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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Oct 02, 2011 02:00 PM The capital: one street 200 m long!
Today I was walking from Sravronikita Monastery to the "capital city" of Mount Athos - Karies. Along the trails there are arrows pointing the destinations but the text is in Greek... Do you remember alfa, beta, gamma from the lessons of maths? It is the time to refresh the knowledge!
After 1,5 hours of the walk I reached Karies. The capital of the Monk's Republic has in fact one street where the only shops of the republic are located. There is an old and famous church with a another holy icon and close by - the building of the "government" - in fact the council of 20 abotts from 20 monasteries. I took my chance to take the pictures of the monks here. They normally are not happy to be photographed... :)
Then I was walking through the mountains to the Monastery of Xeropotamou - it took me some 2 hours. Not so pleasant walk since it was all on dusty, gravel road - they build such a roads on Athos recently, changing the landscape. Sorry.
I had enough time to drink one more ouzo+water+lukumi at the monastery gate and then it was already the time to go down to the jetty in Dafni (some 40 minutes walk).
Little ferry "Agia Anna" arrived on time (3.45 pm) to take me back - along the picturesque, sunny coast to Ouranoupolis. My 4-days permit is over. I am happy and satisfied: I had a chance to visit one of the most isolated and exotic places in Europe. Great architecture, strange behaviours :), wonderful landscapes - it is all on Athos!
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Oct 01, 2011 02:00 PM Holy icon, coastal walk, romantic castles...
The next monastery on my Athos trail was Ivirion where I had a chance to see the holy icon of Our Lady of the Gate. They believe that this icon sailed from the Constantinopole by the see to be find here in the Athos water by the fisherman... Long story...
They offered me a meal when I was resting in the shady courtyard. The meals are similar every day: a plate of maccaroni with little cheese on the top, tomato salad, bread, water, apple, sometimes also a glass of local wine... The problem is that you must eat fast. They start the meal on a signal. Silence. No talks. One of the monks is reading a holy story in Greek. When he will finish it means that the meal is over! So hurry up! I missed today my desert ( a piece of watermelon)!
From Ivirion I took a walk along the coast to the other two picturesque monasteries: Pantokrator and Stavronikita. Great views, ang the monasteries are lovely - like medieval castles... I spent the night in the little,cozy Stavronikita. They do not have electricity here. Praing with the oil lamps like thousand years ago....
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Sep 30, 2011 02:00 PM Non-snoring dorm please!
There were some 20 pilgrims sleeping in the monastery. Two foreign tourist were treated as the Greek pilgrims... The monks encouraged us to wake up fo the 4 am liturgy. Sorry, I did not. Why? The Greek fellows were snorig loudly all night and I slept a little bit only. When they went to the church it was a good time to sleep in the silence...
But all hospitality is free of charge here: since one thousand years when monasteries were founded the monks accept pilgrims fo the night, offer simple meals (they eat only twice a day, no meat or eggs) and pray...
This was my hardest day: the rough trail to Megiste Lavra Monastery goes at the bottom of Mt Athos. I was a bit afraid if I will manage this 6 to 7 hours mountain walk... I did!
The begginning was the hardest part - almost 2 hours uphill with all my stuff... Then from the cross located on the ridge I enjoyed great view... After hours at the end of the trail from the little pass I saw down there unexpected Romanian Monastery. It was great temptation - to make a detour (1,5 hours) and to visit this place. It was worth. But when I reached Lavra after 8 hours on the trail I was really tired, true.
No shop to buy food or drinks! And to get the afternoon meal in the huge, ornate reflectory you must go first to the church to attend the service. It is very, very interesting but my reception after this hard walk through the mountains was so... so...
Finally after all ceremonies I got my plate and my bed. Lavra is a big monastery. Ane chance for the non-snoring dorm?
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Sep 29, 2011 02:00 PM Republic of the Monks - day one
(posted four days later)
It was still dark at the Ouranopolis jetty when I was looking there for somebody with my travel permit to Mt Athos. They are not well organized... Finally I found a gentelman in the car speaking with the people through the window. We (all men) were staying in the long line. He checked my passport, asked for 30 euro fee and gave me this valuable paper...
I embarked little ferry "Agia Anna" they charged from me 9,80 euro for the trip to Agia Anna jetty and we departed soon. Everybody was waiting for the sunrise to see the scenery. After an hour I saw the first monastery on the coast. Few people including the monks in black disembarked and we sailed onward. Second monastery, the third. Some of the like castles on the coast. The main port is Dafni - all suppy for the republic goes this way. But I sailed further, knowing from the literature that the most picturesque landscapes and monasteries I can see after Dafni. It was true...
Disembarking at little Santa Anna jetty I was surprised. -Where is skete (sub-monastery) Agia Anna I am booked for the night? They showed me a little chapel up on the hill some 250 m above the sea level. Uff... It was sweaty walk up and up. But at the little monastery courtyard friendly monk treated me on traditional way: I got a glass of spring water, glass of ouzo (local alcohol), lukumi cake and a little cup of the strong coffee! I got my bed in the 6-bed dormitory and in the afternoon I took a walk to the monastery of St Paul. Back in Agia Anna we attended the service in the church and then we got a simple meal. What a view from this eagle's nest!
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Sep 29, 2011 02:00 PM Republic of the Monks - day one
(posted four days later)
It was still dark at the Ouranopolis jetty when I was looking there for somebody with my travel permit to Mt Athos. They are not well organized... Finally I found a gentelman in the car speaking with the people through the window. We (all men) were staying in the long line. He checked my passport, asked for 30 euro fee and gave me this valuable paper...
