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Welcome to my travel log! You will find here a lot more than in the travel reports, stripped from political correctness. Enjoy! 
Sep 08, 2010 06:00 PM Jajce (BA) - lovely but scarred Medieval town with a fortress and a waterfall
I got the bus #37 from Trogir to Split, and it took 1h10'! It was terrible! Not only did I have to suffer such a slow journey, I also had to pay HRK20 for it! Had I known it was going to take this long, I would have hopped on a boat, which would take an hour. I did consider a boat trip, but the journey time repelled me. What an irony? Furthermore, the bus did not end at the main coach station at all. Instead, it terminated somewhere in the city, and I had to tale a hike across town. The boat would have brought me right to the harbour, where the main station was. This is what happens if you have trust a travel agent in Trogir.
Anyway, I found the main coach station, bought my ticket to Jajce, and thought I could take a wee hike to the old town and perhaps have some lunch before my 5h coach ride. I did both. I sat at the F Restaurant & Pizzeria, had a pizza and a pint of Karlovačko. There was just enough time to scuff it and walk back to the station for the 12:30pm departure.
The small coach, Marbus B4 080, was relatively comfortable. The driver lacked better concentration though, sometimes losing his bearing and having difficulty to stay within the lines of the lane. Oh, well.
The Croatia/Bosnia border crossing was very simple. No-one had to leave the vehicle apart from the driver. A single immigration officer at both sides entered the coach and looked at the documents very quickly. The entire crossing took about 5 minutes, if that. But then, the coach stopped at Livno for 15 minutes. I never liked these stops. As I do not smoke and drink little on coaches, I have no need for stopping. I'd rather get to my destination those 15 minutes earlier.
The coach rolled into Jajce 15 minutes early anyway. The old town and the fortress loomed in the distance. Pretty and dominating. The waterfall below, considered amongst the 10 loveliest waterfalls in the world, thundered and created a mist above it. The ambiance of the place was obvious - a little, Medieval town in the mountains. The air, fresh and cool, complemented the scene. I was so glad I decided to stick to my plan and survived the 5h ride. In addition to all that, it seemed that Jajce did not suffer from bars and clubs shortage. Typical mountainous feel indeed.
At a closer inspection, the place did show many war scars. Some building, badly ruined, would need to be taken down completely. Others had facades ripped wiu bullet holes. Much still needs to be done to restore the old town to its former glory. And UNESCO should make their mind quick, as Jajce remains on the tentative list, because if any of the old houses were to be reconstructed, and some are, then it would be better it was happening according to UNESCO rules. I noticed by the way that young Bosnians young at heart tended to venture to the ramparts and old fortress walls for great views, cuddling and kissing.
Tonight, I am hitting some of the bars. Hopefully the rain will stop, despite the terrible weather forecast.
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Sep 07, 2010 06:00 PM Trogir (HR) - an island-town, pretty and atmospheric
My taxi was late. Well, apparently it was not late, but since the driver was given an incorrect phone number, he could not call me that he had been waiting. Anyway, I got to the airport in good time, despite a massive traffic jam right before the airport, the remote drop off point, the construction work by he terminal building making the hike even longer. I had 15 minutes before my gate was supposed to close, and the queues at the security points were approximately half an hour long. So, I bought a £3 ticket for the fast lane, and had time to purchase a breakfast baguette. Then, at 05:30am the flight opened for boarding.
I landed in Trogir/Split three hours later. It was windy but warm, about 25C. I wanted some more sunshine though. A few sun rays made it through he clusters of white-and-gray curly clouds, eventually. I wished there had been a little more sun, still.
Trogir was packed with tourists. Enormously! The groups came mainly from Spain, Germany, Russia, Czech Republic and Poland. This small island-town seemed to suffer from this invasion. And yet, it was still pleasant to wander about the impossibly narrow lanes and both, the southwestern and northeastern seafronts.
I had already been to Trogir in the summer of 1998, only for a few hours, on the way from Korčula and Hvar to the Plitvice Lakes. This time round, I decided to take it slow and stayed over night. Trogir is a small place and for me to spend an entire day on a tiny island and even stay for the night was a major deceleration. of travelling pace. But when I did it, it certainly felt like I needed it.
