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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Oct 18, 2005 02:00 PM Sailing Caspian Sea...
The ferries on the Caspian Sea have no timetable. They said: it will be around 12 hours sail... There is no shop or bar or restaurant onboard so you must bring all your food with you... What you can expect is boiled water from the staff mess to make your tea... I did not see any sockets in the cabins or corridors so the electric tea/coffee makers are useless...
I survived... In the afternoon we pass famous sea oil platforms. At 4 pm I saw for the first time (from the sea) the capital of Azerbaijan and at 5pm - after 15 hours of sailing we disembarked the ship.
Border formalities are simple here - they x-ray your luggage so there is no need to open the backpack. No currency exchange at the poor "Terminal". But it is not far from the town - I walked about 25 minutes to the last expensive Araz Hotel (just turn right on the main coastal street). They offered me a bed in the triple room for 6,50 USD. The exchange both is nearby. They pay 4600 manat for 1 USD. Good night in Azerbaijan!
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Oct 17, 2005 02:00 PM The only tourist in Turkmenistan?
Turkmenbashi (former Krasnovodsk) is important harbour on the eastern coast of the Caspian Sea... It has picturesque location - at the bottom of the dramatic mountains... They write in the guidebooks that every day there are ferries departing from Turkmenbashi to Baku in Azerbaijan...
The fifth day in Turkmenistan... Can you imagine? I did not see any other tourist in this country!
In the early morning I came by taxi to the ferry terminal. It is located well off the town - they charge 15000 manat per ride.
The terminal was empty. I asked bored policeman: Where is the ferry? -Due the stormy weather the ship did not arrive! - Any hope? We do not know! Look how strong is the wind! Wow! I do not want to overstay my visa!... What can I expect from Turkmenbashi administration?
I was waiting hours and hours... Fortunately the ferry arrived in the evening. I bought a last expensive ticket (45 USD plus 2 USD formalities, plus 2500 manat insurance (keep some manats ready) passed through nasty customs control and finally happy boarded the ship... The purser offered me single cabin with bath for just 10 USD extra - it was worth. We finally departed at 2 am but I already had my stamp in the passport...
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Oct 16, 2005 02:00 PM Golden monuments of Ashgabat...
Did you hear about Ashgabat? It is located only 10 km from the Iranian border. In the central part of the city you will see a lot of new, futuristic buildings... Golden dome of the Presidential Palace, the Neutrality Arch - huge column with golden statue of Turkmenbashi at the top. There is also brand- new Independence Monument surrounded by giant fountains. It is housing the Museum of Turkmen Values (entry fee for foreigners - 10 USD). And they still build a lot... - the XXIst century was announced The Golden Age of Turkmenistan. I did not see any other capital city like that in the world. Distances are large so it is better to use taxi to go around - they charge just 10000 (US 40 cents) per ride.
Tomorrow I must leave country - I cannot overstay my visa! in the afternoon I took a multi - hours ride to the coast of Caspian Sea - first to Balkanabat (it is easier to go in stages), then to Turkmenbashi... There is many check-points on the roads. I have been already registered more then 20 times!... But if your visa is OK there is no reason to be afraid - it is just formality and young soldiers are friendly... And that's what I like most in this country - the people: hospitable, friendly and helpful!...
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Oct 15, 2005 02:00 PM Turkmenbashi, Turkmenbashi...
Central part of Mary is imposing: wide, empty streets, parks, flowers. In the morning I took a 10-min walk to the Niyazov Park to photograph another monument of the President. It is again gold-painted, surrounded by fountains and rabats of roses. In the same park there is another monument - The Mother of Turkmenbashi... Great...
It is Sunday - the market day at the Tekke bazar located just 4 km from the town. Any minibus marked " Jarmark" will take you there. Crowd of people, smells, noise... There is still the atmosphere of oriental bazaar... I went to the carpet section with many colors and patterns - this is the place to be! They sell there also traditional Turkmen hats - for just 50000 manat -like 2 USD - nice souvenirs from this country...
In the afternoon I took again share taxi to the capital city. Due to the low cost of the petrol transport is dirty cheap here: 65000 (less then 3 USD) manat for 4-hours taxi ride. I found last expensive Dayhan Hotel - they charge 20 USD per twin room with bath - it is conveniently located in the centre...
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Oct 14, 2005 02:00 PM Turkmenistan - pay in dollars!
My first night in Turkmenistan I spent in Turkmenabat. It was not easy to find the Amu Daria Hotel close to the station. Why? They do not use already Russian Script and I do not know Turkmen language. You see the building, sometheing is written on it but you do not know what... I asked elderly people - they know Russian. I found the hotel... Yes -we have the room, but foreigners must pay in dollars! It will be 20 USD! Sorry, too much... But there is other, cheaper hotel: Gunesh - they charge only 6 USD. I found Gunesh Hotel. Run-down, but OK for one night... Then I took a walk to see the first gold-painted monument of Turkmenbashi...
Today I took a share taxi to Mary - provincial town closest to the ancient Marv. It cost 50000 manat per seat. I found empty Sanjar Hotel close to the station - and I was not surprised when they asked for 15 USD. In the afternoon I found taxi driver who took me to the ancient Merv - once important town on the Silk Road, destroyed completly by Jengis Khan... They charge 22000 manat per entry plus for cameras... In comparison to the other hubs of the Silk Road there is not much to see, but still worth a visit...
