Damascus is a big dusty city - you can notice it as soon as you arrive at the karaj (bus station). There are public buses from the bus terminal to the city center for 10 SYP only so no need to take the taxi. Friendly locals will show you which one to take (it was bus no. 10, I think).
One practical piece of info: leave the hotels in the tourist ghetto recommended in LP guidebooks - they're often full and even if you can find a bed, they're expensive. We're staying in a decent room in Arab Saudi Hotel paying only 1000 per double with shower and toilet attached. Plus the staff are friendly.
The weather wasn't very nice in the afternoon - it was cloudy and even I could feel a few drops of rain. It improved before dusk, after we left the National Museum (admission fee 150 SYP, 10 - for ISIC card holders). It has a vast collection of archeological exhibits from different periods. When in Syria it's a must.
We also explored the souq and a market where only locals buy - we stocked up on fruit there. Internet here costs 60 SYP per hour and can be easily found in the tourist ghetto.
May 03, 2009 12:00 AMThe ruins of Palmyra
Again early wake-up before 6. We wanted to see the sunrise over the ancient city of Palmyra. The rising sun gives the ruins pink hue - a great view!
Palmira is sprawling on a quite big area and there's a lot to explore. We've seen the temple of Bel (the most important god of Palmyra) and the colonnade - which are the most magnificent sights in the city. There are also interesting tombs around. There are two types of them - some bodies were buried in underground tombs and some in towers. Some of them are even 4 stories high and could accommodate even 400 bodies. We also climbed the citadel hill to see the citadel and for the view of the whole city from above. Entries to most sites vary from 75 to 150 SYP, if you have ISIC card it's only 5-10 SYP.
May 02, 2009 12:00 AMKrak de Chevaliers
The wake-up today was early - 5:30. We wanted to see the sunrise over Hama's norias. After that we took a minibus to Homs - it's only 40 minutes ride (50 SYP per passenger with a bagpack). Actually there are few interesting thingts in Homs, and the budget hotels are very grim. We decided not to stay there. Having left the backpack at one of the hotels we took a minibus to Krak des Chevaliers, an excellent Crusaders castle. You need at least 2 hours to explore it a bit.
The minibus and bus stations are several kilometres from the city centre so you need to get there by public bus no. 1. Ignore the hassle from taxi drivers.
In Syria minubuses leave when full so we had to wait almost one hour each way. Then we took a bus to Palmyra. It was 105 SYP only. After two hours we arrived in Palmyra. The touts here are not as bad as LP says, especially if you've been to Morocco. We're staying here at Hotel Sun (only 500 SYP per double). Tomorrow we're going to see the ruins.
May 01, 2009 12:00 AMThe Norias of Hama
In the morning we wanted to get a minibus to Qala'at Samaan but due to Friday which is a holiday in Syria services are very irregular and we would have to take a taxi which is too expensive for us. That's why we decided to go directly to Hama by train. A train ride in Syria is a great experience itself - especially the process of buying and then validating your ticket. First, you have to buy it, then you register (or validate, I don't know) it at the police office at the station and then you have to register in another counter. All the procedure takes at least half an hour. The train was very comfortable and after less than 2 hours ride we arrived in Hama. We stay here at Cairo Hotel (1200 SYP per double, LP says 500...). We were walking in the city a lot. We saw almost all of 17 norias - old water wheels that supplied aqueducts with water for irrigation. We also visited Hama Museum and Azem Palaca (recommended).
The kids are nice here. That say hello to us and want to take pictures of them. Also nice are the adults very helpful and friendly. Nobody wants money for help. Totally different to my experiences from Morocco.
Apr 30, 2009 12:00 AMAround Aleppo
We're still based in Aleppo. Today we took a minibus to Kafr Nabl. Prices went up significantly since the book was published year ago. The trip costs 70 SYP instead of 35. We started walking towards Serjilla - one of the Dead Cities and we were soon offered a lift (not for free, of course - 25 per person; travelling on the back of a truck - unforgettable. It pays to have your international student's card - in the sights you pay only 10 instead of 75 or even 150 SYP. After exploring Serjilla we started our walk back to Kafr Nabl and this time we were given a free lift by a pharmacist from the town. He spoke a little Russian so I could communicate with him.