Trogir was founded some 2300 years ago. Little remains from that period and the majority of the attractions and monuments that remained when I visited dated back to the 14th and 15th centuries, many of which have distinct Venetian character. The southern seafront, where the main marina was, the remains of the city walls, a great gate and tower, an old but still functioning public school and the little fort as well, saw a couple of visits from luxury yachts. One of them was the famous Grace E, a charter top of the range yacht, whose radar unit was as big as if it was built for a destroyer. Seriously! But this side if the island also boasted a string of bars, cafes, and restaurants, some of which were a rip off, but some were not bad at all. The opposite side of the island, the northern side, also had a few eateries, as well as a couple of hotels, and it was the main gateway to Trogir. A single bridge there led to the main Split - Petrovač road. Right by the bridge was a local coach station with services mainly to Split, via the airport, which ran every 20 minutes on weekdays, every 30 minutes on Saturdays and every 45 minutes on Sundays.
The John Paul II Square in the heart of the old Trogir, below the cathedral, one side of which had the entry to the museum, was a great place to sit down and relax. Half of this small square was covered with tables and parasols, a perfect spot for a glass of refreshing Croatian white wine, writing postcards and the watch people. Well, mainly tourists, who kept throwing back their heads in order to see the their fellow travellers, who managed to climb the Venetian style bell tower of St Lawrence's Cathedral.
At night, one of the bars at the John Paul II Square, the Corte, pulled in a bar onto the square and a gifted bartender started throwing and joggling bottles in the air. Right by the old Town Hall! Lounge-come-swing-come-samba-come-dance music played loud and it definitely felt like an open air club. The temperature of their dropped considerably and long sleeves were surely a good idea. But at the same time it was great sitting there under the open skies, sip red Croatian wine and watch people walk by and admire the bartender's skills.
This is where I am now... :)
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Aug 29, 2010 06:00 PM Ürgüp (TR) - ASR > IST > ZRH > LHR - London (GB)
I am sitting at the clock square in Ürgüp catching the first rays of the sun today. It is a glorious day, again. The town is only just waking up. Most of the cafes are closed. Some have their staff washing the pavements and wiping the tables. Perhaps they will open at 10am. The pastry shops and bakeries are open, though. I am siting at a table belonging to the Bahane Cafe, and it seems to me that all the tables and faux-reed wood and raisin armchairs were left on the square overnight. There are no chains or bolts preventing a potential thief from taking them. I am very impressed with that. I was under the impression that the Turks had somewhat different reputation in Europe...
Anyway, my airport transfer is going to pick me up in about two hours. So, trolling about Ürgüp is the last thing I am going to do on this short escapade to Cappadocia. It will be hard to leave this wonderland. I checked weather in London and fortunately, it is not going to be too miserable when I come back home, just 10 degrees Celsius cooler...
I have not bought myself a souvenir yet. And I cannot decide. I browsed through some of the souvenir shops but there was nothing of an acceptable quality for which I would have parted with my hard earned money. I don't wear jewelley, and they had plenty of that. I do not like carpets or rugs, and they really had plenty of those. I did not like their pottery or ceramics - I already have plenty of them. And their artistic representation of the stone formations did not move me. Maybe, if they had some of those fairy chimneys carved in wood, I might have gone for something like that.
As I was sipping my morning energy drink, industrial speakers spread across the town started blasting communist-like songs, which reminded me of the proletariat times in Poland. The songs were performed by choir accompanied by trumpets and horns in the style of The International Song, once so popular in the Socialist Bloc. There must have been a national holiday in Turkey or something, for national flags were flying from posts across town, and obviously the massive flag of Turkey and portrait of the blue-eyed Atatürk on a flag flown from the castle hill. I later found out that it was Turkey's Victory Day, which is always celebrated on the 30th August.
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My airport transfer came on time. A young driver would have earned a tip from me if he had not spoken on his mobile phone while driving on the motorway. No-one deserves a tip for endangering my life.
At the very small Kayseri airport (there are about a million people living in the city), Turkish Airlines checked me in on my flight to Istanbul and to Zurich but not to London. I was so cross. This means that I will have to look for a transfer desk on either Istanbul or Zurich airport. In Zurich I will have only 65 minutes between touching down and takin off. This is hardly enough time for running about an airport and queuing at check-in desks. I will need to try this in Istanbul. According to the schedule, there will be 90 minutes between my flights, but I will also need to change terminals and go through a passport control. Stupid, incompetent cow from Turkish Airlines inflicted this stress on me! Should I complain to the Star Alliance?
