Tense and uncertain. There is a real feeling of fear. More soldiers and uniforms that you can shake a stick at. People were reluctant to talk to a stranger.
There is an aftenoon CTM bus to the north via Tarfaya,Tan Tan, Goulimine, and Tiznit. It leaves from the CTM office next to the main bank/exchange office in the town. You could also get a place in a shared taxi although some drivers are wary of carrying foreigners.
Favourite spots:
Place Mechouar and it's tents. Highly stylised but a great idea. The green of the football pitch at the stadium was VERDANT.
What's really great:
The Moroccan soldier I met who told me that if the Saharawi want this to be their's it shoudl be. Was he serious?
Sights:
Place Mechouar
Accommodations:
Most of the hotels are full of U.N workers. The Hotel Jodessa is a good basic option and very central. The staff are very helpful too. Hotel Marhaba - average!