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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Nov 30, 2011 07:00 PM St Croix - my new island...
I landed here for the first time. In the past this island was a posession of... Danmark. Sugar Cane industry was growing here on the basis of the slaves' work. Black workforce arrived here from Africa. I saw the forts on the coast of Ghana where they kept slaves before they were sent to St Croix.
On St Croix you can see the remains of the plantations, sugar mills and... Cruzan Rum Destillery. But the highlight of the island is the old town of Christiansted - with nice fort and many other historic buildings. They charge 3 USD entry fee.
To move around the island on the cheap use shared taxis crawling non-stop all the day between Christiansted and the second town on the island - Frideriksted. They charge 2,50 USD per ride.
Frederiksted is much smaller and sleepy place, but also has a little fort. Saint Croix belongs to the US Virgin Islands. Eastern end of St Croix island is also the easternmost point of the USA.
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Nov 29, 2011 07:00 PM Best view in the Caribbean?
I am on the island of Antigua. In the past lord Nelson built here the base of the British Fleet and also the shipyard. Worth to see, but from my previous visit I remember that I saw here great panorama - from Shirley Heights, Why not to enjoy it once more?
They will tell you that you have to rent a taxi to get there. Not necessary. For the backpacker there is much cheaper method: go to the western bus station and take the microbus no 17 - it goes to the Nelson Dockyard for just 1,50 USD. The visit will cost you 8 USD of entry fee but this covers also the Heights.
It is some 3 kms sweaty walk uphill. Try to hitchhike, but there is very little traffic... But is is definitely worth the effort - I stlill think that this is one of the nicest panoramic views I saw in the Caribbean!
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Nov 28, 2011 07:00 PM Saint Lucia - Helena of the Caribbean
People compare the beauty of this island to the beauty of the Helen of Troy... Saint Lucia is hilly, their main landmark are The Pitons - twin Volcanic peaks located on the coast. Saint Lucia was 7 times British and 7 times French... Now it is independent and people here speak mostly patois dialect - something like a broken French.
Red flags on the streets - local Labour Party celebrates the victory in the yesterday's elections.
I visited two nice fishing villages on the coast: Anse la Raye and Canaries. Then I went to the Torraill Waterfall located some 3 kms inland from Sufriere. In my opinion it is just a tourist trap. They offer the shower at the bottom of 15-m high rather weak fall...
In the capital city - Castries it is worth to see catholic cathedral. People live from the export of the bananas - mostly to UK and from tourism. But they do not smile... It is worth to know that in the piramid-like building of Alliance Francais they offer free wi-fi connection...
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Nov 27, 2011 07:00 PM Grenada - The Spice Island
It is very picturesque Island. I have been here before and I think that the port of Saint George's has one of the most picturesque locations in the Caribbean.
Grenada has spice plantations, but I decided to go to the Concord Waterfall. You can go there by taxi. But I went to the local bus station and took the minibus full of the Grenadians. They are very nice and helpful. For just 1 USD (payment in USD is welcomed) they took me via coastal road to the village of Concord.
Then it is 2,5 kms walk to the interior. Normally it is easy. But keep in mind that it goes uphill. And the temperature is around 30 deg Celsius! I did not know about that... It is sweaty but nice walk: a lot of cocoa trees, breadfruit and nutmeg around...
At the waterfall you have to pay 1 USD to get to the viewpoint. It is not much!
Concord Fall is nice! Two drops, some 30 m...
But... There is also upper Concord Fall. They say it is only 15 minutes walk on the path climbing up the river. But the path is wet and muddy. I reached first river crossing - too dangerous after heavy night rain. There are 3 river crossings on the way to the upper fall - the bridges were swept down by the high water.
I returned not so happy. Maybe you will be lucky to see also the upper Concord Fall...
Total cost of the excursion: 3 USD Grenada is beautiful!
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Nov 26, 2011 07:00 PM How to camp in the paradise :)
Do you dream about living just 20 m from the tropical beach?
You can do it here... Take 2-dollars ferry to Culebra Island. Pack your bacpack and your tent to Will's van - he will take you to Flamenco Beach for 3 dollars.
Then they have there the choice of 6 or 7 campsites under the trees just 20 m from the sand. Every site has a table and big water tank. Shower and toilets are shared.
Put you tent and enjoy the tropics!
In the morning the warden is coming to collect 20 USD fee (per site per day). The eatery/ softdrinks are 100 m away at the parking place.
Mosquitoes are present in the paradise so do not forget to bring the net and repellent! :)
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Nov 25, 2011 07:00 PM Island of Culebra
I am back on Culebra Island enjoying the sun, friendly Spanish-speaking people and beautiful beaches. The island is hilly so if you want to discover it walking it is quite an effort regarding the heat of 30 deg. Celsius and more. But the walk gives you a chance to stop at any place, to take more pictures.
From time to time I am hitchhiking - local people are not afraid to take the stranger into the car... Jeep rental is of cource possible, but it costs minimum 50 USD per day plus the fuel.
On one end of the island I went to the distant Zoni Beach. Very small and almost empty, but with the best background - view of Culebrita and other little cays is great!