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The Atatürk Istanbul Airport has confusing signs. Although there is a route from domestic arrivals to the international departures for the international transfer passengers, and signage for it, too, there route is not open and one has to go through the entire procedures of the domestic arrivals and then the international departures, as if the terminals were located in different parts of the city. Anyway, my Zurich flight was delayed by at least 45 minutes. This meant that, if I was going to make the connection to London at all, I would have no time to go through boarding pass transfer procedures. I managed to locate the transfer desks at the ass end of the Istanbul airport, downstairs near the mosque at the arrivals level, and managed to twist people's arms to issue me a boarding pass to London. I also enquired about making the connection given the Zurich delay, and I was given the 80:20 chance, 20 being the miracle that I was going to make it. Yet, it was still probable that, as it was the last flight with any airline from Zurich to London, the aircraft could wait for the transit passengers. In the meantime, my gate was changed from 221 to 213, and the latter was still boarding an Amsterdam flight, so I could not yet find about that probability. So, it was time for the world's most expensive berry smoothie (TRY11 for small one -12oz or TRY13.50 for large one).
Later, at the gate, the staff were totally unhelpful, like anywhere at the Atatürk Airport. They seem blaze and uninterested in what I was enquiring about. It was clear to me that the Turks needed to go a very long way in order to catch up with the airport standards regarding the passenger service, in terms of politeness, attentiveness and competency. It turned out that the girl at Kayseri airport could not give me my London-bound boarding pass, because she did not know how to use the system properly (I was told by the Swiss service personnel). Such a shame. But I know of a number of place on this planet, where this is also the case.
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I was 1h07 minutes late in Zurich, 3 minutes before my connecting flight was scheduled to depart to London. Then, one of the things that annoy me the most in this world happened. Although I just stepped off an airplane, I was subjected to yet another x-ray machine and security check. As if it was possible to arm oneself aboard another scheduled passenger aircraft! My body has been exposed to x-rays for the fifth time today, all within 8 hours! I am sure that the metal work in my arm will begin to glow in the dark for the whole of next week. Well, on the positive note, I made my London flight. Swiss International Air Lines made all the effort to wait for me, and three other passengers delayed from Istanbul. In fact, a number of other flights waited; Amsterdam, Barcelona, Brussels, Lugano and other - all of which were the very last flights in those directions today. Good on SWISS!
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Aug 28, 2010 06:00 PM Ürgüp (TR) - so different from Göremë
Goodbye Göremë. Hello Ürgüp! Just 10 kilometres from Göremë, the heart of Cappadocia, Ürgüp appeared bleak and uninspiring. The contrast could not be greater. I was very disappointed. I am not sure what I was thinking. Travel literature suggested that Ürgüp was just an upper scale version of Göremë, with good quality dining and lodging. The thing was that Göremë had caught up considerably, excellent hotels had been built, great restaurants had sprung up, and there was nothing Ürgüp had that Göremë did not, when I visited. Except perhaps the hill with abandoned old town, right in the middle of the town, whilst visitors to Göremë had to hike either 3km to Uçhisar or 4km to Çavusin to see such a thing, and incidentally both were more dramatic that Ürgüp's.
The main bus station was located in the geographical centre of the town, in one of the two squares. The small tourist information office, one of the two (the main one was closed on Sundays) was based there, but thy were not very well informed. They even did not know where my hotel was. I had to show them the actual address. Funny thing that the hotel had been there for the last 20 years.
The old town and the 'castle' (this is what they call a hill with caves, once or still being occupied by the locals) were located at the northern end of the town.
My first impression of Ürgüp was terrible but the town grew on me a little. The core of the town was clean and kept organised, friendly for pedestrians, who wanted to stroll a little or relax at pavement cafes. The old town was extensive somewhat and free to explore. Part of the ruins, or should I say abandoned caves, were accessible for visitors, free of charge. There were also pockets of really nice districts, particularly those where caves were converted into 4* and 5* hotels.
