After a trip through Northern Greece, we wanted to get a quick, first impression of Southern Albania, before we would go home. We had our doubts, because we did not know anything about the country except it's 40 years of isolation...
The only transportation in the whole country...Mercedes!
After we dropped our rental car in Igoumenitsa (Greece), we took the bus (40 min.) to the recently opened border crossing of Mavromati. We walked to Albanian customs, where we were observed sceptic by the border police. While they took their time to assist us, some young Albanian men, who also just arrived from Greece, got verbally punished and intimidated (almost physically) by one of the policemen. Not a very inviting entry. After we handed over 20 euro and saw it vanish in the pocket of the policeman, we could walk on. Our next challenge was to get to the nearest city of Sarandė. We had two options, to step into a van, overloaded with apx. 15 boys who had just been bullied by the border police or try to get a cab. We chose the 2nd, but since there was only one taxi, there was not much to negotiate about. We had to pay the full price the guy asked, in our perception a rip-off. Anyway, the 30 euro ride was worth it, if you take the driver's style into account. With a terminal velocity (broken speed indicator) our Mercedes crossed over the pot-holed sand-'roads'. Sometimes coming to a complete stop, when confronted with a herd of sheep. The driver was not very communicative, except for his non-verbal communication: throwing 90's musictapes [2Unlimited-No Limit (how appropriate)] out of his window.
Favourite spots:
The ancient ruins of Butrint
When we had to cross a river with a very basic ferry (basically: a couple of oil barrels, some wood and a rope) just in front of the archeological site of Butrint, we took our chance to get more for our 30 euro. We arranged to let the driver wait an hour (within the price), for us to get a guided tour through the ancient ruins.
What's really great:
'Exotic' Sarandė
Besides the beauty of the adventure itself, the old part of Gjirokastra was picturesque, The Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) is supposed to be stunning, Sarandė is an exotic contrast and the people are very friendly. reason to return!
Sights:
The room where dictator Enver Hoxha was born.
The Castle.
The Etnographic Museum w.i. the birthhouse of Enver Hoxha.
Wandering through the old town.
Accommodations:
View from our balcony in Hotel Kalemi.
Try to get the Albanian style suite in the Hotel Kalemi in Gjirokastėr, it's exceptionnaly beautiful! (30 euro or 4000 Lekė), overlooking the whole city.
In Sarandė there are a lot of options. we were in Hotel Delfini. Seafront, Corfu view and very clean for only 20 euro.
Nightlife:
The cave of the bull!
You have to go to the only 'hip' place: Cueva de Toro, near the football stadium, downtown. We have seen the 'toro' (the bull) earlier on the Lion's gate of the ancient city of Butrint.
Hangouts:
Get to the old city center for a (turkish) coffee or a raki.
Visit the tavernas in the old city centre. it's like a wild west crossing, a lot of old men sitting in front of the bars, only the horses have been replaced by...obviously: Mercedesses!
Restaurants:
Bye bye Albania. We will definately return.
The Fantazia restaurant has an incredible panoramic terrace.
Other recommendations:
When you're heading for Corfu, definately go to Albania. At least for a day trip to Sarandė and Butrint, or step into the adventure and visit Gjirokastėr or beyond. There's a lot more to explore: the Adriatic coast up to Vlora, Lake Ohrid etc. etc.
Martell, I really enjoyed the terminal velocity reference! It would be terrific to see you expand on this report - I would like to know more about the castle and the ruins!
Eire
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