We started our trekking at 9 a.m. The group was 4 persons - apart from us there was a Thai girl and Austrian guy. We had two guides to accompany us. All the way was through the jungle. We had to cross rivers several times and it was a very strenuous walk. It rained the day before and the paths were slippery and steep. There was a lot of mud and leeches were abundant (only 3 bites, fortunately). After dusk we reached Akha village, where we took rest. After having dinner I had massage from an Akha girl. Again I had a chance to sleep in the jungle listening to its sounds when falling asleep - unforgettable experience.
Aug 08, 2009 12:00 AMCrossing to Laos
From Chiang Rai we took the first bus to Chiang Khong (6 a.m.), a border town where you can cross to Laos. It took ca. 2 hours and cost 65 baht. From bus station we took a tuk-tuk to the boat landing (30 baht per person). From there we took a boat across the river (40 baht). At Lao checkpoint on the other bank of the Mekong river my body temperature was measured - they're very much afraid of swine flu. I already had a visa so I only needed to go through the immigration (during weekends they charge $1, 40 baht or 10000 kip extra for processing). It's quite far from the boat landing site to the bus station so you have to take a tuk-tuk (50 baht per person). You can also pay in baht in Laos. It turned out the next bus is at 12:30 p.m. so we had a lot of time to walk around the outskirts of Huay Xai (the border town on Lao side). The road from Huay Xai is sealed and it took 2.5 hrs only to get to Vieng Phoukha. It's a laid-back village in Nam Ha national park from where trekking can be organized. All the guesthouses are very simple and charge $3-5 per twin per night. We were staying at the one with nice bamboo bungalows (no fan, Asian toilet, mosquito nets provided) but with beautiful view over the river. There was also a small terrace and we had our dinner there. A great place to relax. We also arranged trekking for the next day - two days, one night - in Akha village. Other villages are also visited on the way. In Vieng Phoukha the electricity is only available from 7 to 10 p.m. No internet.
Aug 07, 2009 12:00 AMYao, Akha, Lisu, Lahu
These are the names of hilltribes that have villages around Chiang Rai. In the morning we hired a 4WD and a guide through a travel agency in Chiang Rai. It was 2500 baht for the whole day village visits. In total we visited four villages. It's quite commercialised there and the tribespeople in Yao village had even souvenir stands for tourists. Other villages were more genuine. Sometimes local people want money for being photographed or at least want you to buy something if you want their photo. We're also going to visit some villages in Laos and I hope it will be more genuine experience. Nevertheless, it's worth visiting hilltribes of Thailand. Some women (e.g. Akha) still wear traditional clothes and it's not for tourists (I spotted one walking along the road and carring something).
Aug 06, 2009 12:00 AMChiang Rai - the town of temples
After 9-hour flight with Aeroflot, I was very happy to leave the aircraft (can you imagine a long-distance plane with no (!) inflight entertainment - even no music?). I then had to wait at the immigration for an hour or so (queues were very, very long) and finally met my friend Talat at the meeting point at BKK airport. We then took Air Asia flight to Chiang Rai - it was one hour long only. The only way to get to the town from the airport is by taxi (200 baht, fixed price). We're staying here in Orchid Guesthouse (350 baht per twin, A/C). Very clean and centrally located. In the afternoon, in spite of rain we explored the city. There are many temples around and I can't memorize their names (so different from Polish language). We also saw a big group of young monks (or monks-to-be) in orange robes leaving one of themples. We also visited the Hilltribe Muesum to have some insight in the tribes' culture as tomorrow we're going to get some trekking organized.
Aug 05, 2009 12:00 AMAgain to Southeast Asia
My backpack is ready. Today I'm leaving Poland for one month in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. I'm flying to Bangkok with Russian airlines Aeroflot via Moscow. In BKK I'm meeting my travel mate Talat and from this point we'll travel together. Please keep your fingers crossed and you're welcome to follow this travellog. Enjoy!
May 19, 2009 12:00 AMBack to Poland (via Munich instead of Frankfurt)
In the morning we got up early to take some photos of the city before tourists are everywhere. We walked around for 4 hours until 10 a.m. Then we went to the airport. When we arrived it turned out my flight to Frankfurt was delayed by 2.5 hrs, so I quickly got it rescheduled via Munich and in 15 minutes from my arrival at the airport I was already on board. Unfortuantely in Munich I had to wait for 4 hrs for my flight to Warsaw. I landed safely in the capital at 8 p.m. It was a very successful trip and my travelmate Talat turned out to be great company. Hope for another journey together soon! Where to go next?
May 18, 2009 12:00 AMMagnificent Topkapi Palace
We arrived in Istanbul at 10 a.m. Train journey was very comfortable and I could even use the shower (there was only cold water, unfortunately).
Almost the whole day we spent in Topkapi Palace. It's a huge complex and you need at least half a day too see it only superficially. The admission fee is very high - 20 TRY. Another 10 TRY you have to pay for audio guide. Harem is another 15 TRY and audio guide to Harem again 10 TRY. So altogether it's almost 30 EUR! Frankly speaking, audio guides are not necessary. Much more information is given on the information tables. Unfortunately we didn't manage to see the Harem as they closed it as soon as 4 p.m. Had we known we would have visited it first.
In the evening we were walking around Sultanahmet and we went to the Grand Bazaar. It's very turisty now. Can you imagine that they even installed LCD displays there! They spoil the view so much...
May 17, 2009 12:00 AMIn the city of whirling dervishes
The 8 a.m. a bus from Goreme took us to Konya. The journey was 4 hrs and cost 20 lira. Konya has little to offer to tourists but one place is definitely worth a visit - Mevlana Museum tells the story of whirling dervishes and also is devoted to the poet called Rumi. There is the tomb of Rumi and also other interesting graves - all with turbans in the head of the dead person.
According to the guidebook Konya should be a conservative city, but from what we've seen there it is not - many girls and women don't wear headscarves and they wear European clothes instead of long robes covering all their bodies. The city is modern and developing and seemes to be a nice place to live in.
In the evening we took a night train to Istanbul. The train leaves at 9:15 p.m. and arrives in Istanbul Hayderpasa 9:09 a.m. the next day. Sleeper in 2-bed cabin costs less than 60 lira.
May 16, 2009 12:00 AMOver fairy chimneys in a hot-air balloon
Our flight started just after 6 a.m. There were around 15 passengers in the basket. During 1-hour flight we could see Capadocian moonscape from above. It was a nice experience but very turisty and I thought it would be more exeptional. Champagne was served after landing.
After breakfest we explored Goreme Open Air Museum (15 TRY, no students discount). There are many Byzantine churches you can visit. Some of them have very well preserved frescos, especially Karanlik (Dark) Church - you have to pay additional 8 TRY to enter but it's worth the price.
In the afternoon we hiked in the valleys around Goreme and we walked until Pasabagi - the best fairy chimneys are there. Tomorrow in the morning we're leaving Capadocia for Konya (bus 20 TRY) from where we have a night train to Istanbul.
May 15, 2009 12:00 AMAround Capadocia
Our tour started from Goreme at 9:30. On the way we visted several places. The best one in my opisnion was an underground city Derinkuyu. It's a 7-level underground labirynth of rooms and corridors well worth exploring. We also went to Ihlara Valley where we saw old Byzantine churches, some of them with frescoes. All in all it was worth taking this tour thanks to which we saved a lot of time and saw many interesting places. Tomorrow we're going to enjoy a hot-air balloon flight. We have to get up early as the hotel pick-up is at 5:45.