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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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May 11, 2005 02:00 PM Durban - RSA - not so safe
The bus from Maputo arrived to Durban in the late afternoon. I know Durban from my previous voyages. The closest bacpackers accommodation to the bus station is Banana Backpackers on Pine Street. It is off season now and they are almost empty. They charge 60 rands for dorm bed or 80 if you want private room. Nick at the reception handed me out the map of the city marking with pen areas who are dangerous to walk even in the daylight... Well - it is already different Africa. I was feeling much safer in the remote villages in Zambia or Mozambique then in this big metropolis... I took a walk to the Emanuel cathedral - close to the Victoria Street Market.... At the dusk they are closing all shops (because of safety?) - so buy your food earlier!!!
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May 10, 2005 02:00 PM Resting in Maputo...
Bus transport in Mozambique is cheap: I took the direct bus from Inhambane to Maputo - only 180000 meticais for 9 hours of travel. It is less then 9 USD. When I entered Mozambique they paid 20000 per dollar, today they paid 23000 so do not change all your money on entry.
It was the trip from tiny fishing village to the big concrete blocks... The capital city has good internet connections /you pay 30000 per hour/, more goods in the shops /worth to buy here the supply if you are heading north/... White cathedral and colonial Polana Hotel are the landmarks not to be missed. I stay in the center of the town - in the Pensao Central they charge 250000 per crampy single room /take a back room and keep the net windows closed - they have not mosquito nets on the beds/. I made today a big laundry before the final stage of my journey: tomorrow I plan to enter RSA by bus - the Cape Town is closer and closer... Now it is already my fourth month on tha african roads. No, I don't feel tired... But yes - I feel the homesick. There must be beautiful spring already in Poland....
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May 08, 2005 02:00 PM Tofo Beach in Mozambique...
They say it is the most beautiful beach in Mozambique...
To get to Tofo - small fishing village - from the north you must get off at Maxixe, take the ferry /10000 meticais/ to Inhambane, walk to the market and take a cramped chapa microbus to Tofo. They charge 10000+10000 for the backpack.
The best place to stay in Tofo for the backpacker is Fatima's Nest - the camp is located just on the dunes. They charge 110000 meticais for dorm bed or 300000 per your own reed bungalow.
Yes, it is ver beautiful place - the beach is 4 km long, clean and wide /at low tide/ and almost empty. You can buy fish at the village and cook it yourself at the comunal kitchen... The ocean is roaring at the high tide so do not forget to bring your earplugs if you are sensitive... The beer costs 25000 per big bottle... There are people who stay here for weeks enjoying the sea and the sun...
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May 07, 2005 02:00 PM Coral gardens of Bazaruto Archipelago...
Little coastal town of Vilanculos in the base for the visi to famous Bazaruto Archipelago - one of the main tourist attractions of Mozambique... I found accommodation at Zombie Cucumber camp site /150000 meticais in a dorm with materess on the flor and mosquito net/ Alternatively you can stay in the 2-3 bed chalet /500000 per chalet - overpriced if you are alone/. There is bar and nice garden around... If you can walk 1 km farther along the beach stay at Smugglers - they are less expensive, have a pool and rooms with bath.
But the main attraction here is a day trip to the islands. There are 5 of them. You can take traditional dhow to the nearest island, but it takes a time and you are dependent on the winds...
I can recommend Mr Renoir. He charged 50 USD per day tour by motor Zodiac and we visited 3 islands. The snorkeling on the 2-mile reef was excelent! - it was one of the best places around the world... What a variety of coral and fish! Don't miss to climb the high sand dune on the Bazaruto Island - the view from the top is just fantastic!
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May 05, 2005 02:00 PM I saw Hilton Hotel in Beira
Thy say that Beira is second largest city in Mozambique...
It is important transport hub... That's why I am here...
There were Hilton Hotel opened in Beira just before independence...
Now the former Hilton is inhabited by some 2000 homeless people - no electricity, no windows, no hope...
There is nothing to see except this ghost luxury hotel and the poor cathedral... I spend a night at inexpensive Pensao Moderna close to the cathedral - they charge 250 000 meticais for the small room without bath.
Intercity buses leave very early in the morning - it is the rule in Mozambique. I get up at 3 am and walk to Ave Danial Napatima - the minibus was waiting. I got one seat to Vilanculos for 250 000. All male passengers pushed the minibus, the motor eventually started and we went to Vilanculos - 9 hours drive - be patient, it is Africa!
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May 03, 2005 02:00 PM Ibo Island - Querimba Archipelago -what a place!