I checked in into my hotel (Capadocia House, completely unknown to the tourist office by the main bus station), and strolled a little about the town. I climbed to the top of the old town for a view of Ürgüp and the surrounding area, coffee (Turkish coffee - never again!) and water. Then, I walked a third of the way back to Göremë to see the only rock formations near Ürgüp, the leaning fairy chimneys, which looked like large wild mushrooms (kozaki). I spent there an hour waiting for the sun to lower a little bit to give better light for the photos.
Then, as I walked down to the town, I got an idea to go somewhere for the sunset. All of the days in Cappadocia were gorgeous, with over 12 hours of sun and absolutely not a single cloud around. And all of those days, I was somewhere taking pictures of rock formations rather observing the sun go down with a beverage in my hand. There was this little tour agent right at the main square in Ürgüp, I think called Ted Valley Tours, who advertised 'Sunset Tour in the Red Valley'. I asked them about that. They wanted TRY35 for it, and I was going to be the only passenger. It was less than a taxi would charge me, so I went for it. The sunset was fine. My beverage was a bottle of still water.
But I returned to Ürgüp and visited the roof terrace of the Joy Open Air Pub for a bottle of dark Efes beer. The night descended before I could finish my drink. The lights of the town came up and suddenly, Ürgüp looked attractive and very atmospheric. The bartender put Spanish and Latin tunes on, and life was good again...
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Aug 27, 2010 06:00 PM Göremë - from the hot air balloon
This is an historical moment. My first time in an hot air balloon. I was in one in Angkor Wat, Cambodia, but it was tied to the ground. If one wanted to go on a ride in hot air balloon anywhere on the planet, Cappadocia is definitely one of the best places on the globe to do that. There are a number of reasons. The first two reasons are: the scenery is unique and otherworldly, and there is plenty of competition that keeps the prices reasonable. The rule is not to book the flight remotely on the Internet, but to come to Cappadocia and shop around the travel agents in Göremë. Many hotels and pensions have further discounts. I got 20% off the office price (Ürgüp Balloons) and paid €120 for an hour's flight, complete with door to door service, breakfast, certificate and champagne! People on the same flight paid as little as €115 and as much as €180, so it is worth it shop around. There were companies around, which offered flights for €100 and some charged as much as €250. My flight was fine. I saw plenty on the way, took many photos and my captain (his name was Murat) was witty but also skilful and professional. I saw other balloons go much higher, but I was not sure if that was better, actually. It must have been hard to appreciate the rock formations from such a high altitude. Murat was great in approaching some of the valleys and he managed to come extremely close to some of he rocks! It often looked like he basket was going to hit them. But it never happened, there were always a few inches clear.
The morning was chilly, particularly before the sun came up. So long trousers and sleeves were essential. Yet, it got hot rather quickly and at 7:30am, towards the end of the flight, I had to take my jacket off. I had a long sleeve linen shirt underneath as well, which was too much by the time the champagne arrived after landing. Overall, it was a great experience. And seeing about 30-40 balloons taking off at the same time and the hoovering above the spectacular valleys made the experience even greater.
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Aug 27, 2010 06:00 PM Göremë - getting lost in the Love Valley
According to my original plan, I was supposed to go to Avanos by dolmus or a bus, and then trek back south through the Devrent Valley and the Rose Valley. I changed my mind. Since tomorrow was a day for relaxing in Ürgüp with no hiking, I thought I could go for a tour around Cappadocia ending in Ürgüp (that is not definite yet), and spend all day trekking today. I walked north to Çavusin and turned west into the Love Valley, and continued south in the valley all the way to Uçhisar. It was a relatively easy trek, but there were no signs and I ended climbing up the slopes of the valley five times to figure out which route to take. In the end, at the very end of the valley, I got completely lost and got stuck in cul-de-sacs a few times. This cost me a few litres of sweat. The exit from the valley was tricky and very steep, at least the one that I took. There was some loose sand on the steep rocks, and I didn't fancy breaking any bones on this short holiday. And that would be a long way down if I slipped - several dozens of camels high, in fact. But, as usual, it turned out ok. I walked up to the Uçhisar junction, contemplated visiting the village, but eventually skipped that and walked along the Pigeon Valley to Göremë. When I descended to the town, it was 2:30pm, so not a full day of trekking, afterall. Yet, it was full of adrenaline and sweat. And I started before sunrise with the hot air balloon ride. So, I decided it was enough for one day. Afternoon was for relaxing, but I was thinking if I should do a sunset hike somewhere to finish myself of. The issue was that if I were to stretch my bones somewhere for a few hours, it would be challenging to pick them up layer on. I could also do something extravagant and take a taxi to a nice sunset spot, and tick the box. And as I fried the top of my head and had no hat, I became slightly too aware of the burning sun above. The trick was to acquire a cap at least and have this problem solved. If they had any decent ones in Göremë, but they had not.
