissner Palace, the Star House, the St St Johns' Cathedral, the Church of St. James with double roof on its bell tower, close to the main square of the New Town (pol. Rynek Nowomiejski), the Eskens’ Palace, the Fengers’ Palace, and the gates: the Monastery Gate, the Monastery Gate, the Dovecote Tower, the Sailors’ Gate, the Bridge Gate, the Burgher’s Court, the Toilet Tower.
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Mar 03, 2011 09:00 PM Torun (PL) - the last weekend of the Carnival
A few weeks back, I was convinced to take a train from Warsaw to Torun to see this rare example of dual medieval town. In 1997, UNESCO granted Torun the title of the World Heritage Site stating that the original layout of the city, or actually two towns separated by a wall, never changed. This remarkable feature of Torun therefore gives a very rare opportunity to study the urban life from the Middle Ages.
The trip from Warsaw took just under three hours. The train was not late. The main station was slightly out of town, on the southern bank of the Vistula river. The historical centre was on the northern bank. It was a good hike. It led across the road bridge, views from which were great. The entire southern side of the Old Town and the New Town (both medieval) were visible. The spires of the main churches created an incredible skyline.
I was staying at the Hotel 1231, built on the site of the Teutonic Knights' Castle, which was destroyed by the Torunians in 1454 in the uprising agains the Teutonic Order, which agreed at the Torun Peace Treaty of 1466 to grant Torun to the Kingdom of Poland. The hotel was reasonable and its location was superb. Right on the border between the Old Town and the New Town, with the division so clearly visible to this day. Rather incredible sight indeed.
At night, I went to check a couple of night spots as a farewell to the 2011 Carnival. I checked the Jazz Cat and the Lizard King. Both had no cover charge and very relaxed door policy, if any at all. The Lizard King was a large venue located in an old tenement house (Burgher house) on ulica Kopernika (Copernicus Street) just a few yards from the remarkable Gothic house, where Nicolaus Copernicus was born. It got packed into the night and attracted an excellent mix of the crowd. The music was more than decent - the DJ put tunes from 1980s and 1990s. Very civilised indeed. The club closed at 4 o'clock in the morning.
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Dec 30, 2010 09:00 PM Happy New Year!
I would like to wish all Globies a very happy year of 2011, full of thrilling discoveries and unforgettable adventures to many of our planet's breathtaking places, visits to amazingly different cultures, meeting fascinating peoples, and visits to all of those places that you want to see and have had on your travel wishlists. Be it for the wildlife, nature and landscape or for the architecture, culture and people or party, nightlife and excitement! Happy and safe travels!
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Dec 26, 2010 09:00 PM Winter runways ...
This entry is dedicated to all travellers, who suffered disruption due to the so called 'unusual winter weather conditions' across Europe and Northern America this December. It did affect me delaying my travels for a few days. And yet, I decided to risk it and dispatched myself from the Warsaw Fredeirc Chopin Airport to Lviv International Airport. Warsaw managed to clear its runways nicely, and the only delay that I had leaving Poland was due to transit transatlantic passengers. But when I started to snow heavily in Lviv, and having seen the airport and its facilities there, my return to Warsaw did not look so certain. Yet, the attitude of the Ukrainian airport authority towards snow on runways was much more relaxed than any of the EU airport authorities. Although the runway was not fully cleared of the snow, this did not stop the aircraft to come and go. I took this photo of the runway in Lviv, as my aircraft was about to take off.
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