Do not be confused by the name of the nearest Playa Larga - it was sweaty walk on gravel road, but not worth: playa larga is not large - just little piece of sand and boat jetty.
On the other end of Culebra you will find isolated and accessible only by walk or boat little Carlos Rosario Beach. It is 20 min walk from Flamenco Park. Carlos Rosario is for the people who want to escape the crowd. But the best, cleanest and most popular is Flamenco!
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Nov 24, 2011 07:00 PM Tropical Vieques Island
Today I decided to go for the full day to the second island in the group: Vieques. For many years Vieques was ocuppied by American Navy - they were training bombing there. They say that navy went out only in 2001. Now Vieques is famous for its tropical beaches.
To get there from Culebra where I live you have to take first ferry to Fajardo on the mainland Puerto Rico (2.25 USD) and then another ferry to Isabella Segunda on Vieques (2 USD). That's what I did!
Lighthouse is welcoming visitors on arrival to Isabella II - named after the Spanish queen. Shared taxis are waiting to take you to the other side of the island (3 USD), where you will find second settlement on this island - Esperanza. It is nicer and has the lovely shore promenade called Malecon. Also on this side of the island you will find best beaches: they have both Spanish and American names. I visited few of them just to compare and to enjoy different landscapes: Sun Beach, Half Moon Beach, Red Beach and Blue Beach. Since I do not like crowded places I liked most Half Moon Beach (Media Luna - what a romantic name!) I hope to show you heir pictures soon... How to move beetween these beaches? I was walking and hitchhiking - it works! Of course you can rent a jeep - but it will cost min. 50 USD.
Sailing in the afternoon back to Culebra I expected 3 hours waiting foe the ferry connection in Fajardo. Ha,ha! Previous Culebra ferry was delayed more then one hour so I just changed the boat...
Good to me, but do not rely on these ferries!
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Nov 23, 2011 07:00 PM Spanish Virgin Islands
Yesterday it was already evening when I reached Fajardo on the eastern end of Puerto Rico. I returned the car and jumped with all my sfuff on the ferry heading to the island of Culebra. The ferry is still dirty cheap: 2,25 USD for 1,5 hour trip.
There are British Virgin Islands, US Virgin Islands but Spanish Virgin Islands?... Culebra and Vieques were really Spanish until the Spanish - American war... Now they are administrated by Puerto Rico... People still speak Spanish here, sometimes only Spanish...
Both islands are very little in comparison with Puerto Rico. But (it is a secret for many travellers) they have some best beaches in the whole Caribbean.
I booked my last expensive room on Culebra via internet. Kokomo Hotel has few of them. But they are noisy since it is located just opposite to the ferry landing. No luxury, room no 4 is recommended as a best - with the bath in the next corridor...
After some 8 hours of driving I took a shower and went to the bed.
The bar downstais was noisy till the midnight...
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Nov 22, 2011 07:00 PM The most beautiful waterfall of Puerto Rico
In the morning we were walking around the colonial town of Ponce. Att Museum is definitely worth to visit (entry 6,42 USD). They have great collection of the old masters including El Greco, Velazquez, Murillo but also Flemish and English painters - it is definitely worth to see...
Then we started to climb the lush-green mountains of central Puerto Rico again. Salto Dona Juana - waterfall just on the roadside was nice but the highlight of the day was the Canyon of San Cristobal near Barranquitas. What brought me there? Not a canyon itself but the Neblina waterfall, which is in the canyon. Information was poor. No siggns - you hahe to ask the people many times. Most of them do not speak English... Finally we found the teenagers ready to show us the way to the canyon. It is tricky: the beginning of the path is on the private property. You have to open the gate to get through. Then there is a muddy path through the wet grass and steep descent in the tropical forest. Easy to slide down! You will hear the thumbling water but you cannnot see the fall. I expected the viewpoint. Nothing like that! You must go down to the river and then go onward on the wet, slippery stones. Teke your hiking boots!
Finally I saw it - Neblina Fall is maybe 80 to 90 meters high and is more impressive than any other waterfall of Puerto Rico! The climb up was very sweaty! My socks and trousers require laundry! But the fall is worth it! :)
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Nov 21, 2011 07:00 PM Puerto Rico by car
Intercity transport on the island is weak here so the best idea is to rent a car and go... You can rent a compact car for 26 USD/day but take care about hidden costs: insurance, one-way rental, taxes. Only best agencies like AVIS will show them when you book via internet.
I started with my companion from San Juan early in the morning. We went to the mountains to enjoy the landscapes of the lush green interior covered by the thick forest. Roads are good here, but in the mountains they are narrow. Nature is graet: fern trees, palms, breadfruit... In the stalls on the roadside you can buy bananas (10 for 1 USD) or nice papaya for 2 USD...
We visited little and charming colonial city of San German... and after some 10 hours we arrived to Ponce - second large city of Puerto Rico with rich historic output.
Petrol is cheaper here then in Europe: 87 cents per litre.
I am sweaty and tired but happy after such an interesting day.
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