Out of curiosity, I enquirer at the tourist information office about Pasabagi and methods to get there. I wanted to go there for the sunset, but the lady there did not think it was a good idea. Instead she kept saying that a better sunset spot was on the top of Göremë, something that I had already checked out the other day. She simply would not accept that! When I asked about a taxi for the return trip to Pasabagi, she asked if there was an emergency. I said "no" and she said that therefore going there was not necessary. She was so strange. I explained that I was bored and I wanted to shoot some nice photos at sunset, but she kept stating that it was not necessary! I did not want to offend her, so I took my legs and hiked those 5 kilometres between Göremë and Pasabagi. The place was magical. Amazingly, it was a spot for several three headed mushroom fairy chimneys. Nowhere else were three headed chimneys found, yet Pasabagi boasted several of them in one spot. It was extraordinary. I wandered around this incredible spot, right by the main road, and admired how well kept it was, with pavements and places for snacking and sipping refreshments. Not the same quality like Love Valley, Pigeon Valley, Rose Valley, White Valley, Zemi Valley, Göremë Valley or even the small Çavusin Valley, where I was trekking completely on my own, but still a great experience as the rock formations were unbelievable! Within an hour, right after sunset, I was back in Göremë, downing vanilla frappé (TRY6) at the Oze Coffee Cafe & Patisserie. It has been a good day.
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Aug 26, 2010 06:00 PM Göremë (TR) - more phallic forms around
The hot air balloons woke me up right after sunrise. It must have been about 05:30am. But I stayed in bed for the next 90 minutes. The morning was chilly. Quick shower, and it was 07:30. The sun was climbing very fast. I was lucky that my pension was located right at a small group of large fairy chimneys, so I could take a few morning photographs. The light was superb, but I was shooting against the sun, which was not optimal.
Breakfast was included in my accommodation fare, so I took it at the pension, otherwise I would have tried a local restaurant of a cafe for a morning meal. The breekie included a hard boiled egg, four massive slices of white bread, butter, strawberry jam, honey, sliced tomatoes and fresh cucumber, and a hot beverage of choice. I took black tea. It was strong and thanks to the honey on the table, it was a perfect choice.
Then, I decided to visit the Open Air Museum. It was about a kilometre away, slightly uphills. On the way, I passed by fantastic fairy chimneys and took a side route to the Zemi Valley. The valley was magnificent! It had several giant phallic mushroom-like formations, some corresponding to the generally accepted condom size standards; magnum, extra large, large, medium, small, Caucasian, and Asian. But seriously, it was magical. If there was a scientific scale for measuring attractiveness, this valley was way off the scale. Om my first visit, as I was just passing by on my way to the museum, I only did the bottom oft the valley. Later, I returned to find good vantage points and tried to explore some view points. I found a few, and I am sure my camera had a few, multiple orgasms.
The museum was not that great. First of all, it was flooded with tourists, mainly Italian and Japanese groups, Spaniards, Poles, Hungarians and a few independent French couples. I hated that. The cave churches were too small to accommodate all the groups. If was not easy to squeeze between the organised tours. That contrasted with me being on my own in the valley. Second of all, the churches were a little disappointing. I understood their significance, obviously, as some of them dated back to the 2nd century, but their natural attractiveness was average. Except one of the larger churches, just below the main museum, dating back to the 11th century, which was impressive. It was larger, had two levels, a few chambers and its frescoes were dramatic and more elaborate.