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Oct 13, 2005 02:00 PM Turkmenistan - 80 l of petrol for just 1 USD...
(posted from Baku)
I got Turkmenistan transit visa in Tashkent. Valid for 5 days only. You must declare in advance the dates of entry and exit... It cost me 31 USD in cash. From the embasy I went to the Tashkent train station and jump on the night train to Bukhara (sleeper cost 10000). We arrived to Bukhara at 8 am.
From Bolshoy Rynok I took share taxi with Turkmen ladies to the border point - it cost only 3000 sum per seat...
Desert. From lonely Uzbekistan Check point dirty bus will take you to the terminal for the clearance (2km - 250 sum). They will search your luggage and pockets... Then you can walk to Turkmenistan... Just 1 km. At the road barrier the soldiers stopped me It was like 12.05 pm... Strong sun. Dust and wind. "The officials are out for lunch. They will be back around 2pm" - they say in poor Russian. I was waiting 2 hours. Then they ask to pay 10 USD for entry card and 1000 manat commission. -But I have not your money! They changed my dollars without any receipt... 22000 manats per USD. Free market rate is 24-25000 (I recognized that later). They have good profit! So do not change much... Don't take a taxi (they can charge 10 times more then from locals) - just walk... A car will stop soon and take you to the first village: Farab for 10000 or less. You are in very strange country: for the equivalent of 1 USD you can buy 80 l of petrol !!!
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Oct 12, 2005 02:00 PM Uzbekistan - waiting for Turkmen visa...
Domestic flights in Uzbekistan are inexpensive, it is easy to get the ticket and they have the same tariff for locals and foreigners... The flight from Urgench (close to Khiva) to Tashkent cost me like 40 USD... - I saved like 20 hours on the bumpy roads...
I am waiting till 5 pm for my Turkmen visa... Little nervous...
If I'll get it today I plan to take night train to the border and to cross it tomorrow. Turkmenistan does not like strangers... The country leader is... hmmm....
People say theat there is limited access to the internet so I so not know when I'll be able to post next message. Just keeep your finger crossed, please!
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Oct 11, 2005 02:00 PM Via the Kizyl-Kum Desert...
It is more then 500 km from Bukhara to Khiva - former capital of the cruel Khanate of Khiva... Ask around for the other travellers to share the taxi since the transport in this direction is limited and you can wait hours and hours Karvon Bazar stand waiting for departure... They charge like 12 000 sum per seat in the minibus. There are public buses - junk ones - I saw two of them broken on the roadside... Share taxi - Daewoo Nexia (Uzbekistan is the Daewoo kingdom) cost like 70 USD per car to Khiva.
The road is rather narrow and will take you through Kizyl-Kum Desert - monotonous landscape... After 5,5 hours you will reach Khiva. They have few B&B institiutions within the old town - I stayed at new Islambek - after season they charge 12000 per single with bath and breakfast...
I spent afternoon visiting attractions of the old town - it is more compact then Samarkand or Bukhara - all walled around. In the western gate they sell entry tickets: 7000 sum for all places plus 2500 for still camera plus 3500 for video.... But do not worry... there are other gates and gaps to get into and nobody control the tickets on the streets. Enjou the beauty of the old architecture, take pictures smile to the people... Entering the palace pay just 500 sum to the caretaker...
The best light fot the pictures is in the late afternoon. The best panoramic view - from the roof terrace of friendly Arkanchi Hotel. Take also the walk around the old town after dark - empty streets and the moonlight will give you more...
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Oct 10, 2005 02:00 PM Mosques, medresas, palaces... watermelons in Bukhara...
You will need full day to visit at least main attractions of Bukhara - another lovely town on the historic Silk Road... The monuments here are not as large as in Samarkand but they are even more exciting... and suitable to visit by foot... There are famous carpet workshops to visit and the highest minaret in Central Asia - 47 - m high Kalon. To see today's life of Bukhara go to the Bolshoy Rynok - Great Bazaar... It is walking distance... They sell there huge 6-kg watermelons for just 1000 sum (less then 1 USD). People are nice, they accept photography and there is no police bothering you...
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Oct 09, 2005 02:00 PM Ramadan in Bukhara...
There is mistake in the Lonely Planet Guide: the share taxis from Samarkand to Bukhara go not from Ulugbek Observatory but from the rounbout called POVOROT. Take minibus 4 or 45 to go there... Then ask... They charge 7000 sum per seat to Bukhara but few cars go there. You will be probably forced to take the car to Navoi (4000) and then to Bukhara (3500). Taxi drivers are not gently - he asked me extra 1500 to take me to the pension in the center of the old town - it is better to write on the piece of paper where you are going and the price...
Fatima Hotel in old Bukhara is highly recommended! They are located just on front of the old medresa - close to the pool where are chaikhanas and open-air restaurants. They charge 15000 sum for new single room with bathroom and substantial breakfast. Fatima - the owner speaks english and is very helpful... There were only 6 of us in the pension (end of season)- she invited all of us to the special meal they have after the sunset... It is the Ramadan and they do not eat all day. But in the evening there is like a feast - they invite family and friends to eat... Enjoyable!
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