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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Sep 22, 2024 12:00 AM Great lakes of Tibet
Not far from Mt Kailash there are beautiful and quiet big lakes. So far they are accesible only by gravel roads, but it is worth to ne be there to enjoy conalt color of water, green and yellow meadows and white snow on the mountains. I met there local family in the national dressing so I am happy to show you them. Later we returned to our main road heading to distant Saga. That's like 9 hours drive through the beautiful emptiness: yak and sheep pastures, green wetlands under fantastic clouds! It will be one more long and tiring day in Western Tibet. But what a great impression!
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Sep 21, 2024 12:00 AM Guge Kingdom - the end of Western Tibet
It is not nice to wake up in the darkness, to rush with a breakfast and report at the car with all your luggage... But this happened here every day! At sunrise we were already at the entrance to well- restored ruins of Guge Kingdom. It was 10-11 century when in this area was a powerful king and his people was making big money between Tibet, India, Pakistan... Gold was main product... We know little about details, but today I saw remains of Guge...
From the ticket office they will take you on eco-electric bus to the bottom of the hill where temples are built on the different levels. Be prepared for the serious climbing high stone steps if you want to see more. There are caves, where people lived, remains of comunal buildings, frescos on the temple walls. And of vourse great, panoramic view from the upper part of the hill. Who knows about Guge? It is the last frontier of Western Tibet. Further west is closed for foreigners disputed territory of Aksai Chin. So we turned back, climbing again 5000+ snowy passes and enjoying the landscapes along G219 road, exposed by the strong, evening sun. I saw yaks and wild donkeys before we reached our hotel at 8 pm. Tomorrow will be another busy day!
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Sep 20, 2024 12:00 AM Marvelous Valley...
Did I epect that I will be throwing snow balls today? After lunch we started our long drive to the west. After 2 hours we turned left - up the mountains. There were 3 snow-covered passes on the way. The last was the highest: 5370 m. Thes was our record on this expedition! We made a stopover to make the pictures on the snow. Then we started descent to the control point at the bottom of the range.
After turn to Da Da we fouund ourself in the marvelous valley. Imagine eroded high rock formation on both sides of multi-kilometers canyon. Little known marvel! Late in the afternoon we reached provincial town of DaDa with little but bright monastery. Great day!
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Sep 19, 2024 12:00 AM Famous Mount Kailash
There are few mountains in the world who has spiritual meaning for people. Do you remember my climbing of Mt Fuji in Japan or Ayers Rock in Australia? Here, on Tibet they have 6600 meters high Mt Kailash.
The road G219 is rather bumpy, forcing often the driver to reduce speed. The base for 3-days walk around Kailash is little town of Darchen. Bulldogers removed old houses making the place for the new hotels on approach it is worth to make stopover at the entrance to the town. If it is clear you will see on front pf you copula-like summit, overlooking other ones. This is magic Kailash!
Buddha beliewers and tourists are coming here to walk
3-days kora - walk around the mountain.
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Sep 19, 2024 12:00 AM Ready for Kailash kora?
Kora is 3-days religious trail around Mt Kailash. It requires 2 overnight stays in the primitive dormitory accommodation on the route, in poor sanitary conditions and limited food offered. First day it is 20 km medium walk to little monastery. Second day there will be difficult climb to the pass, third day - easy walk down. For Buddhists is religious event, but why tourists are making kora? It doesn't offer any super-extra views because you walk too close to the summit. Probably they want to add one more famous trek to the list of their achievements. On the day one you start in the dark at 7.00 and walk to the park gate, where you pay for entry ticket. Then you walk along many mani walls, stupas and prayer weels to Kangyi chorten where it is possible to rent a horse for you or even yak for your baggage. Happy climbing!
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Sep 17, 2024 12:00 AM 510 kms of mountain roads
We departed today from Saga before sunrise - at 8 am. My companions were not happy, but it is a fistance and ee wanted te reach the target before sunrise. On the outskirts of the town we started the climb to the first pass - 4800 m. Unfortunately the pases has names in Chinese only, no maps so you cannpt recognize the names. Then we went down to the valley with many yak herds. Then drive up again and a kind of mini desert overlooking upper Brahmaputra River. When sun arrived there were many opportunities to photohraph snow- capped mountains. We entered in the afternoon West Tibet province called Neri (in Tibetan) or Ali (in Chinese). Strong control again... When we climbed next pass on the left side I saw a big lake Manasarovar. Old ladies on the car park were selling dried fish from this huge lake... 6 pm. Are we already 10 hours on the road? Fortunately I am already adjusted to the high altilitude, no headache, no coughing... Only one more drive to Darchen! That's Himalaya!