First get up early and take 5 am chapa frem the fishing village to Quissanga. It will cost 100000 meticais and a lot of patiency - the country road is in very poor condition: a lot of bumps, dust, sand. It takes 5 hours to the landing point where you will catch the real dhow used by local people to get to the Ibo Island. They charge only 20 000 for 2-3 hours trip under the old sail... Just fantastic! Mangrove chanels, sea birds, locals chating on the boat in the strange language... Embarcation and landing are of course wet... But what a place you will reach!!. Porto Ibo was lovely Portugeese setlement during colonial days. Now you will see there a lot of ruins overgrown by tropical vegetattion like Angkor... The rows of fancy columns. The canons in the old fort. Closed church, remaind of the gardens and the plaza... Silence... Remotness... No doctor, no restaurant... You can stay in lovely Bella Vista Lodge /250 000 in the 2-beds dorm/ and enjoy their beautiful sunsets... Very few people saw them!
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May 01, 2005 02:00 PM Pemba - Northern Mozambique
Very few tourists travel to the North of Mozambique - it is off the main trails. But if you want to visit the remote Querimba Archipelago - this is the gateway...
From Ilha Moz take a 5 am chapa to Namialo (hefty 60000) - then you will catch there a regular bus /110 000 for ticket/ to Pemba. It is provincial town - the moost interesting part - traditional fishing village of Patiquette lies on the little peninsula. There is nice beach at suburb Wimbie - but I do not recommend to stay there at the Russels Place - it is overpriced and rather meeting point for the local expats at the bar - just another come-and-drink. In the centre of the town you will find Residencial Lyn - with rooms from 250 000.
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Apr 29, 2005 02:00 PM Ilha Mozambique - do not miss it!
It is the former capital of the Portugeese colony. It is located on the little island connected with the mainland by 1,5 km causeway. One of the most interesting historical places in Africa... It is divided into two parts: The Stone Town where colonial buildings are and the Reed Town - where local people still live in the traditional houses. There is special atmosphere in the narrow , sandy streets... There is a lot to see but the place is till small enough to explore it by foot. Very picturesque place with palm trees, beaches, old architecture - the real paradise for the photographers! People are very nice and during all day I saw here only 5 tourists! But they already charge for the entry to the museums and the fort - the combined ticket cost 100 000 meticais. The best place to stay is tiny Casa Luis - Private Garden. There is bucket shower only byt they charge only 200 000 meticais for the single. Do not forget to be at the beach at 4 pm when fishing boats are returning - what a spectacle!
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Apr 28, 2005 02:00 PM African train adventure - Mozambique
There is nothing to do in Cuamba - I stayed in the Pensao Namancha at the main square - bucket shower only, run down but inexpensive and they have nets in the windows.
Train leaves at 5 am 3 times a week. Come the day before at 4 pm to buy your ticket - it cost 250000 meticais for the 2nd class and half of this in the 3rd (not recommended).
The journey takes up to 11 hours - you can enjoy the beauty of the landscapes and you will see a lot of people at the stations selling bananas , manioc, oranges, peanuts, sugar cane, live chickens... all they have to offer... The big railway theatre!... Once in Nampula in front of the station I found Chapa - pick-up truck going to the Ilha Mozambique - they put me in the back... Police control at the exit of Nampula was horrible: they took us off (two white tourists) and asked to put on the pavement all we have in our carry-on bags... What a hospitality! It is the worst experience during this expedition...
Nobody of local people were controlled...
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Apr 27, 2005 02:00 PM By cargo train to Mozambique...
Regarding poverty of the roads I decided to come as close as possible to the train line Cuamba - Nampula. But how to get to Cuamba - it is still 80 km inland from the border?? On the Malawi side I took one by one four minibuses and trucks: to Limbe, then to Liwonde, to Nsanama and finally to the border village of Nayuchi. It was already dark when I reached Nayuchi - no electricity there, but I found the bed in the poor house close to the immigration building (they charged 250 kwacha)
In the morning they open the border at 7.30 - I got the stamp in my passport and walk along the sandy road (like 2-3 km) to the Mozambique post in Entre Lagos. OK. I paid 30000 meticais of entry fee /there are money changers/ and... what now... how to get onward? They said: wait... an hour, two... And the miracle: the train! Cargo train! They put me to the brake compartment at the last wagon. They charged 50 000 - but I was going to Cuamba! Rail track is VERY poor. It took us like 3 hours to come to Cuamba station - but what a adventure!
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