I returned to Göremë and took an executive decision not to follow my initial plan. I did not go to Ortahisar, as I could see it from a few vantage points of the Zemi Valley, and did not venture to Uçhisar either. I though I wanted to do the Pigeon Valley there and a few rock formations between Göremë and Uçhisar. But I figured, I had time for that, having experienced that the distances were not great in Cappadocia. Instead, I took a hike on the hills above Göremë and all the way to valley I 'discovered' before. It was again all mine. Not a soul in sight, at least for a while. It was again a great feeling to be hiking amongst the mind-boggling landscape alone, as if I was a character of a fairy-tale, an explorer and a good man in a fantasy epic movie, or a stranded astronaut exploring an alien planet. Then, a couple appeared. They opened their picnic boxes and dug in. I know that if I took my girlfriend here for a picnic, she would have at least as many multiple orgasms as my camera, just looking at the valleys and its humongous phallic rocks. And a few minutes after that, two mountain bikers turned up, as well as a group of local mountain biking tour office, who commenced plotting a bike trail with a plastic tape. At that point, I thought I could just descend to Göremë for a drink or two. And it eventually was three drinks. They came with lunch.
The afternoon was for chilling and admiring the landscape. That's it. It was too hot for hiking. The temperature reached thirtysomething on the Celsius scale, and there was no wind in the valleys. Only on the top of the hills, but to climb there... uff. Too hot. And I have never been too good at carrying water with me. In the morning, it was fine, it was fresh and slightly breezy. Therefore, the afternoon was indeed for chilling, sipping tea and writing postcards.
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Aug 25, 2010 06:00 PM Göremë (TR) - Arrived in Cappadocia
Arrived. I can't say that I enjoyed the aircraft change in Istanbul with a couple of hours wait, but when I reached Göremë, I knew it was worth it. Arriving in late afternoon, about 3 hours before sunset, magnified the magnetism, uniqueness, attractiveness and picturesqueness of this stupendous place on Earth. I dropped my bag at the pension on the northern fringe of the town and embarked on a hike to the Love Valley in Çavusin, 4 kilometres north from Göremë. This was what my plan for Capadocia said anyway, but I passed the village on the the way from the airport and it looked gorgeous. On the way, I passed the Rose Valley, as the pension owner recommended the 'garden' dirt road rather than the main highway. It was a great valley and it reminded me of the Isalo National Park of Madagascar. Right next to the rose stones, there were also pure white rock formations creating superb contrast. I even thought that the white rocks, which looked like vanilla ice-cream, made a greater impression on me than the rose-coloured ones. It was a good hike.
When I got to the Love Valley, I was on my own. The entire atmosphere and the incredibleness of the spot were for my eyes only. That was a great feeling. I expected hordes of people walking around the majestic fairy chimneys. It was. not so. I was there alone. Completely on my own. And that was almost eerie. Being surrounded by otherworldly rock formations as if they were a set of a fantasy or intergalactic film. No official paths were present, so I just wandered around, sometimes drowning in loose sand, sometimes being caught by ivy or other low growing plants. And the sun was going down giving long shadows and perfect lighting conditions.
I returned by hiking along the main road for the more panoramic views flooded in the rays of the setting Sun. It was superb!
But a couple of sodas and a pizza later, I was tired. So, I went to bed early. I am actually typing this in bed...
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Aug 18, 2010 06:00 PM Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina - change of plans (planes)
Yesterday, Wizzair issued information that their Friday flights between London and Split, a brand new connection, was not going to operate. At least not on the Friday I wanted to travel. I had to change my plans. Instead of a five day break, I will end up going for a full week. After a quick investigation, I added Jajce to my itinerary and I switched the direction of my trip. Now, I am planning to start with Trogir and then proceed to Split, Jajce, Sarajevo, Mostar, Blagaj, Pocitelj and return to Split, and to make a quick hop to Brac island for a day.
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Aug 13, 2010 06:00 PM Warsaw (PL) - The Frederic Chopin Museum
I had heard about this state of the art museum, which was built in time for the famous composer's 200th birthday anniversary. It claims to be amongst the most modern museums in Europe. It is fully multimedial with lots of music, interactive photo slides, original letters, furniture, and even games for the kids. It is was not cheap (PLN22), and they only allowed about 70 people at a time, so often there were no tickets for hours. It was advisable to book at least one day ahead. Some of the magnetic cards, which the visitors are given to activate the multimedia, did not work well, but the museum employees always carry a few extra and can exchange them in case of problems. The museum did not have air-conditioning and on a hot day like this, it was very uncomfortable there. Otherwise, the museum was very interesting, and some of the letters written by Frederic Chopin were incredibly personal, some were funny and some even scary.
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