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Sep 16, 2024 12:00 AM To the Western Nepal...
I woked up early- at 6 am in the dark and cold to be ready to see the sunrise on Everest. Unfortunately it was covered by clouds. Only 1 hour later I had a chance to see the northern face during maybe 5-6 minutes. We took an eco- bus (45 min) to get eut of the park. Our Tibetan driver was waiting to drive us along Tingri Road through the sunny landscapes of Himalaya. Controls, controls again... Tingri West is a road hub. After lunch we were heading west again. For me it is completely new area to explore. Only few years ago Chinese built here paved road heading to the snow-covered peaks. If you are lucky you wil see Shishapangma among the others. Very impressive stopover we maid on the Lake Pelkhu-tso. It is unspoiled turquoise beauty... Then two passes around 4600 m each with panoramic views...
We reached small town of Saga only at 6 pm. After broken previous night I need a shower and good rest. Good night from Himalaya!
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Sep 15, 2024 12:00 AM Everest North Face
In 1987 after 10 days trek from Jiri, Nepal I saw the southern face of Mt Everest. Since then I was thinking about seeing the north face of the highest mountain. The dream came true today! The access to Chinese EBC (Everest Base Camp) is not so difficult. The biggest problem is to arrange all formalities, get permits and rent a car with the driver. Our car started from Shigatse at 8.30. We reached the target only at 6.30 pm after climbing two 5000 plus passess. Chinese EBC is disappointing!
They told me we will sleep in the tent on the level of 5200 m. Yes, but it is not a single tent - it is primitive tent city for several hundreds people. I will sleep having one ski-style dark toilet 50 m away, and without sink to wash the hands and face!
And you will see Everest from the distance of 1 kmor more! Anyway the view of the mountain from rebuilt Rongbook Monastery was impressive! Now I need to survive in such a conditions and night cold till morning! And what a satisfaction! I saw also The North Face!
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Sep 14, 2024 12:00 AM Lakes, glaciers, monasteries...
Already at 8 am, after Chinese breakfast we embarked our minibus and started to climb roads to the south. There are 12 people on our expedition group from US, Canada, Vietnam, Australia, New Zealand and China of course. Tibetan driver smiles but doesn't know even single English word. The young guide speaks 3 languages but prefere Chinese to English...
After passing the airport we were climbing the high green ridge to 4000 m plus. On the other side of the ridge there was great view of turquoise Lake Yamdrok. Few hour later I found myself even higher - on the level 5020 m - under impressive Karola Glacier. Nice chorten was built under the glacier - many people enjoy the scenery here. In the late afternoon we reached historic city of Gyantse. First there was a visit to Security Bureau to get one more permit. Got it! Then in the strong sun we walked the beautiful Tibetan monastery. Tired we reached our hotel in Shigatse already after dark. Great day!
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Sep 13, 2024 12:00 AM Enjoying Jokhang. Climbing to Potala...
One more sunny day in the capital of Tibet. In the morning I visited the holy temple of Jokhang. Reservation is required, then security and passport control... Crowd of prosteating people in front of the main gate... Sorry, their clothes are different from these I saw here 37 years ago... Great view of golden towers from the main courtyard. Only here and on the roof galery you can take pictures. Crowd of local people throwing banknotes in front of holy figures. Many of them brought yak butter to add it to the candles. Unusual atmosphere!
Later they took me to the bottom of Potala - winter palace of Dalai Lamas. Controls, controls... Then you have to climb zigzaging staircase cobbled by irregular stones up and up. Finally you are on the terrace for religious festivals and soon you will enter the interior. Only part of the palace is open for visitors: on the few different levels connected by steep, narrow steps there are quarters and stupas of 7th and 8th Dalailama and reception hall of two last heads of Tibetan Buddhism. Years ago I saw more... But the view of the mountains is still excellent and worth the sweaty climb!
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