In Kafr Nabl we hired a car with a driver to get us to Apamea and then back to Ma'arat an-Nu'aman from where we took a minibus to Aleppo. Apamea is a great archeological site with hundreds of columns which is very impressive. Worth a visit.
Internet in Aleppo is very slow and relatively slow - 100 SYP/hr but you have no choice.
Apr 29, 2009 12:00 AMExploring Halep (Aleppo)
We arrived in Aleppo at 9 a.m. We were waken up at the border to go through the customs and then we slept without being interrupted until we reached Aleppo. We're staying at Hotel Somar (1200 SYP per double). We were exploring the city today - the citadel, the Grand Mosque, the souk and we walked a lot. The entrance fee to many sights is 150 SYP (ca. 3 USD) but with an international students card they will cut it to as low as 10 SYP. We also explored Al-Jdaida dictrict and found catholic and orthodox churches there. Tomorrow we plan to visit the dead cities and maybe to see something else if time allows.
Apr 28, 2009 12:00 AMTo the Middle East
Today my next journey started. The destination is Middle East. This time I'm not travelling alone - my travelmate is Talat, whom I know from Globo. We want to see Syria, Lebanon and Turkey in the upcoming three weeks. I was flying from Warsaw to Istanbul via Munich. I met Talat in Istanbul and from there we travel together. In the afternoon we visited the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia and in the evening we took a flight to Adana and then a night train to Aleppo, Syria. The train is cheap (only 35 YTL) and inside it looks like a train from collonial times with fake mosaics on walls and floor and original lamps. Nice experience.
Nov 13, 2008 12:00 AMBack to Poland
The flight was in Gdansk 10 minutes ahead of time, so I cought a bus to the city centre and even managed to catch a train to Warsaw at 9:25 (I had expected I would have to take the 11:35 train). I was to tired after spending a night at the airport to do any sightseeing in Gdansk. I slept on both the plane and the train, so the journey didn't seem very long although it was. The train ride from Gdansk to Warsaw takes 5 hours now due to a big overhaul of the rail tracks.
Nov 12, 2008 12:00 AMAntwerp and Brussels
This day I devoted to two other Belgian cities that were my must-sees on this short trip. First I went to Antwerp with my friend and we walked around the town a lot. The trainstation in Antwerp is just beautiful. Now, thanks to its unique architecture, it's one of my favourite train stations. We also went to Rubens' House. I'd like to live in a house like this! We also visited several churches (go to the cathedral). Again we had excellent weather with only a few clouds, which doesn't seem to be very usual for Belgium. Antwerp, as it is located closer to the sea, is much more windy - a cap and a scarf is not a bad idea.
The afternoon I spent in Brussels and my friend went to Koln as she had a flight to Poland from there the next day. I spent this time around Grand Place (Grote Markt) admiring the architecture. I also bought some pralines, as Belgian chocolade is believed to be one of the best in the world. In the evening I went to the airport in Charleroi. I have a flight to Gdansk tomorrow early in the morning and the only option for me would be to take a taxi - too expensive.
Nov 11, 2008 12:00 AMBruges and Ghent in one day
These two cities aren't very large and they are located quite close to Brussels. It's a national holiday here today, so I was given a weekend ticket (return for free). Here I met two friends of mine and we're doing the sightseeing together. We were very lucky because it only rained when we were on a train and it immediately stopped when we got off. What we focused on in these cities was architecture - very different from what I know from other European countries. I liked the canals and in autumn when trees are very colorfull the towns look very picturesque. Belgian food is excellent too, but quite expensive when compared to Central and Eastern Europe. Belgium is great for art freaks museums and churches are full works of famous painters and sculptors.