I embarked little ferry "Agia Anna" they charged from me 9,80 euro for the trip to Agia Anna jetty and we departed soon. Everybody was waiting for the sunrise to see the scenery. After an hour I saw the first monastery on the coast. Few people including the monks in black disembarked and we sailed onward. Second monastery, the third. Some of the like castles on the coast. The main port is Dafni - all suppy for the republic goes this way. But I sailed further, knowing from the literature that the most picturesque landscapes and monasteries I can see after Dafni. It was true...
Disembarking at little Santa Anna jetty I was surprised. -Where is skete (sub-monastery) Agia Anna I am booked for the night? They showed me a little chapel up on the hill some 250 m above the sea level. Uff... It was sweaty walk up and up. But at the little monastery courtyard friendly monk treated me on traditional way: I got a glass of spring water, glass of ouzo (local alcohol), lukumi cake and a little cup of the strong coffee! I got my bed in the 6-bed dormitory and in the afternoon I took a walk to the monastery of St Paul. Back in Agia Anna we attended the service in the church and then we got a simple meal. What a view from this eagle's nest!
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Sep 28, 2011 02:00 PM Sorry... For men only!
There are 20 monasteries and 12 sketes (submonasteries) on Mount Athos peninsula. The monk's republic separated from the world exists already more then thousand years...
From the beginning women are not allowed to enter their terittory.
Men have to apply for the permit - your chances will be better if you will do it 6 months in advance.
If you are lucky (10 permists per day only for the foreigners) leave home your vidoo camera and your shorts (strictly prohibited) and report the day before your term in their office in Ouranoupolis.
I feel like a chosen one... You can enter the republic on the speedboat (the decks are closed - not for me!) or by ferry. Big ferry is broken, but there is also a little one "Agia Anna" departing tomorrow before sunrise. This is my choice! I know that there is no electricity in some monasteries so I do not expect internet to be available. Do not panic, if I will not write during next 4 days. New adventure starts tomorrow!
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Sep 27, 2011 02:00 PM Closer to Mt Athos
Few buses per day depart from Chalkidiki Bus Station to Ouranopolis. You will save few euro buying round-trip ticket for 22 euro.
Just at the door of my Atlantis Hotel I have a bus stop for the bus 45A going directly to this station... "Entering the bus do not forget to validate your ticket"- that's all in English you can hear aboard. But your stop is the last stop so do not worry...
The long distance bus is departing at 8.30. It is off-season time -there were only 5 of us - the passengers aboard.
It took us 2,5 hours via the side roads and small villages spread out in the green mountains to come to Ouranopolis - little village on the coast. Ouranopolis is practically the only gateway to the Republic of the Monks on Mt Athos. The village is sleepy. I found the room in the Cosy Makedonia Hotel.
Now I am going tho check my permit for the republic. I noticed on arrival that the ferry going daily to Daphni at 9.45 is broken. I hope to find the other solution... The sun is strong and I see the bue sea from my balcony...
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Sep 26, 2011 02:00 PM Thessaloniki
The big town of Thessaloniki is the jumping point for the trips to Mt Athos. I found out that Malev - Hungarian airlines offer the best prices for the flights from Poland to Thessaloniki.
But is was not so convenient - after connection in Budapest I landed in Thessaloniki airport in the middle of the night.
Fortunately in the departure hall there is enough place on the chairs to lay down and wait until the morning. Nobody will bother you...
In the morning I took the city bus 78 to get to the central Egnatia Street (ticket in the kiosk cost 0,80 euro). Atlantis Hotel at Egnatia 14 offers here cheap rooms (25 euro with shared bath), but I was forced to wait till the check-in time...
Street names are both in Greek and latin alphabet... Few people speak English on the street - this is my first imperession. I remember Saloniki from 70-ties. The White Tower and the waterfront. Weather is sunny and warm - like during the summer in Poland. So it is the time to take a pleasant walk around the city... Greetings from sunny Greece!
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Sep 25, 2011 02:00 PM On the trail again!
Have you heard about the Republic of the Monks? There is something like this - a dependent territory of Greece. But it is governed by their own laws. They do not tolerate the presence of women and require men to apply for a special entry permit several months in advance. With the help of outstanding Greek globetrotter Harry Mitsidis I was able to obtain such a permit and I'm going backpacking to Mt Athos. I plan to wander from monastery to monastery for few days. I hope that my fitness and the weather will be good enough to meet this challenge...
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Sep 20, 2011 02:00 PM Flying Air Baltic...
It was raining heavily in Saint Petersburg in the morning when I left SPB hostel. This hostel is nothing special but it has very convenient location: subway station is just around the corner and the starting stop of K-213 matshrutka (minibus) going to the Pulkovo airport is located just on the opposite side of the street.
I took marshrutka. It costs 30 roubles, they did not charge me for the backpack (normally - 20 roubles extra for big packs).
Allow one hour to get to the terminal - for the international flights it will be Pulkovo 2. Check in is very slow, but they close flights only 40 min before departure.
Waiting rooms are crampy but security did not care about the water in my cabin luggage.
Air Baltic - Latvian carrier has low prices, but they charge extra 20 euro for each piece of checked luggage. Cabin allowance is 8 kg...
On board you are gettin nothing for free: a cup of tea or mineral water will cost you 2,50 euro - so bring your sanwiches with you (I did! :) )
I had two hours for the connection in Riga and my next flight to Gdansk was on time. Great views of the Baltic coast on the route!
Welcome home! One more interesting voyage is over...
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