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You can lose everything, but nobody will take away what you saw and what you experienced...
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Sep 19, 2024 12:00 AM Ready for Kailash kora?
Kora is 3-days religious trail around Mt Kailash. It requires 2 overnight stays in the primitive dormitory accommodation on the route, in poor sanitary conditions and limited food offered. First day it is 20 km medium walk to little monastery. Second day there will be difficult climb to the pass, third day - easy walk down. For Buddhists is religious event, but why tourists are making kora? It doesn't offer any super-extra views because you walk too close to the summit. Probably they want to add one more famous trek to the list of their achievements. On the day one you start in the dark at 7.00 and walk to the park gate, where you pay for entry ticket. Then you walk along many mani walls, stupas and prayer weels to Kangyi chorten where it is possible to rent a horse for you or even yak for your baggage. Happy climbing!
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Sep 19, 2024 12:00 AM Famous Mount Kailash
There are few mountains in the world who has spiritual meaning for people. Do you remember my climbing of Mt Fuji in Japan or Ayers Rock in Australia? Here, on Tibet they have 6600 meters high Mt Kailash.
The road G219 is rather bumpy, forcing often the driver to reduce speed. The base for 3-days walk around Kailash is little town of Darchen. Bulldogers removed old houses making the place for the new hotels on approach it is worth to make stopover at the entrance to the town. If it is clear you will see on front pf you copula-like summit, overlooking other ones. This is magic Kailash!
Buddha beliewers and tourists are coming here to walk
3-days kora - walk around the mountain.
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Sep 17, 2024 12:00 AM 510 kms of mountain roads
We departed today from Saga before sunrise - at 8 am. My companions were not happy, but it is a fistance and ee wanted te reach the target before sunrise. On the outskirts of the town we started the climb to the first pass - 4800 m. Unfortunately the pases has names in Chinese only, no maps so you cannpt recognize the names. Then we went down to the valley with many yak herds. Then drive up again and a kind of mini desert overlooking upper Brahmaputra River. When sun arrived there were many opportunities to photohraph snow- capped mountains. We entered in the afternoon West Tibet province called Neri (in Tibetan) or Ali (in Chinese). Strong control again... When we climbed next pass on the left side I saw a big lake Manasarovar. Old ladies on the car park were selling dried fish from this huge lake... 6 pm. Are we already 10 hours on the road? Fortunately I am already adjusted to the high altilitude, no headache, no coughing... Only one more drive to Darchen! That's Himalaya!
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Sep 16, 2024 12:00 AM To the Western Nepal...
I woked up early- at 6 am in the dark and cold to be ready to see the sunrise on Everest. Unfortunately it was covered by clouds. Only 1 hour later I had a chance to see the northern face during maybe 5-6 minutes. We took an eco- bus (45 min) to get eut of the park. Our Tibetan driver was waiting to drive us along Tingri Road through the sunny landscapes of Himalaya. Controls, controls again... Tingri West is a road hub. After lunch we were heading west again. For me it is completely new area to explore. Only few years ago Chinese built here paved road heading to the snow-covered peaks. If you are lucky you wil see Shishapangma among the others. Very impressive stopover we maid on the Lake Pelkhu-tso. It is unspoiled turquoise beauty... Then two passes around 4600 m each with panoramic views...
We reached small town of Saga only at 6 pm. After broken previous night I need a shower and good rest. Good night from Himalaya!
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Sep 15, 2024 12:00 AM Everest North Face
In 1987 after 10 days trek from Jiri, Nepal I saw the southern face of Mt Everest. Since then I was thinking about seeing the north face of the highest mountain. The dream came true today! The access to Chinese EBC (Everest Base Camp) is not so difficult. The biggest problem is to arrange all formalities, get permits and rent a car with the driver. Our car started from Shigatse at 8.30. We reached the target only at 6.30 pm after climbing two 5000 plus passess. Chinese EBC is disappointing!
They told me we will sleep in the tent on the level of 5200 m. Yes, but it is not a single tent - it is primitive tent city for several hundreds people. I will sleep having one ski-style dark toilet 50 m away, and without sink to wash the hands and face!
And you will see Everest from the distance of 1 kmor more! Anyway the view of the mountain from rebuilt Rongbook Monastery was impressive! Now I need to survive in such a conditions and night cold till morning! And what a satisfaction! I saw also The North Face!
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Sep 14, 2024 12:00 AM Lakes, glaciers, monasteries...
