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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Apr 26, 2005 02:00 PM How to cross the border to Mozambique?
I am still in Malawi - in Blantyre - the economical capital of this country. It is worth to see here old church of St Mike and all Angels. And small museum - that's all... I stay in the overpriced Doogles Lodge - not recommended but close to the bus station - just 100 m.
It took me yesterday full day to move from Mzuzu down to Blyntyre.
I am trying to find here updated info on the best route to Mozambique.
Yes, I have a visa. The problem is: on the other side of the border the roads are VERY bad and you can wait many days for your chance to go onward... We will see - just keep your fingers crossed!
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Apr 24, 2005 02:00 PM The view from Livingstonia - Malawi
I was staying in the early morning in the bottom of 800 - m high cliff at the marker "Livingstonia 15 km". Bumpy gravel road starts there. No local transport. Local people are waiting hours and hours... Me too... But we got our chance: the truck going up with some cement, gravel and other construction materials. It took 1,5 hours to reach old mission established in 1894 (I think?). They charged us 200 per person...
There is church, the museum in the Stone House and... beautiful view of the lake on the horizon, mountains, valleys...
Worth to make such effort...
If you are not in a hurry you can stay overnight for 850 kwacha with breakfast in the museum building - there are 3 dorms and victorian sitting room. Enjoy!
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Apr 23, 2005 02:00 PM Cruising Lake Nyassa /Malawi/ - the African Beauty
Yesterday I celebrated my nameday in Nkhata Bay on the shore of the Lake Nyassa. It is worth to recommend Mayoka Lodge located on the southern cliff of the bay. It is 25 min walk from the village or 400 kwacha taxi ride...
Mayoka staff is very friendly - they offer accommodation in the comfy chalets for 7 USD, there is snorkeling, kayaks, walks...
Today I spent full day on board of the old ship "Ilala" - cruising on the schedule end to end of the lake. What a wonderful experience!
It takes me full day /7am to 8 pm/ to sail from Nkhata Bay to Chilumba. Enjoying the views of the hilly coasts and villages. The boat makes stops and people come to the ship in their dougout canoes... It was excellent relax after all adventures of my african expedition...
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Apr 21, 2005 02:00 PM Malawi visa - how to solve the problem?
Believe me or not: herd of elephants /about 12 with babies/ said Goodbye to us at the reception of Flatdogs Camp when we were departing South Luangwa.... It is not easy to find the local transport from Mwfue to Chipata. I was lucky to met in the camp very nice couple from Switzerland and they offered me a ride - thak you so much Richard and Andrea!
Five hours later we reached border of Malawi. Surprise!!!!: - You need a visa to enter Malawi! - said black officer... What shoul we do now? Most of the african countries interested in the development of tourism issue visas at the bordes posts! - But you: Switzerlan and Poland are not on the list! - he said.
Problem.... Finally he issued temporary 2-days permit on the piece of yellow paper. With this paper we got our visas in the immigration office in the capital city of Lilongwe. 3000 Malawi kwacha to pay, no photos, 2 hours waiting... 1 USD is worth 120 Mkwacha.
So while in trouble - ask for the yellow paper...
Welcome to Malawi!~
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Apr 20, 2005 02:00 PM South Luangwa Park - one of the best...
I can recommend Flatdogs Camp in South Luangwa to the backbackers... Their best kept secrets are two cottages with 2 beds each - they charge just 10 USD for clean bed with the net. Baths are only 30 m away...
For the first game ride into the park (4 hours by car with guide) they charge 30 USD, the second will cost you 25. I addition you will pay 20 USD park entry fee per day... But it is worth!
I took one morning and one night ride - We saw antelopes, zebras, big herds of elephants, hipos, crocodiles, buffalos and more.. also birds...
It was one of the best visits to the park in my life...
Vervet monkeys and baboons operated around my cottage. Keep the dors locked!!!
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Apr 19, 2005 02:00 PM Elephants are waiting on the road.... Zambia
It is easy to find the transportation from Lusaka to the provincial town of Chipata in the eastern part of Zambia.
