My family are from Liverpool in England. One when I asked a friend what's Naples like he said like Liverpool but worse. I was bemused but curious. On top of that any town living under a volcano has just to have some special dimension to its character.
Bus into city centre from the airport was cheap and friendly. We got off in the middle of town (should that read chaos?) and was immediately enveloped in a whirl of people and traffic. First time in a western country I have vendors following me down the street trying to make my buy things.
Favourite spots:
Baia - just outside of town at the Sybilla's cave. Also at Baia are, from myth, the Gates of Hell. The Centro Storico at night.
What's really great:
The noise and the character of the city. Something about the swirl of the traffic and the clear skies.
Sights:
The churches of the Centro Storico
Restaurants:
no no no ... I can't remember the name of an extraordinary restaurant with high quality food and the longest menu I have ever seen