Already at 8 am, after Chinese breakfast we embarked our minibus and started to climb roads to the south. There are 12 people on our expedition group from US, Canada, Vietnam, Australia, New Zealand and China of course. Tibetan driver smiles but doesn't know even single English word. The young guide speaks 3 languages but prefere Chinese to English...
After passing the airport we were climbing the high green ridge to 4000 m plus. On the other side of the ridge there was great view of turquoise Lake Yamdrok. Few hour later I found myself even higher - on the level 5020 m - under impressive Karola Glacier. Nice chorten was built under the glacier - many people enjoy the scenery here. In the late afternoon we reached historic city of Gyantse. First there was a visit to Security Bureau to get one more permit. Got it! Then in the strong sun we walked the beautiful Tibetan monastery. Tired we reached our hotel in Shigatse already after dark. Great day!
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Sep 13, 2024 12:00 AM Enjoying Jokhang. Climbing to Potala...
One more sunny day in the capital of Tibet. In the morning I visited the holy temple of Jokhang. Reservation is required, then security and passport control... Crowd of prosteating people in front of the main gate... Sorry, their clothes are different from these I saw here 37 years ago... Great view of golden towers from the main courtyard. Only here and on the roof galery you can take pictures. Crowd of local people throwing banknotes in front of holy figures. Many of them brought yak butter to add it to the candles. Unusual atmosphere!
Later they took me to the bottom of Potala - winter palace of Dalai Lamas. Controls, controls... Then you have to climb zigzaging staircase cobbled by irregular stones up and up. Finally you are on the terrace for religious festivals and soon you will enter the interior. Only part of the palace is open for visitors: on the few different levels connected by steep, narrow steps there are quarters and stupas of 7th and 8th Dalailama and reception hall of two last heads of Tibetan Buddhism. Years ago I saw more... But the view of the mountains is still excellent and worth the sweaty climb!
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Sep 12, 2024 12:00 AM Sera monastery, but not only...
Imagine that they do not have a city map in the hotel, but also our guide can do nothing! Yesterday on the warm evening I took a long walk - first to Potala Palace, than to Jokhang temple... Memories alived! But on the way back I got lost in this big city and was forcrd to ask local people for help...
Today after breakfast (it is included, but do not expect bread or rolls on tha table) they took us to the old town to Tibet artisanal center. They explained Tibetan alphabet, we were printing popular sentence "om mani padme hum" using carved wooden block. I got my name caligraphed in Tibetan language! Then, in the afternoon we were visiting 15th century's Sera Monastery built at the bottom of the mountains. Nicely restored it has two assembly halls with many Buddhas. But something special here is afternoon dispute of the monks in the garden. I have been in Sera already twice, but is is still great attraction: it is alive - local people are coming here to pray!
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Sep 11, 2024 12:00 AM Lhasa - 3650 m above the sea!
At 6 am I was already in the terminal 3 of Beijing Capital airport. Having my boarding pass ready and cabin luggage only i went directly to security. Aha... They check my boarding and tried to expain something in Chinese. Nobody speaks English) One of them was repeating "for Lhasa, for Lhasa". What I need for Lhasa? I came to the conclusion: Tibet Travel Permit! No permit, no embarcation! Fortunately I received my permit only yesterday on my Beijing hotel. Ufff... They stamped my boarding and I went to screening. Water not allowed! Take of your power bank and your video camera!. I did! The airbus 319 plane was already waiting at the gate ready for 4 hours flight to the capital city of Tibet.
Turbulences from the beginning... Warm ham sandwich for breakfast. Flight attendants are nice but they don't want to be photographed! In Lhasa elegant terminal there is no control. The shuttle bus took me to the city. It is 1 hour drive on the highway. Beautiful mountain landscapes. Bridge on Brahmaputra River. And the long column of military trucks. Finally control gate (they
check permit again) and in the distance I see on the hill the famous Potala Palace. Third time in my life! Welcome to Lhasa! My breath is short, I have a headache. But the sun is shining! I have to adjust to the altitude!!
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Sep 10, 2024 12:00 AM Bejing after 18 years...
We landed in Beijing in the late morning. Capital Airport Terminal 3 is imposing! Shuttle bus took me to the hotel. I left there my backpack and took a subway to the central Beijing from Terminal 2 deep underground. Such a journey requires at least one change. First you pay 25 juans for "airport express" to arrive to the downtown. Then net of ordinary lines will take you for 3-4 juans to the destination of your choice.
For the first time I have been to Beijing in 1987. Last time - 18 years ago. It is different Beijing now!
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