Bus ticket will cost you 65000 kwacha. Once in Chipata you will try to find small bus or matola to the village of Mwfue - closest to the main gate of South Luangwa National Park.
Yes there was a minibus - but I was waiting 3 hours in the heat until it was full. They charged hefty 30000 for the ride and it took us 5.5 hours on the bumpy, muddy road...
It was dark when we arrive to Mwfue. The Flatdogs camp where I decided to stay overnight is located only 2 km from the village. They wanted too much for a car ride. I decided to put my backpack on and to walk...
Local people stoped me: there are wild animals on the road - you cannot walk in the darkness! Hard to believe! I got a free car ride: yes, I saw the elephants on this 2-km road and they were not happy to get off the road....
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Apr 18, 2005 02:00 PM Zambia: be careful in Lusaka!
Yesterday it took me full, tiring day in the crowded bus to came from Mbala to Lusaka - more then 1000 km on the road. But the price of the ticket is OK: 75000 kwacha /for 1 USD they pay 4600 kwacha/.
I am staying in the overpriced Kuomboka Backpackers /30000 per bed in the crampy 10-beds dormitory/.
Lusaka is: central Cairo Rd and.... the rest...
Just today in the morning when I was filming in the main street a thief tried to take the camera from my bag. There were a lot of local people around but nobody react... Shame...
Due to the ship delay on the Tanganyika Lake I will not go detour from Lusaka to Livingstone and back. It will be not a big loss bacause I already saw Victoria Falls from the Zimbabwe side... Next time...
Here are good internet cafees in the central Lusaka - thanks for all your letters and greetings - sorry I'll response after return...
Now big laundry - Africa brings a lot of sweat... Tomorrow I plan to go east via South Luangwa Park to Malawi - escaping Lusaka as soon as possible...
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Apr 16, 2005 02:00 PM Kalambo Falls - did you hear?
MPULUNGU - what a name! - It was evening when I disembarked my cargo boat in the sleepy port on the Lake Tanganyika... I got Zambian visa on arrival for 25 USD and... unpleasant adventure... Young Zambian customs checked my luggage in details... even pills in the first aid kit.... it took about half an hour... then they asked if I have a gift for them... Sorry no gifts...
I walked in the dark to the village where I met very nice lady - Beauty - the headmaster of the school. He helped me to find accommodation in the guest house /21000 kwacha for the room with shower/ and to change money...
Today - Sunday - we took a trip to nearest township - Mbala and then bumpy road to Kalambo falls /like 35 km one way from Mbala/ - it was worth! The fall is 225 m high and they say it is second single drop fall in Africa! One more great waterfall to my collection... And one more experience: there are bad but also nice people in Zambia...
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Apr 15, 2005 02:00 PM Take Tanganyika by cargo ship!
Good luck came back to me!
Yesterday I was waiting 6 hours in the Port of Kigoma.
Will they embark me or not? Will they?
Yes, I am sailing on the cargo boat "Ndaje" south - to the Zambian port Mpulungu...
Sun, pleasant wind on a deck and navy-blue lake around - wide like a sea... With the mountains of Cango on the horizon... It is more then 700 km - fortunately it is direct sail - they announced that we will reach destination after 27-28 hours... Hurrah!
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Apr 13, 2005 02:00 PM Bad news: I am locked in Kigoma... - Tanzania
Lake Tanganika - surrounded by mountains is beautiful...
Today I visited the village of Ujiji just 8 km south of Kigoma - where once Stanley found David Livingstone - there is fenced monument located surprisely not on the shore but some 800 m inland - the level of the lake is much lower now. But what a place!
Bad news: the famous steamer "Liemba" /ex-German war ship/ cruising Lake Tanganika is out of service since one month! The other Tanzanian passenger boat is also broken - waiting for the spare parts. It is Africa....
How can I get to Zambia now? Three days by train to Dar es Salam and another two days by bus or train to Lusaka.... There are no available rail tickets in 1st and 2nd class till 21st April... Third class... Five days in the heat...
There is single airline who operate Kigoma-Dar route but they charge hefty 190 USD per one-way!
Cargo boats? The response is: we do not know when and they are not authorized to carry passengers...
Are you keeping your fingers crossed?
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